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Zetsaz

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Zetsaz last won the day on July 18 2023

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About Zetsaz

  • Birthday September 25

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    Guadalajara/Utah/Seattle

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  1. Zetsaz

    Ms3x install

    Good stuff to know! Once I get spark fixed with my new coils I might toy with the trim for the first 3 at idle and see if it helps even more. Idle/cold starts/warm up enrichment always feel like a mess to me
  2. I will take you up on that! Small update: Slowly purchasing little things here and there again. I'm not happy with my LS coils slowly going out and even less happy with my bracket. Granted the placement is better than most i've seen. I REALLY don't like how high up on the valve cover the Protunerz one is. Mine normally goes where one of the heater hoses is, but I'm retaining stock function and moved it. Between those problems and having to buy new coils soon I chose to upgrade to Nissan coils. Got the bracket from @DuffyMahoney and ordered the Hitachi coils from RockAuto. In a few weeks I'll hopefully get a chance to work on it again.
  3. I did something very similar a few years ago, but I had the tabs to bolt it in in the same location as the original, and I kept the same angle on the rear inlet as the stock piece. It flows okay as well, but it tends to flow mostly out the center. I had some help with this design since I'm a complete novice with 3D modeling software, but if I could do it again, I would add some kind of center diverter to prevent the air from just flowing into the center and actually directing it slightly to the side to each vent.
  4. Are you sure you didn't have a Jeep stepper? Looks almost identical but the pattern isn't the same. I had both on hand and realized the bolts don't line up on a Jeep stepper despite being a nearly identical part.
  5. I think he might have short injectors on there. The protunerz page specifically says not to use those. He's testing the clearance with the injectors instead of the supplied brackets which would have clued him in to why it's too close to the thermostat. Not to knock on the guy, I'm sure he got it figured out, but definitely seems like typical videos people post hoping to get some internet clout instead of spending their time actually working things out. A lot of folks on youtube and other social media tend to post these long videos before even asking the supplier about their issue, instead of posting the result then mentioning the problems they ran into and how they were solved.
  6. What was painful to watch about the videos? I feel like this intake is not that much different from installing a different oem one. Only thing you have to change is where some vacuum is going to. Well, I guess other than the cable throttle needing to be installed.
  7. Didn't do a whole lot while I was home for Christmas like I was hoping. Since the weather was so unusually warm and no much snow (and consequently not much salt on the roads) I couldn't pass up the opportunity to take the car out for some cruising. Here are just a few of the updates Found the mats I thought were missing! DID replaced the horn retaining ring, but not sure how I feel about how tight it is. Don't want to glue the horn pad to it just yet in case something chips. Already has some small bits if it flake off when removing the original ring, but at least now it doesn't fall every time I hit a bump. Installed only a small handful of shims. Realized most of them are still good. I think if I visit this spring the big work will be finally fixing the seals on the hatch and adjusting it properly. Right now it tends to pull back on the seal. Ugly and makes it inconvenient to use since I have to tuck it back. Also broke my IAC valve running it through test mode in tunerstudio somehow... woops haha. Blew the end off. Put it back together but now it won't go in or out. Also bought a proper reproduction windshield washer bottle Biggest mishap... found out one side of the bumper hasn't been hanging on to the brackets at all. Probably broke early on. It's just a few tacks holding it on Gonna fix with epoxy when I get back.
  8. Even my "rust free" 280z had the floors replaced at some point (poorly, I might add). I'll agree with you here, it's so worth it to find a body that needs as little work as possible. His example in the videos is FAR better than most and still required some patching to get it to a high standard. Very impressed with his videos and the work on the hood though. It's almost motivating me to replace my floors properly, now with properly reproduced seat supports that weren't available when I made mine out of square tubing... slightly less tempting now that it's painted though haha.
  9. Not sure if you're still taking orders but I'd definitely be interested 1 Hoody Size: (M) color black 2 T Shirts Size: (M) color black Size: (M) color royal blue ZIP - 84321
  10. They seem pretty reliable. Honestly I don't trust any of the current suppliers for carbon parts.
  11. Thought this was pretty intense and honestly really well done. https://www.motortrend.com/events/datsun-240z-tesla-restomod-ev-sema-2023/
  12. Wide body would be slightly better if the rear arches were higher. They seem to sit very low. Considering the rest of the work I think they just kept them even with the front, but with that hump in the rear it looks a bit awkward. Same thing happens with ZG flares honestly. Lots of people place them too low. Pretty impressive otherwise. Only the second functional awd I can remember seeing. Both with american v8s
  13. Makes me wish I hadn't tossed my originals. I don't like the way the rear one mounts on the 280z, but I honestly don't have much of a need of stiffer sway bars. At best I do a bit of canyon driving and I'm probably too scared to slide off the road and ruin all my time (and money) to really push the limits. As far as the transmission mount goes that looks correct. Like @madkaw said it definitely flexes a lot. When I first installed my 71c transmission it had enough flex for one of the bolts to put a nice gash on the side of my shiny new T3 trans crossmember. I still have the original and it's honestly not bad with the new Kameari engine mounts since now there's not much side to side movement and the trans mount really mostly needs to be fore/aft isolation. If you're not trying to go solid mount or find a stiff poly alternative you could do what I did for the engine mounts and buy a Kameari mount. Supposedly 1.5x harder than OEM but still rubber. I might be doing that when I pull the trans to fix my rear main leak. I'm honestly very happy with the compromise between OEM and poly on my engine mounts
  14. Is that an ST front sway bar? Doesn't look like you have spacers on it. Do you have any issues with it fowling against the frame rails on the outside? Mine seems to rub and it looks like if I hit a particularly rough bump I'd probably just slightly bend the pinch on the outside. Right about where it curves to the rear it just touches.
  15. Honestly wish I'd stopped by during my pacific coast cruise, but that was around peak covid time so I was just camping out of the Z on the way to my brother's in LA. How are the KWs vs something like BCs? What did you have before? My only complaint just by looking at them is that you can't set preload independently and change ride height with a threaded body like the BCs, but I honestly don't know enough about suspension dynamics to say if that's that much of a difference at the end of the day. I think for an old car I'm actually not too noisy, but on bumps the pillow ball at the top coupled with the camber tops being metal right onto the metal of the car adds more noise than most things. I've almost been tempted to create at least a little poly "shim" between the coilovers and the strut towers so it's at least not metal directly onto metal.
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