jeffer949

Save your money. Unless your looking for over 400 hp you dont need forged pistons. I believe people have even gone over that mark. You do need to look at the rest of the pistons to make sure they are ok and if your bore is good. Just buy a new single piston or find a used one. Ive broken a few cylinder number 5 skirts in my day from being young and not wise on tunning. Hone the cylinders and put new rings in and let her eat. No need to go crazy on an engine that will likely never see the benefits from the expensive pistons. I may be wrong but with the questions you asked initially on if you could run the piston like this im guessing your new to engine building and are on a budget and wont be adding enough supporting mods to make really big power.

This means YOU!!!

JSM Message me!!! Well nvm I guess you cant.

have you done any tuning after you fixed your firing order? 2 cylinders not getting spark at the right time will dump alot of fuel into the exhaust and your wideband will read rich. How did you mount the crank angle sensor? That actually looks like an easy way to get a crank signal for any standalone also.

I dont have any source for them. I do have a direction you can start searching though. Years ago I remember a post from Tony D Talking about this manifold and saying that someone could likely make the bellows from a Mercedes Diesel work. Not bolt on but you could make them work. Now keep in mind that this post im thinking about was likely 10+ years ago but its at least a direction to go towards. Some search terms that will likely help is "euro Manifold" as thats what alot of people call it.

We are fine with you doing what your doing. Shoot I'm happy for you. Those components sound great. But why be so negative towards those of us who would rather spend money differently. I bought my whole car for 500 bucks. I am financially stable and I still try to build my car as cheap as possible. Its just what I like to do. This is a cool idea to get Auto trans control.

And the price just wen way up.

So. Initially I saw this and I was like... Why?? Seems a standalone like speeduino or Megasquirt would likely be easier/cheaper. Something hit me this morning that this makes this super desirable. AUTO TRANSMISSION CONTROL!!! I am building a 1984 maxima wagon that Ive turbo'ed with stock 280zxt components and a standalone ecu. I was planning on doing a 5 speed swap. But im contemplating sticking with an auto as the foot box is really small and Maybe im getting old. Finding info and a transmission that I can build to handle any power is super hard. With running this ecu. You could run a 4l60e or 4l80e Etc and control it with the stock ecu. I wonder how cruise control would work with the DBW system also.. Now I'm interested.

Hello everyone. I'm currently in the process of building a 1984 maxima wagon. No not a Z but it s a L-series engine. It came with the same Fuel injected as the late model 280zx's. Now Ive turbo'ed the car and I have a stand alone ECU. This is a daily driver for me and I want to keep it as fume free as possible and the other benefits of a functional EVAP system. I have the canister that came with the car that has the 3 ports on top. Dist VC, Purge, and fuel tank. I have no issues where those would go if I was still NA but with a turbo It seems Unwise to pressurize the system. I look at the FSM for the 280zxt and it has 4 ports. Does anybody have any experience or recommendations? Id like to use my stock canister if possible.

MONZTER, Great to see you back. I loved seeing your manifold project back in the day. I marveled in your skills and machining capabilities. While I can humbly say I couldn't design what your making, somehow i find myself in possession of tools that could actually make most of the parts. Engine Lathe, Welder, CNC Router(not a mill but it can take small cuts in aluminum. Not that Im proficient in any of them but My point is just having the tools has changed my perspective. When I watched you design the plenum back in the day it was unattainable. Now, My brain goes, Hrmmm how many days would it take to mill that on my cnc router? LOL. Thanks for bringing some fresh thinking to the board. Honestly your z31 rear hub conversion seems so simple(not simple or easy, I understand that) that it makes you wonder why hasnt this been done before. Thanks sharing your journey with us.

I pop in every now and again. No Z right now but Im building a 1984 maxima Wagon that Ive turbo'ed. I made it to one. Wasn't it called DNI at one point. I was in my 1974 260Z with a l28et swap. I was driving from Daytona beach. I think I had blown up my engine the week before or weeks before. Did a mad rush to get it done. I was planning on getting a hotel the night before but ran into issues getting the car running. Turned out that my friend stabbed my distributor wrong and my cas was way wrong etc. Finally figured it out late at night. Probably around 12am or so. buttoned it up and headed North. Made it just in time for the meet and great at the hotel. Gabe Wigen was there, Rick(speedy) was there. The red RB26 z was there. soilous?? I had "upgraded my turbo to a used HX30 holset which didnt work out. I entered the drag race comp they had. I had never been down a drag strip before then. I won the whole event...... Because every person I raced red lighted..... Last run of the day my turbo blew up and the impeller was seizing up by hitting the housing. I drove home with it that way and about half way home it self clearanced itself and it started making boost again. My prize money is what bought me my He351cw turbo and intercooler and injectors. Fun times.

I Ran it with the internal waste gate. I had the hole bored till it was just smaller than the flapper disk. It worked but I did experience some boost creep when I was pushing 20psi. Since then I have seen people make a bigger flapper out of an exhaust valve and then bore the hole accordingly. I would say you need to upgrade everything if you want to push a he351cw. you would need full stand alone. bigger injectors, and the driveline is more dependent on how you drive. if you only ever roll into the power it can last. If your clutch kicking under power stuff will snap.

Hello everyone. Im in the middle of adding a turbo to my 1984 Maxima Wagon. Im using the stock manifold and turbo and I bought the stock DP thinking I had read it would fit. Well it does not. It hits my steering shaft. No big deal, Ill just make a DP. Does anybody have the drawing for the flange? I know its different then other T3's 15 years ago or so there was a group buy on cnc laser/plasma cut stainless steel flanges which I had one but then sold. So I'm assuming the drawing is out there. I can draw it up but if someone has it I can send it to my friend and have him cut one out for me while I'm at work. Thanks for your help

Understandable.

That was my understanding also. I guess I was thinking this was going to be a break out the tig and weld up the ports type job. I

Cool to see where this goes. I have my 84 maxima engine apart right now prepping it for turbocharging. It has the L24e in it and has the mn47 head. Looks like there is some low hanging fruit on the head. Will be cool to see what you come up with using your friends software. I was curious how hard it would be to remove the liners. Probably not worth it for my HP goals. (That Im going to stick to and not get greedy) (I promised my wife)(Really!!!) Also. What are your thoughts on the steel liners and boost? I know people have done it but has anybody ever seen any negatives to it?

Has anybody that has added a turbo to a late model 280zx with the small plenumed intake manifold seen any severe adverse effects? I'm going to be milling the injector pockets on the intake to accept 14mm injectors and if there is a major drawback id rather find a 75-80 intake and mill that rather than do it twice.

Sorry I did switch to the AEM trigger wheel away from the stock 360 slot wheel.

Not my first go around. Just been 10ish years since ive messed with a turbo L-series. Or any L-series. Or any project car for that matter. My old 260z was L28et swapped with MS and a holset HE351cw. Big injectors, Big intercooler, ZG flared. 240sx transmission swapped, z31 lsd diff. 280zxt cv axles. 12.8 at 110mpg on street tires at 14psi because my clutch was slipping(normally ran 20psi) You know, how you built a fast car cheap 15 years ago...... Cam and crank signal are through a Nissan Optical CAS from a Ka24e out of a D21 truck that I modified to use the stock NA oil pump shaft. The car is running currently but not well due to 2 pretty clogged up injectors. So that part is taken care of. I just wanted another set of eyes on what I'm doing to double check. Speeduino is similar to MegaSquirt but its all open source and is being currently developed. I understand why DIYautotune needs to charge so much to stay in business. The price point has gotten so high that your getting close to more robust standalones. Haltec, Maxxecu, fast, Holley etc. My speeduino was under 200 bucks. another 100 for the wideband from 14point7. It uses tunerstudios as an tuning interface just like MS does. Thanks for looking it over. Ill post a follow up once its up and going.

Well Here is hoping I havent missed anything.

Hi everyone. Im currently in the process of building a 1984 maxima wagon. I am turbo‐ing the stock l24e for now till I can find and machine a turbo engine to fit a from sump. I know the l24e crank is weaker but I'm not looking for 400hp. 180-200will be fine for now. Below is my set up and curious if I'm missing something. Stock L24e. Mn47 head. Compression is 170psi across all cylinders Ecu is a speeduino stand alone runing batch fire fuel and wasted spark on 6 individual LS truck coils. 14point7 wideband 52lb high z 14mm injectors. Billet dash 8 rail. Aeromotive adjustable FPR Running the stock 5/16 feed and return lines which should be fine for my hp goals I think New 280zx turbo fuel pump Stock l28et turbo manifold, turbo, and down pipe. I have the oil feed sorted out. Just need to have a line made. Stock intake which is the same as a late 280zx small plenum intake(curious if this will be an issue) Stock auto transmission till I can manual swap it. Things I think I probably should change but have not addressed yet are switching to a turbo oil pump. And I need to switch to a colder spark plug. I know this is a high compression engine but it is the mn47 head which is a high quench head which helps with detonation. I can wire in a flex fuel sensor if I need to run e85 or e30. Both are everywhere around me. Any thing Im missing or words of advice i would appreciate it. Thanks

I emailed you also @Mayolives

What I mean by wont drive is if you give it gas under load it stumbles and coughs. In park you can get it to rev up decently but only if you slowly apply throttle. Yes the Levi oi us owner has messed with all kinds of things. Chts ohms out correctly and so does the maf. He had all emissions stuff take off the intake manifold but I've put it all back on correctly I believe.

Hi been a while since I've posted on here. I just bought a 1984 maxima wagon. It has the l24e in it. The efi system is the same as a 81-83 280zx. The person I bought it from works for deatschwerks. He was trying to get it running and the injectors where stuck. So he threw a set on he got free from work for a vanagon. They are high impedance though. I've got it running at idle ok but does not drive. Anybody have any experience on this. I know it's a long shot and I will be switching to speeduino but I'm just trying to get it going the way it is. Thanks