Modern Motorsports Ltd

Completely agreed Jon! We're just getting a small batch of shorter shafts underway now. I'm just resecuring a spare set so we can finalize some measurements at present. For clarification (likely clarified by others) -280ZXT CV's have a shorter compressed length than the Z31 4 bolt CV's (ie. 280ZXT CV's can a greater ride height drop etc than Z31 CV's before binding) -their are 3 Z31 CV types, 6 bolt outer flange sets that are far too long for Z use, and then two variants of the 4 bolt outer flange that go with our adaptors. (visous SE with unique R200 input shafts and the typical 4 bolt non viscous Z31 R200's) The 4 bolt outer flange sets are same compressed length's and can be fully compressed/bound on a Z car that's been notably lowered. We don't have enough info to have an exact figure on this but it's always good practise to confirm your axles have travel throughout your suspension range without binding As Jon noted, in comparing axles the compressed lengths should always be used and make sure your comparision points are common amongst the measurements. I'll update on the availability of the new shorter center sections shortly. Any other questions at all please let us know.

>>I'll insert some comments below. Maybe we've received this question from you and did address but doesn't seem any direct match? So, who has swapped out their half-shafts and gone over to CVs? >>A few hundred with a hundred plus on the Z31's since Jan 2003. Before us they were proven out with a few dedicated track racers in Ontario with identical geometry. Have you experienced problems after doing so? >>Typical item is shortening your outer swaybar end link with a short high grade bolt. Always suggest verifying your suspension travel that your shafts have appropriate travel and don't see full compression in your travel range for use. >>If you've narrowed your rear or dropped it a lot you may get into bind and that would show up in typical test of your suspension. This is NOT to see if it's happy at full droop as that's not a normal condition unless you're a desert rally racer/jumper. I switched over to 300ZXT CVs using M-MSports companion flange adapter (for 280 stub axles) for my R200 (3:90 quaife) diff. The first set of CVs were aftermarket (AutoZone) and they destroyed the pinion gear due to the fact that one side (driver) had a longer shaft than was required. >>aftermarket often seems to screw up these rebuilds as they have several same spline but slightly varied length donor male sections. We quit dealing with aftermarket hiccuped axles (rebuilds) after one with a errant middle section. I'd only run original OEMs/at most update boots. The CV's are very tolerant and don't seem to justify any rebuild. 9 second 1/4's Ben cut on his used Z31 set. We should find that specific length data to help all confirm they've got a perfect length set for their install. On lowered 240Z this extra 3/8 - 1/2-inch was all it took to push the ring gear into the pinion and wear it down in under 200 miles of highway driving. >>did the axle have travel thru the suspensions functional range? I took my Z out today for the first time in 4 months (the roads here in New England still have salt on them - #@!*&^%) and I found myself paying more attention to potential diff noises and less on enjoying a ride in a real car. >>That's NO fun at all, I hate suspect noise! Have you confirmed axles are happy thru your intended suspension range? ie. still some compression available at what you'd believe to be full droop in function? (or full compression/ie. very lowered car). Did your quaife have the circlips/Clips installed to retain the CV inputs? Quaife missed those on a small shipment last year, one of our customers was affected and installed the clips on his own. Am I the only one who has had this problem? >>Tom Barnett encountered it with a very lowered car with axles pointing up and outward (vs. horizontal or out and down etc as John typically recommends). Tom informed us he had a custom set being made 7/8" shorter to keep his axles happy and we've not heard further. We could easily make custom center bars for these but have not had the request (easily done by our manufacturer) or knowledge of issues in addition to Toms. If a few sets can be justified then our usual $340 for a pair of custom bars. (no question it's a tight install but it's worked great for many combos' for some time, we're open to change always - just looking to fully undestand and ensure any change is the appropriate one) Just curious what are you guys typically paying for a set of used CV axles these days? kash, hopefully your query's answered in our response above. We ONLY proceed on what's either been proven (by ourselves or others) and/or is very well founded in sound engineering practise with our products and combinations. The other factors will always continue to change and to those we respond as best we can with our usual support and continued design over the last 7 yrs. It's the continued support of those with the same strong progressive attitudes that we so greatly appreciated in marching onward with new offerings. Some setup guru's would not drop their cars 2.5/3" etc, some do so introduces new parameters both for angularity of the CV's and shaft travel as their geometries revised. Assuming the CV's are OK with their new angularity (often ignored) range, then the shortened shafts should put them back in their happy zone. Any want some shorter centers because they're narrowing their rear or dropping their car notably (less than 1% noted any issue to date) please drop us a line. We'll gladly get you a set.

Stony, we've done that and made it even easier with no bearing changes! Been busy! Two new packages to announce! Even Beefier Billet Stub axles with 49% more strength than our present billet stub axles that have been so well proven! Keep your Datsun IRS while running your 700 and higher ft/lbs of torque:flamedevi Easily upgrade to massive strength while retaining your present rear brakes and suspension already optimized for your Z! Any doubt left, please test our replacement guarantee8-) 39 spline stub axles that plug and play into Z strut housings without modification and with factory bearings! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132063 And now our R200V/R230V shortnose differential full mounting setups being proven in prototype and production out within 3-4 weeks time tops! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132062 Thanks again to your commitment and support of our full lineup! Can't wait to see more pics and vids of these wicked builds!

Been busy! Two new packages to announce! Even Beefier Billet Stub axles with 49% more strength than our present billet stub axles that have been so well proven! Keep your Datsun IRS while running your 700 and higher ft/lbs of torque:flamedevi Easily upgrade to massive strength while retaining your present rear brakes and suspension already optimized for your Z! 39 spline stub axles that plug and play into Z strut housings without modification and with factory bearings! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132063 And now our R200V/R230V shortnose differential full mounting setups being proven in prototype and production out within 3-4 weeks time tops! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132062 Thanks again to your commitment and support of our full lineup! Can't wait to see more pics and vids of these wicked builds!

Cheers to the board and all the 8 yr olds around since inception and all others! Must be dog years as the boards exploded with info and expertise in it's active life to date! Special thanks to Dan for keeping the roof over our heads! (I see you got your package yesterday, enjoy the install!)

Jody et al, thanks for the vocal support! We'll get you hooked up again Jody:wink:. And can't have you holding back Mike, I want some video's for our all new incoming website/shop! You build that power and the rest of the car and we want to see it maximized. Got a chuckle out of me their, had lots underway some items slow right up at the vendor/design step before manufacture. Need a longer flamethrower to keep the heat on 'em! All new incoming website/webshop which will make customer experience for both information and shopping including checkout much easier. And on our back end side it'll be much easier to keep products shown current. A number of products we've been selling not on present site as it's just a dinosaur to work with, not much longer! New beefed Z stub axles, new differential mounting options in full packages plus others. Just commented on the other 33/35 spline thread on these same beefy bulletproof Z stub's in the making, "Our design was done a while back but our goto for finishing this package has been inundated with projects but finally we've got their nose to the grindstone successfully! (sorry Rick, I just didn't have the heart to say it was still parked!) If we're in agreement then it should certainly be a solution without boring required but I'll know far more next week as their design check with my own is being progressed over this weekend and early this week. We've already got a short list of site members that'll be adding these to their present Modern Motorsports drivetrain parts. Next week I'll have details confirmed but we'd expect to see them available this spring. It's truly fun seeing what you guys can crank out for power and performance from these Z's! On a similar note another of our longer term projects is nearly done. Will include a full differential mounting setup for the later R200's and R230's. We've long had the billet R200/R230 CV adaptors and replacement center axles for our customers. Now they won't have to sort their own differential mounts out. Will include full front mount, rear mustache and rear crossover. Will also include the less common later R200 with the 5lug side flanges. More info forthcoming on this (pricing will be finalized when productions costs finalized) but certainly available this spring and first few spoken for by site members including an install by a site guru. Always great to see the support."

Jake, did you get a chance to check your available travel? the gland nuts? etc? Unless doing a wholesale replacement (which many do but doesn't sound your intent at present) best to understand what you have and the problems present. Otherwise changes may not address your specific problems and they may continue. Shimmy can be any of the things you note and more. (be good to grab a Haynes or service manual etc if you don't have one already). "Would stock springs be up to the task", what's your goal? Safe grocery retrieval or wicked canyon carving/honda tossing fun? V8 builds are typically for taking it easy so builders typically want to kick most systems up in performance from what a new or old stock Z system would provide. Up front depends on your added weight/strut condition/ride height and driving style with road conditions etc if stock springs will tolerate your use. Rear similar but also more related to your torque applied on throttle for starters. The 16's you can fit but would need some manner of spacer. If coilovers were in place spacers would be quite thin if you wanted the wheels tucked inward/otherwise push them out as far as they'll clear comfortably on the fenders. Either way good to replace your wheel studs (can go stock or longer aftermarket's etc). Slip on spacers can be custom made easily or bolt on wheel adaptors. Minimum thickness for bolt on's is 3/4". Got some 3/4's being done right now for a site member, typically custom orders. Email us if you'd like to explore this or replacement suspension options (we don't deal with stock suspension parts/upgraded performance items only) Wider wheels etc can be fitted depending on your flare design and installation. Easiest to put the car up and measure very carefully/borrow some various wheels etc and see how they fit along with site research. Cheers and good luck.

Stony, are you building another Z or planning some changes? Sets done to date were for Z31 struts. Ben's Ozzy set was for his Gazelle (special edition 200SX we saw in the 80's), which from the factory had the Z31 R200 clutch rear and Z31 4 bolt outer flange CV's. Our design was done a while back but our goto for finishing this package has been inundated with projects but finally we've got their nose to the grindstone successfully! (sorry Rick, I just didn't have the heart to say it was still parked!) If we're in agreement then it should certainly be a solution without boring required but I'll know far more next week as their design check with my own is being progressed over this weekend and early this week. Thanks for the support S15, we've already got a short list of site members that'll be adding these to their present Modern Motorsports drivetrain parts. Next week I'll have details confirmed but we'd expect to see them available this spring. It's truly fun seeing what you guys can crank out for power and performance from these Z's! On a similar note another of our longer term projects is nearly done. Will include a full differential mounting setup for the later R200's and R230's. We've long had the billet R200/R230 CV adaptors and replacement center axles for our customers. Now they won't have to sort their own differential mounts out. Will include full front mount, rear mustache and rear crossover. Will also include the less common later R200 with the 5lug side flanges. More info forthcoming on this (pricing will be finalized when productions costs finalized) but certainly available this spring and first few spoken for by site members including an install by a site guru. Always great to see the support.

Bowtiez, we've done wheelcentric wheel spacers in both slip and bolt on versions for some time to customers spec's. Typically ship in 7-10 days from purchase date. With todays common larger diameter wheels/heavier wheel/tire combo's the extra protruding lip's help maintain ideal balance. Drop us an email if you'd like more info. I'm sure others specializing in wheel adaptors do the same. Enjoy all your wheel options, always fun to get back some choices!

Jake, I assume you got the 327 V8? Firstly I'd caution to take it easy in this potential beast until you've been over all critical systems thoroughly and then progressively tested them with confidence (throttle/brake/susp/struts/tires/lugnuts etc etc!). Hopefully nothing much shows up and if it does you'll just be glad you're safe! Knowing you have one known bug is more than enough to make one want to have full peace of mind on the build. Jon's tip is great, be careful after doing that check when removing the zap strap to avoid nicking the strut insert cylinder surface. I've typically suggested pushing your bump stop to the bottom for similar test if you have a bump stop installed and accessible. Find out if you're bottoming on the springs/strut's or if a gland nuts loose. The big nut holding your strut insert inside the strut tube (gland nut) can come loose and be quite annoying to trouble shoot. Not common but does occur. Jarring noise and often sensation depending on how loose it's come. Good luck and let us know what you find. Once you've figured out what you've got it'll be easier for you to decide if a simple fix is preferred or if you want to look at some new parts or packages etc. If it has been run with suspension bottoming on struts then the struts are typically shot but see what the testing yields.

Stony, only pics we have are what Ben took as it was a rush for his race event (he beat some skylines as I recall that protested as he was missing doortrim!). Combo included the Billet Z31 stub axles (larger spindle than the OEM ones!) with a 41 spline and then custom bearing/distance spacer with new upsized bearings to suit with the custom mating 41 spline companion flange to the Z31 4 bolt CV axles. Ben ran this configuration with the R200 CLSD. Many advantages gained, the larger diameter gave a greater strength naturally from the greater cross section. But the 41 spline was another great strength addition, reduced the depth of cut into this cross section required while keeping excellent spline engagement. I need more marketing sense to always get these early pics that I sometimes miss! My brain likes to stick on the tech side too often! A switch and doing some reply posts tonight:-). We're looking at the options to putting these into Z housings right now. These we'd guarantee;), even for Jody. Intended to have this a while back but got delayed with some design priorities. I see posts above 'I'm watching', well I did post #23 or thereabouts but hadn't revisited till today so please don't assume/if you want something please feel free to drop me an email:smile:. A number of new setups forthcoming shortly from us not counting this beefy Z stub axle project.

Just cruising some posts and see Ben didn't update this. We did do some larger than Z31 OEM diameter Z31 stubs with matching companion flanges/bearing-distance spacers. They finished as 41 spline (yes, 41!) 4340 pieces that got Ben into his quickest times with the car and showing a few skylines in Australia who's boss:smile: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=790657&postcount=72 From Ben in post above : "Ross has manufactured these and I have tested the prototypes and can report they are good to at least 1.33 sec 60 foots and 9.12 &154 mph in my little 4 banger beast. In fact, its possible to hang the wheels in the air a fair ways with these parts." We've seen little demand from Ben's success's but we're guilty of not having marketed them much so may see that change. Certainly an option to open the envelope for some Z31's. We're working at putting a v. similar combo into the Z strut housings..

I'd agree. In my meetings with Tokico twice/yr at Sema and locally, and all Tokico sales I've never had an issue at all. I've only dealt with their struts, never the springs. Even an Illumina set we sent to England ended up with a busted adjustable red dial and Tokico direct just sent out a replacement dial next day. Kept the folks over the pond happy. I know John interacts with them regularly and it's been positive from his comments and he's distributing their line:smile:. Certainly Tokico's been stand up in my experience. I've never gotten behind any non-coilover springs for the Z's as the Z's vary too much (as was posted previously) in weight and the springs aren't so dialed in for any specific use so it's a bit of a crap shoot who's happy and who's not with end results. Although they're great for getting many into modifications quite affordably in the early stages. We've replaced every non coilover brand for customers at one time or another with our own coilovers to make matches where the other result wasn't as expected. For coilbind allowance the Hypercoils have the greatest available coil travel of the typical brands I'm aware of. As for the warnings etc, with any strut install/spring change/ride height change the available travel should certainly be checked after the install both statically and after some maximum compressions (scout trip on your worst bumps/pseudo FIA curbs ) if it might be questionable (slide your bump stop down to the bottom of strut piston when at static and see if it finishes right at the very top again after some driving on your max bumps etc). Easier to check with springs with greater gaps between the coils. One customers car I was watching at an autox had some funny chattering characteristic on the course at our annual All Nissan/Datsun meet. It had full coilovers/widebody/brakes you name it and they'd just swapped a new wheel/tire combo on and tucked it in at strangely sharp angle.... I looked above the wheel and it was less than 3/8" from the bump stops! It was riding on the stops, not good. Sectioned struts but customer had dropped it well over 3"! Dropping the Z into the weeds wasn't doing him favours! So no matter what you believe a parts combo may do please check it out after install to see exactly what it's done on your Z.

Yes, they DO have their function. But HUGE difference is those truly high end rotors are designed from the beginning knowing they'll be machined with thru holes. As part of the design they can optimize stress paths in the casting design etc as well as tooling used to truly minimize cracking potential. Majority of drilled rotors have ZERO design towards accommodating this and the drilled holes are simply a pattern machined thru. I've seen cheap and pricey drilled ones cracked like swiss cheese. I almost never recommend treated rotors but do sell them regularly on custom request to customers. Our drilled 2 piece do look incredible with their very nicely machined chamfered holes, they'll show alongside any other rotor and function is excellent but my engineering side prefers the pure blanks. Our typical kits we've put out with the drilled/slotted cad plated etc on request. Bhines commented why upgrade street brakes when you can already lock up your tires? What's to be gained? I'd answer your ability to modulate your threshold braking to 99% of lockup is MUCH easier with improved brakes (ie. greater available braking force/modulation - NOT talking about drilled rotors etc). Stock brakes for ie. you may jump from 90% available (just an assumed value) lockup braking to 100% with a junior to average driver. With improved brakes it's just that much easier to modulate your brakes 'prelockup' maximizing brake force/minimizing brake distance. I'm no Mario at all for driving skill and that's the exact effect I experienced firstly with KVR pads and SS lines, then to a much greater degree with my 13" setup. Both on my 280ZX, same applies to the Z's and is consistent our feedback over the years.

FIRSTLY, HAPPY NEW YEARS EVERYONE! John, feel free to drop us a note with any other questions. We've got a few customers running this combo with our rear stub axles, not everyone's got our brakes:icon10:. Dave's got fine products and easy to understand some wanting to marry the two products. What's key is proper fitment of the rotor hat holes with the wheel studs themselves. (this is true of most assemblies, proper hole to fastener fitment's critical for longevity/proper function, rotors/custom wheel spacers etc etc). The lug nuts etc should only have to keep it locked down/not stop the assembly from shifting in the bored holes. The wheel stud takes the shear as intended as long as it's locked down properly which proper fitment and torque will complete. I recall recommending to Jaime firstly that he contact Dave of AZC as Dave should be informed of his product's use outside intended use. (his thickened rear hat utilizes a combination of press in studs and pass thrU bolt through the factory stub axle as I recall). Secondly that he utilize a slip on function with the AZC assembly. Ensuring his AZC setup had a bored hole pattern fitting our wheel studs properly (it had to fit perfect as is or be modified easily to fit perfectly). Our billet stub axle that Jaime was utilizing would have had 1/2" studs in it. Either bore the existing AZC holes to suit or put an alternate pattern in to suit. I'm not aware if Dave's modified his 4 to 5lug hat design but the balance may be changed by the bore thru to suit our billet stub axles (could only be improved if anything as it improves symmetry of the hat assembly/not negatively affected). Either way it's a simple step for any machinist, perhaps Dave's been accommodating such custom requests already. Be worth asking him either way as I know we have customers running this combo. Sidebar on our 12mm stud switch from original 1/2" : by vast majority request our stub axles and aluminum hubs have had M12x1.5 ARP studs in them for some time now. The prior 1/2" studs required some wheels to be bored out before fitting as they're made to suit M12 studs (no Japanese wheels were suiting the 1/2"). These M12's are far more accommodating of present wheel choice's and the length was more suitable as few were using the excess length of the 1/2" studs we originally used. Our typical ARP M12's are just over 2" in length and we have a longer M12 option of 3"+ we utilize with the few using thick spacers and wheel centers that require the extra stud length. We've accomodated a few custom 1/2" requests (typically big Chevy pattern's) but vast majority favour the M12's.