traininvain

I got a set of Nismo 370z seats in without issue - not that they're any different than base 370 seats. Its a bit difficult to utilize the reclining lever without a bit of finger tip trickery though.

One of the nice things about taking a long time for a build is you can really scoop up deals and aren't forced to track down parts as you need them. I had been on the lookout for a larger T28 turbo, was thinking of a GT28 but then this minty fresh 2871R .64AR came up locally for really cheap and I scooped her up - Greddy/Denso 720CC topfeeds to feed the beast Found out later that topfeeds are low impedance and you need to run resistors on them or you'll smoke the injector drivers in your SR20 ecu. Caught that oversight just in time

For the head I went with BC springs and retainers and BC stage 2 264 cams. A subset of the BC retainers ended up having the wrong inner diameter and the valve stem keepers wouldn't fit. Even though they were second hand BC next-day shipped me replacements no charge - great service Thankfully I had the sense to keep all the head innards in order when I disassembled Bled lifters - but then ended up having to re-bleed them again later after the motor sat for over a year Shimming the head was one of the areas I was least comfortable with - I couldn't find the tool that used to be made which sat in the SR lifter wells, so I made something from harbor freight goodies that ended up working out well enough but was difficult to use Tomei 1.5mm headgasket = more than I paid for the block haha All together -

Engine build actually started before I found the car itself - found a deal on an SR20det that was packed away in boxes and rags. Initially I had intended to do a fairly stock build, and put a considerable amount of time into getting every bolt and hose accounted for, cleaned, and bagged up. It ended up that I utilized virtually nothing from this initial motor purchase - I think I used the head, valves, and the tranny along with a few misc sensors that seemed to be in decent condition. Everything was dec-greased and sorted - Then I found a crazy deal on an already-worked block locally. Bored .5mm over, decked, cleaned and ready to go. The block ended up being from an S14 (65F) bottom end so there were some minor issues to work through with the older not vvt head which was from an S13 (52F) motor. Mainly additional oil passages that needed to be blocked, and the front cover / oil pump don't share the same bolt pattern. Which of course meant I needed new pistons for the 86.5mm bore . . . and new pistons need new rods of course.

Looking for the link that runs from the pedal to the throttle lever, through the firewall. The plastic component to mine cracked and it doesn't want to stay on the ball anymore . . . Prompt payment, reachable via pm or nate.p.holmes@gmail.com

Finally got my project on the road after a long few years! Though I know it's decidedly less enjoyable for someone to post an entire build at once, I didn't have the patience to upload pictures along the way so that's all I have. As with most things I took way too many pictures at the start - and then have only a handful to cover months of work later. Thanks to all those who helped - both those here who lent a hand with the car when I needed it and those here on Hybrid who hooked me up with parts and advice when needed. Bunch of bulk pictures up here: If some of the build looks familiar, I did start a thread a while back but didn't bother to update and I think most of the links are broken anyway. Figure it will take a few posts to put the pictures up, and that may take me a bit, so in summary: Over the last two years this collection of parts which was supposedly an SR20: And this rusted out 73 that spent 40 years in Syracuse NY and was probably not worth calling a parts car: Has been brought back to life Work was made a bit slower by lack of a real garage, but my roundtop held up through winter and all. Burned a lot of propane through the winters, learned how to weld (and got too much experience), bought a lot of new tools, pretended I knew how to paint, and spent countless hours carting crap in and out of my basement to the tent. Victory!

Thank you for the answer John! I guess I'll stay where it is . . . Thanks for the ofer TeamZ, don't toss them out just yet! On a side note I went with 175 front / 200 rear springs with the ground controls and they seem a bit on the stiff side to me in a quick ride around. Next teir down maintaining about the same front / rear ratio would be to get a set of 160's for the front and move the 175's to the rear. Is that too soft? No track work, just built it to enjoy around town and such.

Actually got it up where I wanted on the current setup, but I had to preload the springs to get the height (ie the springs are a bit compressed on the shock even when the vehicle load isn't on them). I suppose this makes the height loss when the vehicle weight compresses them less so its up a bit more. Is that a terrible idea? Cloud drive comes free with Amazon Prime membership now-a-days. It has some cool features and its seems faster than photobucket plus they give you plenty of space.

Looking for a pair of the taller 260z/280z rear strut insulators if anyone had a set! PM would work but an email to nate.p.holmes@gmail.com would be even better. Thanks -

So I screwed up a bit. I sectioned the rear strut tubes to fit a front length strut when I did my coils, and now it sits too low for me up in Massachusetts. Shes gotta go back up about an inch. Rear is at max height in this picture (also I put my flares a bit lower than I should which is making it a bit worse tbh. Interestingly I sectioned the fronts as well but they're just fine, I can adjust up and down in a reasonable rang. https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/TpWTJDqaS5v8cgWxqNtTYEYAYeXtfi3iBrNWuicWbcA?ref_=cd_share_link_copy I see my options as the following (flames accepted.): 1. Get original length shocks and either refab the rear or find new rear strut tubes to fab off. Lots of work, don't have parts, lots of money. Will probably do this in the winter, but I'd like to get it on the road for the rest of the summer as its the end of a 2 year project. 2. Does there exist a spacer I could run for the top? Would only have to be an inch. Something like this but that fits my the Z (feel free to laugh). http://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-F150-2-5-Front-Leveling/dp/B00I5054M6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=16GD4BS43388VDP056HV 3. The 280z rear insulator appears to be about an inch taller than the 240z one! Is it offset in a way such that it would actually raise my height in the rear a bit? It appears to be . . . is this hoping for too much? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4382 Obviously not at that price but would it work? 4. I could bring the flares up a bit - I rub on the flares, not on the actual edge where I cut the fender back. Did I put the flares significantly lower than most folks do? Thanks for reading - I can't really bring the front down as I don't have a ton of oil pan clearance on the SR swap due to just how it seems to sit with the mckinny mounts. Plus I like a little bit of rake to the car, and right now its either dead even or the back might even be down a bit.

Almost done with my car and realize one of the doors I bought isn't a 240 door but rather a 260 which apparently my old regulator doesn't mount to. Looking for the one like this: http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/260ZWindowRegulator001.jpg with the spring on the opposite side of the handle crank . . . I can be reached by PM or faster by email at nate.p.holmes@gmail.com

Paying more than you'd imagine, need something in the next few weeks

Bumppp really need to find one. Doesn't have to be mint just no rot

I think anything before the latch design was changed in 77? will work. Don't care about year as long as it works, need a clean straight shell with little to no rust. I have all glass & mech but wouldn't be opposed to buying a whole unit. I expect to pay shipping to East Coast. nate.p.holmes@gmail.com is better contact than PM but I will check PM. Thank you -

I used one of the small lamps that was actually the backlight for the original 240z gauges (read about 20ohms). Hooked that up to the second smaller wire off the alt, other side to positive. This brought my idle alternator voltage from 16.X down to 14.7 so all is well now. Seeing as that works I'll probably pick up a 1-2watt 20ohm resistor and be done with it. Big wire of the 2 pin plug to live, small wire to live through a bulb or resistor (20ohms worked for me, if you use a resistor use something that can handle a bit of current). Like many people I'm running a full custom wiring job and aftermarket gauges. We don't have the luxury of our car "having a charge lamp circuit that will do the job". My comment was intended to be helpful to that crowd as I was having trouble finding the info I needed. Here's a picture of my hack-job of spare bulbs and resistors, for the kind gentleman above