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Zetsaz last won the day on November 29 2017

Zetsaz had the most liked content!

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About Zetsaz

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  • Birthday September 25

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    Logan, Utah and Seattle Area
  1. Really excited to see how this thing turns out. Keep going back and fourth between some kind of turbo build or just a fun NA. Already have MS3x ready for anything.
  2. That's siiiiick. Excited to see how this thing turns out!
  3. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    That's the same reason I go back and forth on it in the future. If I did buy something like that in carbon, I would try to get a carbon or fiberglass hatch as well and match them to whatever paint I had on the rest of the car.
  4. Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    I'd keep the rear bumper on. Only reason not to is for heavily modified cars or those that don't use the front. Weirdly enough, some of the cars from Star Road that have the full length front grill and bumper deletes are still using the rear bumper. I think it looks unbalanced. As far as the bonnet is concerned, for the cost of a new original one you could have one from carbon fiber. Of course some people have complained about small fitment issues with those as well, so it depends on what you're after.
  5. I believe the popular panasport set is the 16x7 +10. Seems a bit conservative. I've looked into sizing for this stuff obsessively and most people seem to be having the best success with 16x8 +4 on some of the rota sets. I wouldn't try to run any wider without a higher positive offset. Also refer to this thread
  6. This is mine. Same area you're pointing to. It's almost all the way in. The pin on yours on the front side is out in that picture. That piece shouldn't move in and out. Should only go side to side.
  7. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    That one is the one I have. I bought it on ebay, don't remember which is cheaper right now. Ships in a full size box so it's not folded up. Fitment is good, you just have to ignore the recessed bumper areas on the air dam. They don't go as far back as the recesses on the headlight buckets. Just line it up from the wheel wells and center the middle with the point of the hood and you're good. Skillard developed some turn signal backing plates for this stuff and I didn't realize why until I had it. The 240z turn signals barely have any material to hold onto. That's the only complaint. Buy the Xenon 3124 wherever it's cheapest and add the skillard plates and it'll be perfect.
  8. Highest quality type 1 air dam with ducts

    If you're going ducted, buy the urethane one directly from Xenon. Fitment is great and it doesn't ship folded over like MSA mails them. If you're looking for the fiberglass ducted then you're out of luck, MSA seems to have notoriously poor fitment on some of their fiberglass parts. I thought Retro-spec might make one, but they only have the non-ducted type 1.
  9. I'm sure someone more experienced can chime in. What you're experiencing sounds slightly different than what I had to fix and I'm not sure I can think of much off the top of my head that would cause that problem. I would check that the pin that that guy in the other thread has circled is a proper pin and wasn't replaced by a random bolt. It should have an E clip on one side if I'm remembering correctly. I would also double check the pin that holds the shift lever in place. A good idea to replace the shifter bushing while you're there if you haven't already. Super easy based on the Atlantic Z writeup. If it's neither of those things then the problem might be internal like the selector fork being broken. Similar problem to yours but I'm not sure they found the solution: http://forums.nicoclub.com/transmission-stuck-in-first-gear-but-shifter-is-in-neutral-t602912.html Helpful insights into other possible solutions/causes though.
  10. Does the sticking only happen while you're driving, or does it happen while the car is sitting too? Do you feel anything strange about the clutch? I've repaired to slightly similar things on my first car and the Datsun, but nothing quite the same. Datsun was going into gear when it was off, but I couldn't get it to shift at all once it was on, and I couldn't put it out of neutral once it was running. I think the issue was a seized throwout bearing. Not necessarily the best way to go about it, but I fixed this by raising the back end and starting it in gear. Engine has a lot more power than I do so the bearing came loose and I was able to shift freely after that. This seems to be a more common issue on FWD cars. It's an issue with the linkages not working properly or not being properly connected.
  11. MCM S30 video

    I was wondering when they'd get one.
  12. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm
  13. Honestly if everything mechanical is working they're fun to drive. Even with all the rust. The Ratsun groups mindset almost makes sense to me when I drive it as is... almost.