2eighTZ4me

JLuis - I'd like a set please. How many sets do you have left?

Thanks Richard. I came across the motherlode of an article explaining the err of my ways....think I'm good now. On the way out to go wire it up 'properly' now....thanks again for the reply! http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/

Just got my LS6 up and running using MS3Pro and the DIYAutoTune drop on LSx 24 harness. From the harness, there is 1 wire that goes to the alternator to activate a low charging light. That's the only wire on the plug. The alternator I got reman from RockAuto (98-02 Camaro) was tested fine at AutoZone. The alternator will not charge. I have the hot lug run back to a fuse block where all the large gauge wires centralize from the battery. I tried running a wire from the 'sense' pin on the alternator back to the fuse block so the system has 'reference' voltage, but that didn't work either. The 4 pins on my alternator plug are 1) Phase, 2) Indicator lamp, 3) Ignition, and 4) Sense. The DIY harness was rigged to the Indicator lamp, and as stated, I tried running a Sense wire to my fuse block. I am currently researching, but not coming up with much. I am not quite sure what I'm missing here. Anybody have any ideas?

MECH -E, or others...any pics of that tranny mount?

Greaaaaaat....just what I did NOT want to hear. Does it weld to the frame rails or something? I see no provisions for using the stock hangers....

MECH-E - any word on the transmission mount? I just got mine from Hawk's, and I'm really wondering how this thing is going to work.

I have gotten the windage tray drilled out. I'm hoping this should be sufficient per johnc's instructions. (I can always do more if anyone thinks there's any benefit to that.) Also put back in the factory oil galley jets to the head.

Tony D - the engine does NOT have an AccuSump - but it will before it gets fired up next time. My problem was not bearing failure on startup. My problem was under extended high RPM runs, all the oil would go upstairs to the head, and I starved the bottom end. I have since put the factory oil restrictors back in the block, and have drilled 4x 1" holes in the passenger side of the windage tray to allow quicker flow back to the pan. John mentioned that earlier. I live in the South, and most of the time I got to the track, it's 70-90+ degrees outside. No need for a pan heater - plus, I let the car get up to temp on the grid before heading out.

Oil pump is basically brand new. There wasn't 500 miles on the motor. Brand new Melling pump for a turbo automatic - the high volume pump.

Tony D. - Specifically, what brand and weight of synthetic are you running / recommend? John - so just move the quarters to the other side of the pan, and let it rip?

Sorry to dredge up this post from the past, but a nasty, expensive divorce kinda got in the way. I finally got all my stuff back from the machine shop, and have obtained a new stroker crank. So - here's the pan with the tray laying on top of where it's supposed to go. Crank spins clockwise if you're looking at the front of the motor (counterclockwise if you're sitting in the driver seat) - so most of the oil is getting thrown at the driver's side of the pan. Is this where I'm supposed to drill the holes? Looks like I have room for a fourth toward the back of the pan - and I would think that couldn't hurt at all either... I just don't want to hack this thing up - measure twice, cut once.... Thanks all!

Price shipped to 30044??

Anybody?? Bueller???

I am about to get underway with an LS6 swap. I purchased the motor, and it came with the entire engine bay harness. The motor is out of a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V. I am dropping it in to my 240 track car, which is currently run by MegaSquirt MS2. Would I be better off trying to use the connectors off the Caddy's engine bay harness and adapting them to the relay board, or trying to figure out a way to wire up each individual input? I am still researching all of this, and am an extreme newbie at the LS swap. Thought I'd throw that out there. Thanks!

Following this thread. About to do a LS6 swap in my 240 - this couldn't have come at a better time! Thanks for all your input.

Just about to undergo an LS6 swap, and was wondering if anyone has used the Collins Adapter to mate a 350Z CD009 tranny to their LS setup? Also curious how the transmission handles the power. I have read this is the cheaper alternative to the T56, so I'm curious who has done it and if any recommendations are in order.

OK - so the moment you've all been waiting for...... So - where in the windage tray do I drill these 3x 3/4" holes?

What Tony D. said.... this little guy is your ticket... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-11189?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKEAjw0q2pBRC3jrb24JjE8VgSJAAyIzAdCsbDjvm6iHEEt-aGGrZIyuf8o-uV9KpcShzzMucQHRoCHzvw_wcB

Haha!! You guys!! At the risk of not knowing you guys' familiarity with Rotella (and forgive me, if you're screwing with me!!) - it's a diesel oil made by Shell - comes in 15-40, and straight 30wt. Over the years, the EPA has been cutting zinc out of passenger car oil, as you know. Rotella was/is exempt, because it's a diesel motor oil, yet still retains 'some' of that zinc, and my turbo buddies swear by it too. I've been using it in every one of my vehicles for the past 10 years - don't even have to add a bottle of ZDDP. And yes - as I thought initially, it's probably way too much oil to the head. I have an internally oiled cam, that I ran with a spraybar setup too. Thought that was the issue. Blocked off the spraybar, and still the same problem. I believe the oil passage modification was meant to be used in conjunction with other mods - yet I have the automatic turbo oil pump...and as I stated, it is maxed out on the Wolf Creek adjuster setting. Probably just going to get a new oil pump for the turbo automatic - leave the Wolf Creek adjuster off - and roll with it. Maybe my machinist can weld up the oil passage holes back to stock size. Hate to lose this block.... Going out to tear it down now...

Dare I ask how much the DP racing pan costs? The AZC pan was bad enough. I don't suppose you have any pics of where you drill those holes John? I'd like to avoid spending any MORE money on this thing if I can avoid it. I know it was you John, that recommended I go with the oil thermostat - what would be the disadvantage of removing it altogether? I don't have a problem with oil getting up to temp quickly with the turbo. Thank you for confirming a suspicion....

I have had a recurring pressure drop issue while on track. I will try not to be too 'wordy'. Some random information; - 3.1L stroker turbo. Remote Oberg oil filter system. Routing goes Block > Oberg > Mocal oil thermostat > oil cooler > return to block. All -10AN lines. - I have opened up the oil passages in the block that feeds the head per the "How to Modify" book. Internally oiled cam BTW. - When cold - I start the car and run up to 2k rpm's - oil pressure pegs the gauge at 100psi. - As motor gets to operating temp, pressure averages about 10psi per 1000 rpm's - which is average from my experience. - When I get on track, however, pressure goes into the toilet once the oil temps start creeping up past 230. I have seen as little as 20psi at 4000rpm. - Running a turbo automatic oil pump with the Wolf Creek Racing external oil pressure adjuster cranked in as far as it will go. - Motor ate a bearing yesterday at the dyno. Was running Rotella straight 30wt. - I have tried many other oils of varying viscosities and manufacturers - all with the same result. - In speaking with my machinist yesterday - he asked if I had a deep sump oil pan. I am indeed running the Arizona Z Car aluminum baffled pan. His next question got me thinking....'do you have a deeper pickup tube as well'?? Well....no. His thought is that - once the oil gets hot and thins out, it's flooding the head because of the enlarged oil passages, and the oil can't drain back to the pan quick enough. Even though there is an extra quart capacity - the pickup tube is still stock and does not get all the way down in the pan to get at that extra oil. I have not cracked open the motor yet to measure the actual depth of the pickup tube and pan, but that was a good hunch. Will know that info this evening. Regardless, this problem has plagued me since day 1 with this motor. All bearing clearances are well within spec. I plastigage each motor I build, and am very particular about the clearances. As a note - when I drained the oil cooler yesterday - the oil was all black, whereas the engine oil was nice and gold (and full of engine bearing pieces). I'm thinking that thermostat might be causing some issues as well, and am thinking of removing it altogether so it's a straight shot from the filter to the cooler. I would like to hear ideas and comments from folks that actually get their cars out on track - as you cannot punish your car on the street like you do on track.

Has anyone found a good/close match for the brown interior in a 280Z? I have tried a couple, and they are not even close. One looks close on the cap color - but when it dries, it's not like the cap color at all. Part numbers or manufacturer/color codes would be fantastic - if anyone's had good luck matching the brown interior.

I have a 77-79 5 speed. First gear is wasted. I have a very good 4 speed. Will any of the gear sets interchange between the two boxes? Meaning - can I nab first gear off the 4 speed and use it in the 5? Or will that require the countershaft to have to be swapped over as well? Thus, rendering the box to a 4 speed anyways...

Hmmm...interesting. I have the vented S12-W on the front and the 240SX solid on the rear. After fighting an issue with the reaction disc in the booster - I have it sorted. Reaction disc now glued into place....I can't tell the difference in pedal between my stock 78 setup and the Yota setup. You may have a little more adjustment to do with the booster rod AND/OR your pedal travel/adjustment at the pedal itself. It's in there....mine works perfectly....you just gotta futz with it a little bit. Solid pedal from initial push.

Well - the motor is nothing more than a big air pump. The more air in and out - the more power (with required fuel of course) So - whether you achieve that via porting, camshaft, or a combination of both - you're still adding power. Given identical fuels - you'll make more power with the airflow than you will with a timing advance or higher compression. Although, the higher compression will certainly lend to better results - but again - you have to tune around the fuel you'll be using. I can make far more power with my turbo setup than a NA setup for the sheer volume of air that's being passed through the motor. I don't need to shave, port, bump, grind, quench or otherwise to get the air through there. But, since we're talking NA - I think the gains by porting/cam will far outweigh the benefits achieved by shaving/shimming/timing. Edit...let me back up and say that if you're running SU's - yes - the shaving and compression is going to give you a boost. If, however, you're running a larger runner EFI intake, or AT LEAST 40mm carbs - the flow is going to benefit you more.