Eddie-G-Force

Okay let's try the photo again!

Hi, I need some help. I have a Racer Brown SS-24 grind my brother bought in the early 80's??? We put it in a stock 76 L28 FI Z, and it didn't perform so great, he kept getting busted by the Utah smog police so he replaced it with a stock one (Which ran stronger). Fast forward 30 something years, and I'm installing it in a SU carb'ed L24 with a N-47 head. Yes, he kept the thicker lash pads too! Only took about a year to find them! I installed the cam, set TDC with a piston stop, & degree'd the cam in with a new timing set in the #1 dowel position, and I keep coming up with a 111 deg. intake cl. Here's my questions. Is the 108 on the RB cam ID ( back-end) the Intake CL, or the lobe separation? Intake CL seems more useful. Valve lift is ~.450" Second Question: I set the intake lash to .010" is this correct to degree the cam? Or should I go to zero lash, for CL I don't think it would make a difference. Dowel positions 2 & 3 would just advance the cam more making it worse. Okay I was wrong, position 2 @ 3 advanced the cam, thus the intake CL deg got smaller. Position #2 looked the best at 109. I've attached photo of the cam. I wouild still like to know the cam timing specs of this cam if anybody can help me out. Ed G.

I think the R200 4.11 units only came in Turbo 200SX cars. You need to do some searching on this site. If your 78Z is a MT car you'll need a R200 differential unit (bigger and different axles than R180 automatic car unit) If your car has a R200 3.54 diff. and you are lucky enough to find a R200 4.11. It is a easy bolt it process. Just pop/pry out the axles and pop yours in. You may need to swap the pinion flange with the one from your existing unit. Your speedo will be off (in error) Maybe 200sx speedo gears swap too? Why not use a 3.90 unit from a 81-83 280zx. There are about a zillion more of them. Ed G.

Hi, I'm needing six of the 2 mm.longer Intake valves from a N42 75-76 280Z head. Good used valves would be fine. I'm building a budget shaved P79 head to dyno against a N42 head. I was going to use my N42 valves but I want to build up both heads. I cc'd the N42 at 41cc, and my cutdown P79 at 44cc. If your going with Stainless, or you have a good set without a use for them I could use them. I'm still working on my 240z Maxton Speed run car. Not looking to spend a lot. Thanks, Ed Gawrych

Check the rear brakes. Enix187, How long was it parked? I've bought seven or eight 280z's over the years that have been sitting under trees or in a field for years, and the brake shoes were frozen to the drums. Another car had the fiction material sheared off (fell off) the metal backing and it would jam locking in one direction only. Just a thought.

Drag Tracks should show this to the DA spectators that bunch up on both sides of the starting line in the direct path of the clutch grenade. I've seen one Chevelle blow a clutch assemble in person but it happens so fast, and in the low light of night racing, nobody knows the risk. Those of you turning serious rpm's may want to consider added a scatter shield. Does anyone make one to fit a stock 240z?

Okay I'm not doing so good on my "240 to Maxton" march . I picked up a extra 71z for parts and the owner threw this tranny in the deal. I've search threads for an hour but I didn't find a transmission decoder (maybe with pictures). Is this from a early comp. Z or a truck? Shifter is from my 72 4 speed appears to fit properly. Is there a mod. to remove the flange to use my 72 driveshaft? Thanks Ed G.

Thanks Guys. I pretty much knew the answer before the post, but wanted confirmation. Just to be clear the previous owner paid good money to have this head screwed up by "professionals". Honestly I can't take credit for this one. I hope these pictures prevent someone else from doing the same. I wonder why all the work, and then not smoothing the giant blob on one side of the port. No need to reply on that one. I guess it's on the my P79 shave.

I need some help with what to do with a N47 head with the exhaust liners removed. I purchased a co-workers 72 240Z super basket case. Sort of a barn find. He started restoring it 15 years ago and gave up (after totally disassembling everything). The "deal" came with a reworked N47 head with a valve job, the exhaust liners removed, and an interesting porting job was done at some Z performance shop in upstate SC. The intake ports look okay. But the exhaust ports are totally raged where the liners were. Below the valve seat is a 2MM. sharp knife edge wall, I can cut this down but there will be no short side radius. I was thinking of having the valve guides pressed out and smoothing the bottom of the bowl. Take a look at the pictures. Should I salvage the valve train and toss this mess??? I want to build a L28 flat top motor that can run on 93 octane. I also have a used P79 head which I'm thinking about shaving 2mm. and putting the longer N47 valves in Has anyone been successful in building horsepower with a liner-less N47 head? I'm trying to build this car for the Maxton TSC NC event in April 2010, but that's another post. Thanks.

I hope you bought the 350 & T56 combo. With a T56 you could easily run the 3.90 rear end. If you don't like the rev's you could easily swap someone on this site for a 3.54 unit. I had a 94 Formula with a t56 and 3.42 gears. The car needed more gear. Good Luck on your project.

I had a 305 with the bigger 1.84 valve "ho" heads, a performer intake, and a 212/212 comp cam, hooked to a TH350 and 3.54 gears. It was useless. It had a little more low end torque and no top end. I liked the L6 better, I replaced it with a flat top, vortec headed 355. At least twice the power. Don't waste your time on the 305. Go rough up your "friend" to get you a 350, or your money back.

Thanks for the post, I thought I was the only crazy or stupid guy on this site. I put a "Wanted" add on this site a couple of days ago for a set of S&S headers, and it's now "Sold"! How do you sell a wanted item!