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Everything posted by grannyknot

  1. grannyknot

    Newbie here

    Pics are mandatory, we all want to see the car, and welcome to the forum.
  2. grannyknot

    New to the Forums !

    Hey Techie, welcome to the forum. Looks like a very nice Z you picked up and the paint is in great shape, maybe just a cut and polish to bring out the depth. Did the PO cut the firewall at all? It just looks like the engine is sitting really far back.
  3. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    You'll find them necessary if you are ever in a flood, Nissan put them there as drain holes I think. Personally I never fill or eliminate stock holes because I am just the current owner, the car is definitely going to have other owners in the future and they may want to go back to original. Also I don't like the thought of being cursed at after I'm dead
  4. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    I say get all that work done before hand because you have such a short rust free window before it starts again. The place I used was these guys, https://www.technostrip.com/restoration.html
  5. grannyknot

    Bodywork game plan for new project

    Sand blasting and chem strip are good as far as they go but will leave all the metal rusting inside the frame rails and sub frame, I dipped my 240 and would do it again but would change the order of work that was needed. Dipping is going to remove 95-98% of the rust, you can never get the rust in the seams between the spotwelds but you will need to seal all that bare steel pretty quickly after the dip. The place I used sprayed the car with a water soluble rust inhibitor that was good for a week to ten days and it worked pretty well. If I did it again I would get ALL of the metal work/welding done before hand and have your shop ready to spray frame sealer inside and 2k primer on the outside. If you are using something like Eastwoods internal frame spray get way more than you think you need, I bought 3 cans and it wasn't even close, 7-8 cans were needed, it disappears quickly. It is a real treat not spending 3 months of your spare time scraping tar, paint, oil and undercoating off. The pics are the day she came out of the bath.
  6. grannyknot

    Chickenwing's 77 280Z

    Congrats, yeah she's a little rough but that just means you get to spend more time fixing it up, don't throw away that Auto transmission, the bell is worth something to guys installing the 350z 6 spd. Are you going to start a build thread?
  7. grannyknot

    Driveshaft is Stuck Good

    ^ This but before this heat up the nuts with Map gas (the yellow can) several times each and cool with penetrating fluid, yes there may be a small amount of flame but it only lasts a couple of seconds and you can blow it out easily. I find that heat is the only thing to break that bond.
  8. grannyknot

    Leveling Out an RB25 Engine Before Fabbing Mounts

    This is a great gadget that wish was around when I first started swapping engines, it saves a lot of time lying on back under the car. Digital inclinometer, don't buy the $13 ones, just crap, $25 and up for a decent one.
  9. grannyknot

    Leveling Out an RB25 Engine Before Fabbing Mounts

    I would concentrate on matching up the driveshaft angles, if those aren't perfect or close to it the car will be un driveable. You may have to lower the diff or tip it one way or the other and angle the engine/trans to point at the diff. When your drive shaft angles are perfect then that is when you start making the engine mounts, at least that is the way I do it.
  10. grannyknot

    ///M powered Z

    Well, I think I'm a step closer to my 240Z///M. I let the ad for the 87/M6 lapse, just can't deal with one more lowballer. The question now is do I sell my turn key Z that is finished and find another neglected Z to start over with or pull the L28 and tranny from this car and install the M goodies? The money from the sale of my current Z would allow me to do any kind of build I could think of, but then, I hate selling. Chris
  11. grannyknot

    ///M powered Z

    Hi Jeff, I'm near Tottenham, north of T.O., have you started your build thread yet? We are all about the pics around here, can never get enough. Edit, yes I found it, looking forward to your build. If you are interested in more detail on the ///MZ you could have a look here, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50240-thinking-about-installing-an-bmw-m6-engine-in-my-z/
  12. grannyknot

    S30 Rear Diff Details

    I think this is it, page 3 halfway down, In 1997 I had completed and was campaigning the LT1/T56 powered 240z http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/52346-lt1t56-240z/ Bob Maggio had completed the same swap in a 280z roughly six months prior but, as far as anyone knows, it had never been done in a 240. There was no documentation and no HBZ. I was having problems tearing the diff mount. I don't recall how many mounts I tore or how many band-aids I applied. What I remember is, Friday afternoon, 'busting another'... with a race scheduled for Saturday. At the time, I was much more fanatical, and this was an EMERGENCY dammit! All I had on hand was some scrap aluminum, a MIG machine, and a local, cheap auto parts house. In desperation I built the ugliest diff mount in history. If you've ever welded aluminum with a MIG machine, you'll likely empathize with that sort of 'fun'. I was gun shy and concerned about tearing the isolators again. The long nose R200 has four holes right? Why not *TWO* turbo 350 mounts? So there it was, in all it's funk... two trans. mounts, on top of the diff, mated to a soda can bridge, a few hours before flag down. It survived the race. At the time, I was also struggling with driveline vibrations. This led to further experimenting. Pinion angles, lower contact areas, shaft material, and so on. In the end, I built a steel 'bridge' with a single, shim-able, GM mount. I was on mount number three or four by this time. It was simple and I was making progress. I don't recall the specifics, but I remember a few of us talking long distance. JohnC, Rags, Ross Corrigan, Pete Paraska, Jim Biondo, BRAAP, etc. This was before HBZ's time. In fact, it was before Internet forums were generally in vogue. Pete and I began discussing this very topic, and I shared my 'experiment'. He asked me to replicate it for him. So, I made ONE more, expressed my desire to avoid production, and asked him to keep the cost to himself ($20.00!). Pete kept his promise, and posted the mount and prints on his website. Regarding the donation, my relationship with Roostmonkey is top secret The few I built for myself are destroyed. Does this make Pete's a collector item?
  13. grannyknot

    Dash repair 78 280Z

    That is probably Vintage Dashes? They have a nice product but for me on the other side of the continent and a different country the price is... a lot. I think that layer of carbon fiber is going to make all the difference, a few guys that have followed similar dash repair procedures are starting to see cracks along the old cracks. I'm planing on using a weave carbon fiber so those valleys never show up again. Who has the ugliest dash?
  14. grannyknot

    Fender frame? What is this called?

    I didn't know it had a name I just saw some aftermarket bolt on "horns" for newer imports and thought that to make them really effective that they should be welded into the car. I put a bmw s38 in the Z and that bloody engine is so tall I knew I would never get a strut tower brace over top so started looking for other ways to stiffen the front. As it turned out the car is much stiffer now then it would have been with just a strut tower brace.
  15. grannyknot

    Dash repair 78 280Z

    Very nice, there's a few hours. Mine looks similar to yours at the start, was the bedliner in a rattle can or sprayed by one of the Linex places? What brand of padded dash filler did you use? I was thinking about using carbon fiber as well, good job.
  16. grannyknot

    Fender frame? What is this called?

    Here is a later pic with everything welded in, I think I did what you are recommending.
  17. grannyknot

    Stock TB for 7000rpm, ~200whp?

    And the exhaust ports and header.
  18. grannyknot

    Ron Tyler diff mount installed

    I have only ever done Option 1 and it works well, I like to have to the poly snubber on top actually touching the diff so there is as little room for it to move as possible.
  19. grannyknot

    Fender frame? What is this called?

    That top frame box is a very difficult piece to find, you maybe able to find a used one from a wrecked Z but they are hard to come by. I would drill out the spot welds on that piece, remove it and repair it as best you can. Here is some of the reinforcement I did to my car. Nothing was welded yet , just test fitting.
  20. grannyknot

    Oil in cylinder, retorque HG?

    A valve seal may not have been pushed on all the way, or a broken ring. You could retorque but it probably won't help, one way or the other the head has to come off but a compression and leak down test is what you need right now.
  21. grannyknot

    '77 280Z - wonky doors

    Do you think there is a possibility the car was twisted while the rockers and quarters were off?
  22. grannyknot

    Three question-points about 13b-powered S30s

    I don't know of any rotary s30's but I'm pretty sure those will have to be custom built engine mounts, what is often done is you start with either the s30 steel and rubber engine mounts or the Mazda steel/rubber engine mounts and then just weld together an adapter to match them up. The Mazda forums would be your best place for answers on rotarys.
  23. grannyknot

    How to remove black oil spot from the seat!!??

    I thought I would give it a full month to let the grease soak in, the red grease is Redline assembly lube, the dark grease is from wiping my finger around the ball joint of my DD. The fabric came out much better than I thought it would, there is still a light stain from the dark grease and the Redline is almost certainly just the dye in the lube. If these were cleaned off soon after it happened I'm sure you would see no traces. This was done with clean white T shirt cotton and Brakekleen, keep rubbing until the cotton comes away clean.
  24. grannyknot

    240Z Battery Area Advice

    I like this suff, it says once it is mixed you have 4 days but if it is warm you get about 2 days. I have put a half a can in the fridge and it was still usable 10 days later. Muriatic doesn't convert rust, it removes it, then when it is rinsed off it will flash rust so fast you can watch it. Nasty stuff, I have never found a way to neutralize it, it seems to get into the steel and continue rusting under the primer. Phosphoric acid (Ospho) is the best to use.