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2eighTZ4me

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About 2eighTZ4me

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    Member
  • Birthday 09/30/66

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  • Website URL
    http://www.hangoverture.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lawrenceville, Ga.
  • Interests
    Cars, bars, and guit-tars.
  1. Charging issue (non-charging)

    Thanks Richard. I came across the motherlode of an article explaining the err of my ways....think I'm good now. On the way out to go wire it up 'properly' now....thanks again for the reply! http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
  2. Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either. The 4 pins on my alternator plug are 1) Phase, 2) Indicator lamp, 3) Ignition, and 4) Sense. The DIY harness was rigged to the Indicator lamp, and as stated, I tried running a Sense wire to my fuse block. I am currently researching, but not coming up with much. I am not quite sure what I'm missing here. Anybody have any ideas?
  3. MECH -E, or others...any pics of that tranny mount?
  4. Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers....
  5. MECH-E - any word on the transmission mount? I just got mine from Hawk's, and I'm really wondering how this thing is going to work.
  6. Oil pressure issue....turbo road race application

    I have gotten the windage tray drilled out. I'm hoping this should be sufficient per johnc's instructions. (I can always do more if anyone thinks there's any benefit to that.) Also put back in the factory oil galley jets to the head.
  7. Oil pressure issue....turbo road race application

    Tony D - the engine does NOT have an AccuSump - but it will before it gets fired up next time. My problem was not bearing failure on startup. My problem was under extended high RPM runs, all the oil would go upstairs to the head, and I starved the bottom end. I have since put the factory oil restrictors back in the block, and have drilled 4x 1" holes in the passenger side of the windage tray to allow quicker flow back to the pan. John mentioned that earlier. I live in the South, and most of the time I got to the track, it's 70-90+ degrees outside. No need for a pan heater - plus, I let the car get up to temp on the grid before heading out.
  8. Oil pressure issue....turbo road race application

    Oil pump is basically brand new. There wasn't 500 miles on the motor. Brand new Melling pump for a turbo automatic - the high volume pump.
  9. Oil pressure issue....turbo road race application

    Tony D. - Specifically, what brand and weight of synthetic are you running / recommend? John - so just move the quarters to the other side of the pan, and let it rip?
  10. Oil pressure issue....turbo road race application

    Sorry to dredge up this post from the past, but a nasty, expensive divorce kinda got in the way. I finally got all my stuff back from the machine shop, and have obtained a new stroker crank. So - here's the pan with the tray laying on top of where it's supposed to go. Crank spins clockwise if you're looking at the front of the motor (counterclockwise if you're sitting in the driver seat) - so most of the oil is getting thrown at the driver's side of the pan. Is this where I'm supposed to drill the holes? Looks like I have room for a fourth toward the back of the pan - and I would think that couldn't hurt at all either... I just don't want to hack this thing up - measure twice, cut once.... Thanks all!
  11. WTB turbo oil pan 81-83 L6

    Price shipped to 30044??
  12. WTB turbo oil pan 81-83 L6

    Anybody?? Bueller???
  13. This is NOT my car - wish it was. Please contact below for more info. 1993 NISSAN 300ZX TWIN TURBO - MUSCLE POWER AND CLASS - $29,500 FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL: BROOKS HUNNICUTT (404) 285-5011 PHOTOBUCKET: http://s284.photobucket.com/user/brookshunnicutt/media/93%20300ZX%2013_zpsxs64e6jm.jpg.html Description: As the former owner of Z-Car Atlanta for 20 years, I have bought and sold many hundreds of Nissan Z-Cars. When I sold my business in 2000, my favorite car of all those cars that I owned over the years was the Nissan 300 Turbo ZX. My business had modified many 300 non-turbo and turbo cars over the years, but I had never modified one for myself. After I sold my business, I acquired a second owner twin turbo from one of the men that had worked for me with an original 96,000 miles on it. The car has never been wrecked, was in great condition when I purchased it, and the employee I bought it from had driven the car only a few miles during the 5 years he had it. Having owned Ferraris, Sunbeam Tigers, a ZL-1 Corvette, a 455 TransAm, and many other premium muscle cars, I decided I would build myself one last hotrod I could be proud of, so I hired two of my former mechanics whom I knew to be the best. We took the car completely apart (see pictures), and I spent $35,000 purchasing every single new part that Nissan made for the car along with the aftermarket parts. The paint is original, and the interior is all original except for the consol lid, the shift boot and the small bolster on the left side of the driver’s seat. The car has been heavily modified with high performance parts to enhance handling and speed. This car registered 495 Horsepower on the dynomometer. I have personally driven this car 150 MPH, and the car makes well over 500 horsepower. Vehicle Specifics Year: 1993 Make/Model: Nissan 300ZX Twin Turbo Odometer Reading: 106,666 Title Status: Clear Engine: V6 Twin Turbo Exterior Color: Red (original) Doors: 2 Interior Color: Charcoal Black Transmission: 5 Speed Body Style: Coupe Condition - Superior Features: Numbers Matching Power Steering Cruise Control Power Brakes Leather Seats Tilt Wheel Power Windows Seatbelts AM/FM Radio Power Seats T-Tops CD Player Power Locks Air Conditioning Driver Side Air Bag PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS: Suspension Upgrades Completed by Gran Turismo East: Stillen performance sway bars, bushings, and springs; new Nissan adjustable factory electric shocks; all stock suspension on all 4 corners replaced with Stillen adjustable control arms; factory Hicas 4­-wheel steering is still intact and working perfectly. Wheels: FN01RC 5Zigen Black Aluminum; Tires: Fuzion ZR1 - Front Size: 235/40R17 ZR1; Rear Size: 255/40R17 ZR1. Brakes: Hard metallic disc brake pads, brakes; calipers; rotors drilled and cut. Engine Modifications: Stillen Intercoolers; turbo hi flow intake filters; 555cc injectors; new factory high performance cam & pistons; Nissan performance cam; manifold hand polished for better performance; JWT Sport upgrade turbos; dual friction high performance clutch; Stillen 2 1/2 inch stainless steel exhaust; polished and ported upper plenum; 300ZX computer upgrade; HKS Hard Pipe Kit; Jim Wolf ECU. Transmission: Completely rebuilt with performance upgrades by McIntosh Performance. Note: Every hose and piece of rubber such weather stripping, all inner door rubbers and bushings has been replaced. The car has a new windshield, radiator, fan clutch, air flow meter, ignition module and virtually every piece that can be ordered from Nissan. I personally worked on the car every night during the build in order to insure that the work was properly done to my specifications. While the car was apart, the undercarriage was pressure washed and has not been in the rain since. There is documentation to support all modifications and improvements. In addition included are all original hard parts. This is by far the best car I have ever owned and I have driven quite a few.
  14. I am about to get underway with an LS6 swap. I purchased the motor, and it came with the entire engine bay harness. The motor is out of a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V. I am dropping it in to my 240 track car, which is currently run by MegaSquirt MS2. Would I be better off trying to use the connectors off the Caddy's engine bay harness and adapting them to the relay board, or trying to figure out a way to wire up each individual input? I am still researching all of this, and am an extreme newbie at the LS swap. Thought I'd throw that out there. Thanks!
  15. CD009 6M (350Z trans) with LS engine in a S30

    Following this thread. About to do a LS6 swap in my 240 - this couldn't have come at a better time! Thanks for all your input.
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