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grannyknot last won the day on December 5 2017

grannyknot had the most liked content!

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About grannyknot

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  1. Really hard to say, to be sure you would have to scrape some of the undercoat off to get a better look at the metal, the d/s floor looks to me like it has had some patching done.
  2. My Carbon Fibre 280z!

    Miky, are going to bring it out to the OntZcar swapmeet in April? Would love to see it. Great work.
  3. R200 obx diff

    I went with the OBX and I'm very happy with it, of course I had to dis assemble it, clean the crap out and change the washers/bolts and reverse all the gears. I have one driving season on it plus a track day and it runs quiet, BUT I had a differential shop install in the R200 and set up the lash.
  4. Tim's 302Z

    Ah yes, bathtub caulking, a great automotive repair material, that means soon you will find wood screws holding panels together and Marretts connectors twisted in the wiring harness with thick gobs of electrical tape wrapped around them like Egyptian mummies. I wish I had taken more pictures.
  5. Tim's 302Z

    Man that is some serious rust, that's brave of you to tackle the doglegs. Is that wire mesh and bondo the PO fix you mentioned?
  6. engine bay upper body frame structure for a 240Z

    How about drilling out the spotwelds of that buckled piece, remove it, rework it, replace it? It will be easier than all the measuring you will have to do the other way, you could also add a stiffener on the inside where the bend was and you just know there is rust in there.
  7. engine bay upper body frame structure for a 240Z

    Unless you can see that buckle from the engine bay side you could get away with just boxing that bend in with some sheet metal to get the strength back. Just a thought.
  8. LS1 Powered 1973 Datsun 240z

    Congratulations, it is about time the prices of modified Z's started heading up.
  9. I started using this stuff on the bmw's and they have the same thing in 10w30 https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-20w-50-synthetic-motor-oil/
  10. Exactly! Anyone putting aftermarket additives in their oil should read this article. I only learned this myself last year so I'm not trying to pass myself off as an expert. 2 good quotes, "Why can’t the average racer simply purchase a ZDP supplement and significantly improve the cam and lifter durability of his oil? The primary reason is that the ZDP molecule is a complex chemical in which a metallic substance has been combined with a hydrocarbon to make the metallic material soluble in oil, and dissolving the ZDP into the oil is the key to maximizing ZDP performance. " "The safest way to ensure maximum camshaft and lifter protection is to purchase engine oils specifically compounded for your application. It’s always best to let an experienced oil formulator and blender put your oil together for you " Not trying to start the oil wars again
  11. I'm sure they are fine, once they are bolted down there is no movement. But seem to remember that the short ones, 3/4" are for the very early cars and the 1" spacers is for all the cars afterward. I think there is an explanation on MSA, I'm pretty sure they sell both.
  12. I agree, I used to use zinc additives for my old engines until I started talking to this very knowledgeable oil guy at a car show, he wasn't trying to sell me anything, never even got his card, anyway he was explaining that the type of zinc that is used in aftermarket additives is the inexpensive stuff and isn't in a form that can really be used as a lubricant. He said if you want a high zinc content use a quality oil that has a balance additive package that is aimed at the kind of use that your engine is going to see, makes sense to me.
  13. Primadonna Z #2 is on eBay

    That guy has been trying to sell that car for years, he just wants too much.
  14. ///M powered Z

    Been a long time since I up dated this thread, since the last post I spun a being at the track, had the engine rebuilt. That's what the track is for, to break things. Over the winter got a chance to clean up some things that I fast handed last year just to get it on the road. The last oil analysis reported a lot of sand and dirt in the oil so I got rid of the K&N filter and picked up a real paper filter from a 2008 Mustang, You know I never liked that splitter that I made last year, it wasn't wide enough to reach to the sides, so had another go at it. I'm going BOSOZOKOU ! Made some new clam shell pieces to clamp onto the bottom lip of the air dam,
  15. That doesn't look like it would take much to get it on the road. Ron, is that the engine and ECU you put into your old Red 240Z many years ago?