RB240z

Very clean indeed! Nice work.

Jeremy, Thanks so much for your time, patience and persistence. We owe you a ride when the car is finished, and of course, some beers! -Ryan

A slight bump to this thread... BRAPP, when will we see this "very custom" head you speak of?

Check out Myron's car: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135728 I have not weighed them, but I believe they are around 19lbs...I'll try to get a close number (read: crappy bathroom scale) for the 9.5 and 9 tonight.

What metal stock did you use for your spreader plates? I'm thinking of trying to add some structural pieces much like yours and am wondering what is the best course of action. I currently have some 1.5 .120 DOM sitting around just itching to go to good use ... Also, how are you mounting your radiator now? Any other pics?

Joe, Glad to see you held onto the 810! Let me know if you need some wrenching help...I've been meaning to get up your way and check out the 240 for a while. So any chance she'll be ready for showing at ye ol Burger King out my way? -Ryan

Word of note, my 72 came with an "ATK" crate L28 (P90A F54) ....original owner had replaced the L24 when it hit 170K miles. It definetly has some solid compression for a N/A setup....with 70K miles it puts about 180-190psi per cylinder and could get a otherwise stock SU'd 240 to mid 14's. I have never opened it up to look at pistons though.

Very good point, thank you sirs!

Anybody here have some good ideas for compression testing an L28 while it's out of the car? I removed mine from a non-running donor last week, and wanted to check the general health before deciding which direction to go with it. Problem is that I can't get a flywheel + starter to fit on the motor while it's on my engine stand. Could turn it over with a 27mm on an impact, but figured that might hurt things? Any ideas/thoughts are greatly appreciated. Happy Holidays

Hey Guys, I searched around, but didn't find anything specific.... Originally, I smoked my fusible link from the starter to the main hot lead. I cleaned all my connections and replaced the link with one from my parts car....and then the Ammeter finally shorted and blew up, and fryed another fusible link. So now, I have removed my Ammeter from the path completely and am in search of a quick fusible link replacement, as I won't be able to get one before this weekend. Would a 30amp inline fuse be a decent replacement for the original? I don't have any "slow blow" fuses, but I have some regular 30amps and one barrel 60amp. I don't want screw anything up just assuming. My car is a 72 240z....all electrical is stock. Any help or advice is much appreciated! -Ryan

Corrosion in my fusible link connector (starter to main hot lead) caused my 240 to die a few weeks back, which in turn smoked my AMP gauge. Weird thing is, the gauge still works! I cleaned out all connections under the hood and replaced my fusible link....cranked the car and the AMP readings look bouncy and "normal". I'm wondering if I need to pull the dash and give the AMP meter the axe! Thoughts anybody?

Hey guys, I recently had to have my 240z towed (via flatbed) which required removing my fiberglass MSA airdam to reach the stock tow location. I'm looking to fab up a 1/4" thick - flat tow hook that extends out beyond the front air dam....possibly through it. Has anybody here done something similar? Keeping in mind, I want to have the ability to flat tow at the track if something breaks....also, are there any materials you used or reinforcements made to avoid screwing up the frame rails? Thanks, Ryan