Northstarninja

Cool thanks bud

Oh, your car has a VqHr? Just build that. It's a great block. Wish I had that motorset. Same block as the VqVhr. Difference is in the crank/stroke. Hr -It has cam timing on Intake and exhaust. Similar to the vqde revup, tho iirc the cam sensors are in the back of the engine? Vhr cam timing and variable lift on intake, no variable exhaust timing iirc. You would need an entire vhr engine, harness and ecu, *maybe* cluster?, *Maybe* auto trans computer? Trying to think of all the things on the can-bus. The bolt pattern for the trans is the same on the hr/vhr, so it should work. The two *maybes* are idk if nissan can-bus systems check for serial#s in the different components. I think the hr trans and cluster will work if the Nats is removed, but that's a question for a tuner. Tbh if I had an HR I'd happily build that. If you want the extra displacement, swap the crank/rods/pistons out of the vhr into the vqhr

@rturbo 930 It's a shame their website doesn't work. With the lack of s30 chassis these days I would be super interested in a fiberglass one. *Edited for my crappy typing*

@rturbo 930 thanks! Gonna read that now!

Something to consider, if you haven't already: If I remember the article correctly, even the NISMO Z have issues with brake fade. Despite Nissan tech team switching to higher temp synthetic fluid they still overheated- it only worked as a band aid. While the NiSMO has bumper provisions for brake ducting it doesn't have actual ducting. Your car likely already has this addressed but its worth a mention.

I've been looking into this as well. The difficulty comes to the wiring, You have to take the ALL wiring harness and all electronics from the donor car and splice/fab one for the g35 chassis. Basically if you don"t the NATS system will lock the car out. The NATS can be bypassed by sending out your ecu to have it deleted. A few places do this, it's usually about $350. Also the g35 transmission doesn't bolt up to a Vq35 HR or Vq37 VHR so you'll need that also. Most people also ditch the internal clutch mechanism for an external- they're far more reliable especially with aftermarket clutches. To be honest, it's likely easier to sell the VQ37 VHR and get a vqde short block. freshen it up with new bearings, ARP hardware for the crank and rods and get a set of aftermarket forged pistons. You'll have a solid short block and can go from there.

Hello everyone. I've been away for a few years, got married, sold my s30 (I regret it every day) and got out of cars in general. A month ago a friend gave a project car, and somehow a month later have both a 240sx and G35 project cars. Another S30 is next on the list, as I have a dream I can't let go of. Anyways, I was telling a friend about HybridZ- and how this forum is unlike any other I have found , ever. The amount of collective knowledge and skill here is't to be found among car people these days. I was telling my friend about a chopped 240z thread (which I found.) I'm also looking for a thread about a guy who made an s30 chassis entirely out of fiberglass. If I remember correctly he was from England and made boat hulls for a living. I've tried searching to no avail, and don"t remember which part of Hybrid Z the thread was located in. Any help is appreciated.

I followed this build almost a decade ago, and was mentioning it to a friend today. I was telling my friend that the various members here on hybrid are quite unique in their passion and drive, coupled with quests for knowledge. Also the skill caliber is much higher here than with other forums and cars. Unfortunately I sold my S30 when I got married and moved years ago. regret giving up on that dream ever since. I'm so glad you followed your vision and got her completed. She's exquisite, and inspirational. Bravo to you sir!

Nice car I miss my Z, I had to sell it when I moved to PA years ago.

No worries, I'm just happy to see another Z enthusiast out here in Pittsburgh. I had to sell my 260z when I moved to PA 4 years ago

you still have this car?

That's interesting, and good to know- I always figured that the 6th gear would be more of a longer gear. Mostly since my ka is screaming at 3500rpm at an 80 mph cruise. Newer cars seem in general seem to be much lower in rpm at higher speeds, I'm assuming for fuel economy. IIRC the sr trans gear ratios are closer than the ka's so why they crammed another gear in there is beyond me... 6speeds will usually be weaker than a 5 speed in the same space- but I didn't know guys were blowing up s15 gearboxes on stock cars...

Too bad you don't like RB's. If I had a 20k budget I'd look into a RB30det. RIPS has a sick rb30 powered s30 in New Zealand. Other than that, a KA24de will not hold the power you're looking for without a forged bottom end. The pistons in ka's don't like boost... A SR20det block can hold about 400-450rwhp before it should be sleeved for reliability. If you're gonna do a rotary, why not do a 4 rotor? Idk about prices in regards to rotory motors though... From what I've read you bolt the 4 housings together, but need a 4 rotor chankshaft... though with the custom parts it may be over budget. When you say "track" is it a circuit track, or a dragstrip? The application obviously makes a difference

I would have to disagree, partially. Dohc engines (at least 4 cyls and I6) generally last longer than push rod engines. I've seen honda and nissan motors with well over 200k. Pushrod v8's are still chain driven, and (obviously) have a pushrod that actuates a rocker- more parts to fail. A OHC or DOHC motor that has the cam act directly on the cam bucket would have less parts. Chains in street cars rarely break, so having two of them isn't really much of an issue... That said I do see the merit of the push rod v8. In fact the ls motors are pretty sweet IMO- they get very good gas mileage for their displacement, and are constantly being refined.

Wow, I just read through this thread, and even though its old, I'll add my $02- the l28et will be cheaper... at first. I imagine the sr gets way better fuel economy and management as the engine is newer. The SR also has great aftermarket support, which is pretty cheap. The SR is lighter. And the pistons and rods are pretty decent from the factory. My favorite thing about an SR swap is that you can get a S15 6speed. As far as an sr not having enough power to move a ZX I call BS on that one. IIRC a 280zx weighs about 2800 lbs- which is close to both the s13 hatch (180sx in japan) and s14.

once again, domestics putt through for the budget build... Viper, as in dodge viper? I didnt know they used t56 transmissions... unless the t56 is build by a 3rd party...

yeah. Reliable= win. cheap performance parts= win. lots of power/tq= win. I guess its a win/win/win situation, lol. My cousin told me its not hard to go 10's with a f bodyw ls1. I told him if the standard is .1 second faster for every 100lbs lost, then the 1000 lb less Z should run 9's. LOL... I guess the hard part is getting it to hook... On a separate note, it seems that the f body t56's aren't all that great, that the GTO Ls1 t56 is stronger for whatever reason? why is that? I'm still debating whether to run a 6 speed or auto... itd be nice to cruise around at highway speeds without the engine screaming...

thanks Brrap! I was wondering because my Cuz said the ls2's had drive by wire throttle, which reminded me of the newer Z's, which are Can/Bus. @ Sunny, I'd be doing the work myself... maybe I'll just do a compression test to see if the bottom end is good. If its not, I'll try to score a ls1 shortblock out of a late f-body or gto. Ls1tech.com seems t have alot of parts for sale/trade. What seems weird to me is that domestic performance parts seem a lot cheaper, (inexpensive) than import aftermarket. +1 for domestics!

he said he might sell his Goat and get a later Ls2 powered GTO... any one know if the Ls2 is a can/bus setup?

high mileage motor, probably needs a rebuild... if its its a go, free lsx. needs accessories ecu harness trans etc... its a 6.0L truck motor, lol... iron block, but i wont mind the extra 70 lbs in a car as light as a s30...

update, my cousin just texted me, he may have a free lsx for me...

I recently drove my cousins LS1 GTO and was rather impressed with the motor. Nice tq and linear power. The car was nice an all, but seemed a bit on the heavy side. I've ridden in his 99 LS6 powered Ws6 before as well, and really liked that car. Basically, I'm here to learn about LS1, and LS2 as options for a motor swap. Price, performance and strength/ reliability for upgrades. I'm currently trying to figure out if the LS2 is worth the money over a LS1... To be honest, either motor is over kill for the car its going in, but overkill= good IMO. I'm looking at LSx options for a 74' 260Z. Immediate goals would be sourcing/installing Lsx, and getting it to 350-400whp.

I wonder if itd work better if the hood traveled maybe 2mm forward before swinging up... Don't mind my crappy diagram, I'm not much of an artist... hood hinge.bmp

*bump* Anyone have any flairs we missed? Can we get this stickied?

sweet build... I'm interested to see how the s12 subframe works with the Z and the s14 knuckles... this might sound like a stupid question, but how do you make a rotisserie out of engine stands? like obviously you'd have to makes arms that bolt to the frams and the hub of the stand, but are the stands high enough to be able to fully rotate the car?