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greygears

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About greygears

  • Birthday 05/17/1936

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  1. Glad to hear you got your Z running with a simple cable adjustment! A lot of people throw away the flat top carbs. I don’t know why, with a little trickery they can be made to run just a strong as any of the earlier carburetors. And I think the choke system is better on the flat tops.
  2. Here’s how I set up the chokes. First, remove the air cleaner completely, so that the carburetors are exposed. Detach both choke cables and move them out of the way. Pull up on the lever that the choke cable was attached to on the carburetor and watch the nozzle (A.K.A. jet) on the bottom of the carburetor. It should pull down as you pull up on the lever. Also notice there is a dogleg shaped lever rod that opens the throttle linkage a little when the lever is pulled. More on this later. If you cannot move the nozzle, It has most likely glued its self in place with varnish. Not unusual if it has sat for a while. Check both carbs. If either one is stuck, You’ll halve to pull the nozzle out and clean things up. Unscrew the plunger out of the top of the Dome. Pull the dome and piston out of the carb body, soak the Nozzle in carburetor cleaner and unscrew the large round nut on the bottom of the carb as far as you can. Disconnect the lever arm that moves the nozzle up and down by removing the small screw in the base of the nozzle. This screw is usually to tight to brake loose with a small Phillips screw driver, if so, crack the screw loose with a small pare of needle nose Vice Grip pliers. Disconnect the small black hose between the float bowl and the nozzle. Be careful with this hose, new ones are hard to find, and nothing else works. Using a wooden dowel, and a wooden dowel only, tap, not beat, the nozzle with a light hammer, until it moves a little. Unscrew the nut as far as you can, and soak the Nozzle again, and tap some more. Repeat the process until the nut and spring come loose, and the nozzle comes out. This may take some time, Be patient, you will win. Use lots of carburetor cleaner, run the nozzle up and down in its bore until its smooth and free. Put every thing back together again. Now when you pull up on the lever, the nozzle moves up and down freely. Using a dial micrometer, (a cheap plastic one will work) set the depth of the nozzle in its bore to about .130" (3.3mm). This is a good starting point for your fuel mixture. The shoulder on the needle in the piston should be flush with the bottom of the piston. Use a straight edge to check it. If it is not flush, there is a setscrew in the side of the piston that locks the needle in place. Loosen the screw and move the needle in place with your fingers only. If you can’t move the needle with your fingers, don’t try anything else, you’ll just ruin the needle. You can’t hardly find those anymore either. If you can’t move the needle with your fingers, it’s most likely some fool has over tightened the setscrew and crushed the needle in place. Very common. Just snug up the setscrew and put the piston back in, and start looking for a good needle. Fill the piston damper with 20W oil. Every body has there own secret oil to put in the piston damper, but only 20W oil works correctly. Put the dome back on and make sure the piston moves up and down freely. If so, screw the plunger back in the top of the dome, and set up the other carburetor the same. Now, make sure your choke lever in the cab moves freely, and then push it all the way forward. At the carburetors, put the choke cables in place and move the lever on the carb up to take the slop out of the linkage and tighten the cable setscrew. Do the same on both carbs. Pull the choke lever about half way back and start the engine. It should be running about 1500 RPM or so, move the choke lever to get the engine speed around that number. Using some tool to measure the airflow through the carbs (I use a Uni-syn) Adjust the airflow through the carbs until both draw the same amount, by bending the dog leg shaped lever rod close to the carburetor body, that moves the throttle linkage when you pull the choke lever. You can bend this lever rod with a pare of common pliers and a twist. Grab the rod near the bend and bend the rod slightly to change the airflow. Open up the dogleg for less airflow, close up the dogleg for more airflow. Your chokes are now set up.
  3. How is the VVT actuated On the VQ35HR? Is it similar to the VG30DE, using a relay to actuate a couple of solenoids controlling oil flow? Or something more exotic?
  4. Thanks for the thread Challenger. That cleared up things nicely.
  5. In my wanderings around the various Nissan forums, In the chatter about the VQ motor, I keep seeing the term "rev up motor". And this "rev up motor" always seems to command a higher price. What the hell are they talking about?
  6. Actually, A stock 350Z running a 26.6" tire (245/45-18) a stock 3.54 diff. Raito, and in its .794 6th gear, would be turning about 2850 RPM at 80 MPH. Still loafing along for a 3500cc motor. I put the .862 5th gear in my Z32 box for performance reasons. Swinging a 25" tire with 3.90 diff raito, will give me 133 MPH in 4th gear and 154mph in 5th gear at 7000 rpm. YEE-HA! White knuckles in a 2300 pound Z!!
  7. HA! One problem solved! Thanks for that thread 70Z. Now all I have to do is hit the lottery. Speed is a terrible drug. It’s like what the Guru on top of the mountain told me (we got’em here in Oregon), "If it’s got tits or tires you’re gonna have problems".
  8. Hey guys, thanks for the in-puts! I feel better about the 6 speed now. Your right 240hoke, I was basing my concerns about the 6 speed on the early model syncro problems, I didn’t know Nissan had recalled them. And your right again, the Z32 box is big & heavy also! I have one sitting on my shop floor as we speak, and the thing has got to weight 120 pounds! Or at least that’s what my back keeps telling me. I’m afraid that thing is going to be a light press fit in my 70’ 240Z. I have a 280ZX tub sitting in my back yard, and I’m seriously considering cutting out the transmission tunnel and splicing it into the 240 (I love my plasma cutter!) to get some more room. I’ll be bolting it up to the VG30DE that’s been hanging off my engine stand the last couple of years. I became interested in the VQ motors when I found out they weigh about 120 pounds less than the VG30DE! Lighter is always better! I just got through rebuilding and modifying the Z32 box, It now has a .862 fifth gear out of a 4X4 truck, and a FSR30A (Nissan VG30I truck) two wheel drive tail shaft housing and shifter. The plan is to push the VG30DE as far back as possible, even to the point of cutting a couple of holes in the firewall to make room for the VVT solenoids to gain another inch. This will put the shifter about 1.5†ahead of the stock hole. I was hoping for an easy way to adapt my fresh Z32 box to a VQ, but it doesn’t look like that’s going to happen. I got to go with what I got, I can’t afford to change horses in the middle of the stream. Oh, and Wedge, no offence taken. I quit getting “offended†or “pissed off†about things years ago, and the quality of my life is much better now.
  9. I’ve read where some people have put VQ35DE Lower intake manifolds on their VQ30DE blocks, and the Maxima boys are putting VQ30DE heads on top of VQ35DE blocks. To me, this means the VQ30 and the VQ35 blocks have the sane deck height. Is this correct? Also, if you want to use a VQ engine in a rear wheel drive set-up with a manual transmission, your only choice is the 350Z 6 speed. I understand that the 6 speed is pretty much junk, until the 2006 model. A 2006 6 speed will probably cost you more than a VQ35DE engine. Plus it’s a huge overly complicated heavy gearbox, and its strength may still be in question. And I don’t feel a 6 speed is necessary behind a torquey motor like the VQ, if you stuff it in a light car. The strongest 5 speed gearbox that Nissan has made so far is the Z32 5 speed (the RS5R30A) which are plentiful and at a reasonable cost. But of course, it won’t bolt up to a VQ engine. Someone in this forum suggested that the front half of VQ33 4X4 gearbox case may bolt up to the Z32 box. Can any one confirm this? Dose any one make a adapter, like the slick set-up I see for a Z32 to a L28, to mount a Z32 to a VQ?
  10. I’m getting ready to install an EM4-6F Crank sensor on a VG30DE. I was poking around the front end of the motor looking for a place to mount a nice stiff bracket for the Hall sensor…there is not many places to choose from, and I’m not too crazy about mounting the thing behind the cam belt cover. Any ideas?
  11. Check your grounds. This system is very sensitive about it’s grounds. All the grounds between the manifold and the body must be clean & tight. Check your fuel pressure. It should be around 34 to 38 psi. Any more than that, check your fuel return line for blockage and check your fuel pressure regulator. Check the bellows between your airflow meter and your manifold. Any kind of leak here will cause problems. Good hunting.
  12. 11mpg?? That’s horrible! Check your fuel pressure. It should be around 34 to 38psi at idle. If your return line to the fuel tank is plugged your going to see 70 to 90psi, which will turn your fuel injectors into parts washers. Check your fuel pressure regulator too. Pull the vacuum line off the manifold that goes to the pressure regulator and suck on it (that’s not an insult). If you taste gas, most likely your pressure regulator is junk. I’ve seen both of these things wrong at the same time, so check them both. If you fix the problem, a new set of plugs plus an oil and filter change will be in order. You probably dumped more than couple of quarts gas in your crankcase if this has been going on long enough. Lets see…11mpg divided by $4.15 per gallon equals…OH MY GOD!
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