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grannyknot last won the day on September 24

grannyknot had the most liked content!

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About grannyknot

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  1. grannyknot

    frame rails

    The Z is a 72, the engine and rad were from an 87 M6
  2. grannyknot

    WTB: hood prop clip

    Thanks, I've been looking for one.
  3. grannyknot

    frame rails

    I wish I had taken better pics, 1st one is before I welded in the cylindrical wall to close up the notch, 2nd pic the notch is in the lower left corner.
  4. grannyknot

    Where to Buy OBX diff / rear end build compatibility

    Well it's been a few years since I did it but off the top of my head your list looks right, the OBX you are looking for is 10528 and I just had a whiz around the net and I couldn't find one either, not even on the OBX site which is kinda strange. Maybe they discontinued because there wasn't enough demand? If you do find one you know that you will have to tear it down, replace the shitty washer springs and probably reverse the gears, right? I wish I could help more.
  5. grannyknot

    Newbie here

    Pics are mandatory, we all want to see the car, and welcome to the forum.
  6. grannyknot

    New to the Forums !

    Hey Techie, welcome to the forum. Looks like a very nice Z you picked up and the paint is in great shape, maybe just a cut and polish to bring out the depth. Did the PO cut the firewall at all? It just looks like the engine is sitting really far back.
  7. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    You'll find them necessary if you are ever in a flood, Nissan put them there as drain holes I think. Personally I never fill or eliminate stock holes because I am just the current owner, the car is definitely going to have other owners in the future and they may want to go back to original. Also I don't like the thought of being cursed at after I'm dead
  8. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    I say get all that work done before hand because you have such a short rust free window before it starts again. The place I used was these guys, https://www.technostrip.com/restoration.html
  9. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    Sand blasting and chem strip are good as far as they go but will leave all the metal rusting inside the frame rails and sub frame, I dipped my 240 and would do it again but would change the order of work that was needed. Dipping is going to remove 95-98% of the rust, you can never get the rust in the seams between the spotwelds but you will need to seal all that bare steel pretty quickly after the dip. The place I used sprayed the car with a water soluble rust inhibitor that was good for a week to ten days and it worked pretty well. If I did it again I would get ALL of the metal work/welding done before hand and have your shop ready to spray frame sealer inside and 2k primer on the outside. If you are using something like Eastwoods internal frame spray get way more than you think you need, I bought 3 cans and it wasn't even close, 7-8 cans were needed, it disappears quickly. It is a real treat not spending 3 months of your spare time scraping tar, paint, oil and undercoating off. The pics are the day she came out of the bath.
  10. grannyknot

    Chickenwing's 77 280Z

    Congrats, yeah she's a little rough but that just means you get to spend more time fixing it up, don't throw away that Auto transmission, the bell is worth something to guys installing the 350z 6 spd. Are you going to start a build thread?
  11. grannyknot

    Driveshaft is Stuck Good

    ^ This but before this heat up the nuts with Map gas (the yellow can) several times each and cool with penetrating fluid, yes there may be a small amount of flame but it only lasts a couple of seconds and you can blow it out easily. I find that heat is the only thing to break that bond.
  12. grannyknot

    Leveling Out an RB25 Engine Before Fabbing Mounts

    This is a great gadget that wish was around when I first started swapping engines, it saves a lot of time lying on back under the car. Digital inclinometer, don't buy the $13 ones, just crap, $25 and up for a decent one.
  13. grannyknot

    Leveling Out an RB25 Engine Before Fabbing Mounts

    I would concentrate on matching up the driveshaft angles, if those aren't perfect or close to it the car will be un driveable. You may have to lower the diff or tip it one way or the other and angle the engine/trans to point at the diff. When your drive shaft angles are perfect then that is when you start making the engine mounts, at least that is the way I do it.
  14. grannyknot

    ///M powered Z

    Hi Jeff, I'm near Tottenham, north of T.O., have you started your build thread yet? We are all about the pics around here, can never get enough. Edit, yes I found it, looking forward to your build. If you are interested in more detail on the ///MZ you could have a look here, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50240-thinking-about-installing-an-bmw-m6-engine-in-my-z/