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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. Seat swap list for s30's

    You're most welcome.
  2. Seat swap list for s30's

    I didn't, the threaded studs that I welded to the bottom of the 350z sliders go through the stock mounting holes in your pic.
  3. Sbf or 2jzge turbo later

    I don't know about that, every new engine swap I do is always going to be the best one yet.
  4. Seat swap list for s30's

    The seat belt receiver, the part you click into is anchored to the seat but was useless to me since I was going with a different set of belts. I just removed it from the seat frame and tossed into the ever growing pile.
  5. Seat swap list for s30's

    and comfortable. The manual seats with no power are I guess about 35-40 lbs each.
  6. ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

    Yeah Mike at Whiteheads knows his stuff and since I pass the shop on my way to and from work I order my parts from them and pick them up on the way home.
  7. My recent barn find/ new member intro

    Looks like it would make a nice ratrod just the way it is, gotta get a big engine in there though, what are your plans for it?
  8. Seat swap list for s30's

    Don't know if this will help you but I tossed the stock sliders, cut of the tabs on the 350z seats and welded on threaded studs to the 350z sliders, easy install.
  9. Can I re-use lash pad when replacing a rocker?

    That will do it, glad you found the cause.
  10. EZ POWER STEERING works great!

    If I crash the front of the car it's my fault, I'll get what I deserve.
  11. ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

    Very nice work, the stitch welds are worth all the trouble, I did my car last winter and it has made a huge difference to the stiffness of the car, no squeaks anymore.
  12. EZ POWER STEERING works great!

    Wow, $1500 I think I have $140 into my electric steering system. We use to have a couple of good How To threads in the archives here but they seem to be gone now since the change over. Google search has few under "saturn electric steering"
  13. WTB: RHD Fairlady 240Z

    Sorry, only one per customer, if you wrecked it I'm not sure you deserve another
  14. Love it when the manufacture clearly labels the cam and main bearing caps.
  15. Gas Monkey 280z at SEMA

    Best looking 2+2 I have ever seen.
  16. Looks like you are taking apart the lock cylinder and tumblers, that is brave
  17. Low compression!!!

    Was your engine cold and the throttle butterflys closed? Engine must be up to temp, butterflys must be open.

    Try this, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/51280-caswell-plating/?tab=comments#comment-467409
  19. Old pictures only show as name.jpg

    They are gone, stolen by Photosuckit.
  20. " left side only , damaged ( crack ) , repairable and paintable " I didn't know you could paint your headlight covers!
  21. Project Binkey

    As good as Project Binky is they don't have Fun Facts with Mrs. Jeff so can never really compete with Home Built
  22. A question about OBX helical

    It certainly looks like the right one but make sure you confirm with the part # I would say you should disassemble not only to make sure the gears are in the right orientation but also to replace those cheesy washers that OBX uses, they won't last if you don't replace them.
  23. Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    Hey your doglegs aren't too bad, at least the shape is still there so if you can't save the metal itself you will have a template for the patch.
  24. Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    jkelly, as far as Ospho (Phosphoric Acid) goes, you have to eliminate as much of the rust as you can, if you apply it to well established rust like on your brake booster it will never get down to bottom of the corrosion. A bench mounted wire wheel or even some 60grit paper will break that crust on the rust and allow the Ospho to get down to the bottom. The white powder won't show up for a couple of days until it has dried completely and your right, paint will never stick to that, it must be washed off. Getting rid of as much rust as possible is always the best method, Ospho is better than nothing but it won't penetrate heavy rust.
  25. Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    Actually I suggested blasting because you had already done the bottom, I had my Z dipped, the shell and the hood. If I were to do it again I would have done as much as I could of the body work and rust patching BEFORE the dip. The car was sprayed with a water soluble rust inhibitor immediately after the dip which is good for a week maybe two then it starts to rust so you have to be fast. I used the Eastwood inner frame spray to coat all of the areas you can't see or get to then 2 part epoxy primmer for the rest of the car. These pics were taken hours after it came out of the neutralizing tank.