PseudoSport

Ended up building a fresh engine but might consider another set of flattops for a backup engine if they are cheap enough.

Bump, still looking for flat tops.

Bump.

I've been racing 24 hours of Lemons with my 280Z. The cooling system has been great but we have noticed oil pressure dropping at higher RPMS a few hours into the race. We're running 15w40 but i'm thinking the oil is getting too hot and thinning out. Changing the oil after the first days helps with pressure but I plan on installing an oil cooler for our next race to see if that helps. Figure it can't hurt. We also have six 14 hour races on the bone stock engine and its been holding together ok.

Our lemons car with Drag DR-54 wheels 15x7.5 with zero offset from Discount Tire Direct. The centers are actually a darker shade of bronze then the outer lip. We also have them in black and gold.

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Looking for a set of flat top pistons out of a 81-83 Datsun 280ZX 2.8L engine. I'm trying to put together a cheap high compression motor for our Lemons Car.

Yes, I eventually got a hold of the vendor and they shipped me the correct rear struts and let me keep the other ones. I had already installed the 240Z struts with a piece of pipe so i kept them in the car and did 3 races on those before swapping in the correct ones. Only reason I swapped in the correct ones is because I had the rear suspension apart anyway. Over all I'm happy with the setup and its held up well.

Sounds like they sent you 240Z shocks for the rear. What part number did you get? Below should be the correct ones. #552205 240Z rears #552206 260-280Z rears

I don’t have any new pictures since the car is kind of an eye sore but our team quad drove it for one autocross then dual drove it for 3 others. Over all we only put maybe a 1000 miles on it but so far so good. We plan to race Chump Car with it this coming Aug so hopefully I will have some more feedback after.

I say it dropped just over an inch. I didn’t really pay much attention to how much since I was more interested in the spring rates. I can take some measurements from the fender to the center of the wheels if that helps. Just note that the car is gutted, with a race seat, and a cage but still all the A/C components. Here is a picture from last month’s autocross before I did the suspension. Wheel gap is pretty big. This is right after in installed the springs and lowered it back on the ground. It has settled some since

Sorry for the late update. I was able to get a hold of John and he was able to sort everything out. The part numbers on the Stagg and brandcarparts sites were indeed mixed up but he was able to have it fixed the following day. Over all the ride is firm but not bouncy and the springs and shocks feel like they are well matched. This setup made a big difference at last weekend’s autocross and over all its working out nicely. For reference here are the correct applications. #552204 fronts for 240-280z and come with both gland nuts. #552205 240Z rears #552206 260-280Z rears Springs also available separately now on the site too. The car is not very presentable since it’s a Lemons/Chump build but here is a quick picture.

Yes I saw that they had the 552206 listed but as the front right shock only? I emailed Brand and Stagg along with leaving a voicemail for Stagg. So far no word back but its been less then 24 hours. I'm hoping they just mixed up all the numbers. The old gland nuts fit the new shocks fine and everything is tight with the spacer.

Alright, another update. Stagg shows #552205 listed for the front and #552204 for the rear. Also their website lists the same part numbers for the 240Z-280Z. I mentioned that the rear was too short but after I removed the front shocks I noticed the front Stagg ones were too long. Based on the part numbers on the boxed and on the shocks this is how they should go. 2 top shocks are front and 2 bottoms are rear. Now if I switch them around the Stagg 552204 fit the front perfect. It came with a large and a small gland nut in the box and the larger one fit. The 552205 is still 2” short for the rear and only came with a small gland nut that doesn’t fit the front or the back. Pic of the shocks swapped around. I ended up making a 2” spacer and reusing the old gland nuts to install all the shocks. Not thrilled I had to make them fit but it makes me question if they are even the right shock or valving for my car. I haven’t gotten the car back on the ground but here are some pic of the springs installed.

Ended up ordered a set of shocks and springs for my 280z Chump Car. Just started on the back and noticed the rear shocks are 3" shorter then the originals and did not come with any spacers. Can't find a phone # for brandcarparts.com but I sent them an email to see if they forgot to send the spacers. Going to start on the front and see if I have any other issues.

Where are the 280z springs listed for sale? I didn't see them on the website. Edit: looks like the shock and spring package are now on the site. Thanks for the link John. http://www.brandcarparts.com/shocks-and-struts/select-by-car/nissan/240z/280z/1975-1978-nissan-280z-stagg-shocks-struts-and-vogtland-lowering-springs-kit-1-25-drop.html

His user name over on the GRM forum is Wheels777. Try the link below to contact him. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/community/wheels777/

I appreciate the offer but I’d feel bad having you crawl under a car at the junkyard to pull the driveshaft. Also after your time, price of the part, and shipping it might be over my budget but thank you for checking for me.

Well I was supposed to pick up a driveshaft locally but after weeks of waiting I’m moving on. If you have an early 240Z drive shaft that’s 28 3/8†or slightly less please send me a PM. Thanks!

So I guess I’m looking for a driveshaft that’s 28 1/4" - 28 3/8†long. Let me know if you have one and are willing to ship it to zip code 02339. Thanks -Greg

So does that 240z shaft (744mm/29.29 inches) you have with the deeper yoke give me the same 1.5†of extra room I need like the 28 ¼†or are you saying I need the shorter shaft? Also thank you for taking the time to measure everything. This has been extremely helpful.

Hmm, if the short shaft is 21 1/8" from the u-joint centers with an other all length of 744mm (29.29 inches) and the longer shaft is 22 1/4" from the centers with an over all length of 755mm (29.7244 inches) the different in length is only 11mm (.4331) Shouldn’t the over all length be shorter by abot 35mm (1.378 inches) which the diff moved forward? Also if there is 1 1/8 inch difference from the u-joint centers how is the shaft only less then ½†longer? Is there also a difference in the flange or pinion length? I’m more just thinking out loud. The 28 1/4 shaft sounds like what I’m looking for

-Nelsonian I’m putting together a Grassroots challenge car so I’m trying to do this a cheap as possible. Normally I’d just spend the money on a new shaft but there is no room in my budget. At least I know MSA is an option if I can't find someone local to custom build one. -240zip From what I’ve been reading the 1970 driveshaft should be shorter. If you could take a picture and a quick measurement from the center of the u-joints that would be very helpful. This is all I have to go by for now.

Looking for a driveshaft from a 1970 - early 1971 240z so I can swap a 240sx transmission into my car. It should be about 21" from the centers of the u-joints. Thanks

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