jessejames

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Anyone have one thats willing to ship to Canada?

I'm looking for R200 3.9 or a 4.11.

yes i have an autometer boost gauge. I usually hit 7psi on it. I did a compression test. I let it crank 4 times. It came up with 145psi in all four cylinders.

I've got the stock ECU. I Believe its out of a 1994 180sx.

i've not had a chance to check compression yet as i've got a big exam this weekend, but I recall that my boost gauge hits 7psi. Is it possible that the rear end ratio is reducing the power? I'm running the stock 3.3 on the 240z. I think the sr20's are usually paired with 4.08s. Any other suggestions?

would timing retarded reduce your power? and what should the compression be? When i bought the motor it was tested then, and the guy I was with said it matched his fine. All i remember was the number was the same is all four cylinders.

I have a s13 1994 SR20DET blacktop. I have the following mods: 3" Full Exhaust with Cat. Ebay special FMIC with 3inch piping. HKS SSQV Walbro 255 fuel pump. Running stock boost at 7psi. I'm still using the stock 240z Rear end. 3.3somthing I had more car dynoed this past weekend. I put 186hp and 176ft'lb of torque. Do these numbers seem right to you? I had a found a link to import tuner http://www.importtuner.com/powerpages/0804_impp_1991_nissan_240sx/1991_nissan_240sx_fmic_blitz_boost_controller.html They had 214 at the wheels. Is my SR a dud?

Hey all, I have a 73 240z. I removed the heater core and fan to clean it up. When i reinstalled it the blower wont work. It was working before I removed it. I think i may have missed a connection on it. Does anyone have a picture of the connections required to make it work. Thanks

Hi Canadianz , my car was in Greg's shop about 2 months ago. He cleaned up some the wiring for me. I started my swap in fall 2007. I did most of the swap at home with friends. The wiring was beyond me so i had greg finish up what my friends had started. by the way do you have your car out yet? I'm thinking of waiting until may 1st. JohnC How heavy of a spring do i need to skip having the rear sway bar. Is there a thicker front sway bar I can run? I'm afraid I might not have room in the rear for rear sway bar.

i really like the sr20, ive been a few tuned 240sx's. I also love the sound of the stock straight six. I just need to meet more guys with 240z and actually experience different suspension setups. I guess i'm just afraid of making the wrong choice. I think I'm going to order the front 1" sway bar and the red koni's with groundcontrol coilvers. Spring rates F250 R200. Or do you think I should go slightly stiffer?

thanks for the response Johnc. Do you think heavier springs in the front will be more forgiving? Is there a newer car that the 240z will handle similar too? In your opinion would you still go with the follow: I found this old thread where you state East Coast (generally for faster, smoother tracks) 250 to 350 lb. in. front springs. 200 to 300 lb. in. rear springs. 50 lb. in. difference in front and rear springs with the rears being softer. 25 to 27mm front anti-roll bar. 17mm rear anti-roll bar optional Since I probably wont be running a rear sway bar, and my car is a toy car for street/autox.

I've searched and I found small pieces of information in different threads but nothing concrete. This might be in the wrong forum but I figured most of you Sr20 guys hang out here. I read in a post from John C. that the cars corners weight shifts back slightly. So were looking at 48F to 52 Rear. I'm not very familiar with the handling of 240z. I had mine on the road for a month before i started the Sr20det swap. My swap is pretty much done. I've just got to tidy up some of the wires. My next point of focus is the suspension. My current is the original suspension. I think I'm going to be installing Groundcontrol coilovers with Koni's. I'm not certain of what spring rates to use. I thought that heavier springs in the front made sense in a front engine car. I read a thread where John C. made a comment about heavier springs in the front making sense for cars with more power. My last car was a first generation MR2 and It was a blast to drive. The mr2 had a weight distribution of 44.5F to 55.5rear. Do you think the 240z will handle like the mr2 at its limits?? the mr2 used to understeer near its limits and then snap oversteer if pushed beyond. My car is going to be a street/ auto X car. At some point in a year or two I would love to compete in the newfoundland targa. I want a fun car to drive. Not a car i'm afraid of. The S2000 was one of the best cars i've ever driven stock. I want somthing predictable and fun while still being a contender at the autoX events. I should also mention that I dont think I will be able to install a rear sway bar in my car. I installed the fuel cell alittle close the diff. Its not been a problem but I fear that a sway bar may not fit. I wont know until later this summer when i get the car on a hoist. Any input would be appreciated.

just wondering what people are running with sr20's in 240z. please post time and mods.

i've posted a quick vid on youtube. Its just a quick pass. The car had only been out of the garage for a couple of days, so we were taking it easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mp209LDyfPk

The car is now up and running. I took her for just a short boot down the street. Its too loud to do anything right now. I get the exhaust put on Monday. Hopefully I can get her out to the next Ontario Z club meet. Thanks to all who have helped.

I've checked the vacuum lines and they seems fine. I'm adding a fuel pressure gauge to check that today. The new plugs i put in yesterday are black. Is it possible that my fuel system is overpowering the stock fpr and causing the car to run rich? I have a walbro 255 pump with -8 feed line. The injectors are stock as is the fpr. I've modifed the fuel rail to accept -8 feed line and -6 return line? How do i check to see if my stock MAF is working correctly?

I dont think its the fuel pump. When i give it more throttle it seems to rev fine. Its only around idle. Sometimes when I give it gas it seems to what to give up and then the moment i close it it revs up like a delayed reaction. I have a walbro fuel pump with atl Fuel Cell. I'm running hardlines under the car and braided lines in the hatch and engine bay. No leaks from the fuel system.

I was running the car today and it sputters alot at idle. It was running fine at one point and then started. I've check all the vacume lines. I've checked the intercooler pipes. Sometimes it sounds like its going to die but does not. Other times it does. If i give it WOT it seems fine. I had a a friend whos a GM mechanic look at it today and he thinks its the number four sparkplug. I have not replaced any of the sparkplugs yet. I will be doing that tommorow. ANy other suggestions? S13 BLACKTOP SR20DET 1994 1973 240Z. MOTOR'S ALL STOCK.

Originally I went to Tigerjdm. I wanted a blacktop s14. I had purchased a 4age from them a few years ago and so thats why i went back. All the s14s were located under the s13s and the employees were too lazy to move any of the engines for me to have a look at one. So I went to a place just around the corner but I can't remember the name of the place. Make sure you do a compression test on the spot. Also check inside the intercooler pipes for oil. They wash the engines, so its a little hard to know what shape there in. I paid $1800 CAD. That included the engine, tranny, ecu, wiring harness, ignitor chip. Thats a blacktop s13. I think the place i bought it from was http://www.torontojdm.com , although i'm not 100% sure. Also if you pay cash its going to be cheaper than what they advertise. I've attached a few pics. There better quality than earlier ones.

I think i found those wheels at HRE p40s and they look amazing. It looks like they only make sizes for Porsche. Any idea if you can get them for Z cars? any pics of them on a z car?

and if so what are they?

The pic from the gas station is from last year before i put it away. I've started the engine. That was a huge relief. Here are the things i've got left to do. Shorten Driveshaft Finish intercooler piping Get exhaust made up wire the speedo, tach, wideband o2 gauges. and put some plastic pieces of the interior back in. I'm hoping to have it back on the road in the next couple of weeks. The car is a 73 240z. In terms of what you need: Make sure you have a large budget and even more patience. I am finding the wiring the hardest part of the whole job. Thankfuly I've had a lot of help. Your going to need motor and tranmission mounts. I bought mine from http://www.whiteheadperformance.com in toronto ontario. You can also get them from http://www.vildinimotorsport.com and http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com You will need intercooler, piping, exhaust, You need your drive shaft shortened. I ran a fuel cell. You might be able to use your stock gas tank if its Fuel injected. I'm not sure what size your fuel lines are but you may want to get bigger ones. I'm running Earl's hardlines under the car and the braided stuff in the trunk and engine bay. Your going to need a new fuel pump. If you want to keep your heater core, your going to need some custom shaped lines. Theres lots of little things. If i think of more i'll post. Or just ask.

Delta Spring & Chassis want $300 to cut shorten and balance the driveshaft. Is that reasonable? Anybody else with sr20s have measurements as to what they shortened it by? I know where all going to be a little different depending on the mounts. I just want a general idea. I mounted the motor as far back as i could. Any info would be helpful even if it just eases my mind.