jkh280zx

T5 manual transmission Photo attached

Shanks, Have a Nissan T5 manual transmission that has been remanufactured via a Memphis machine shop (purchased two; one went into my next 280zxt). T5 is located in Paragould, AR. Stored indoors. Photo available, if interested. jkh280zx

The journey has come to an end. During Labor Day vacation, I drove to Paragould (AR) to see the on-going upgrades to my 1983 280zxt. The following pictures were taken. Much progress has been made and Stage 1 is almost complete as noted in the last photo. I sat in the new leather seats for the first time; all electrical components worked; shifted through the gears; checked out the new speakers (larger than OEM) in the back; the black dashboard and the interior looked great; and the LoneWolf IM looked great under the hood. The pictures tell it all. All chrome pieces, rear mirrors, valve cover, OEM wheels (grooves sprayed gold), rear window louvers and front-rear bumpers were carbon-coated black. As noted in the left picture, a piece was cut out of the radiator frame to allow for the turbo IC tubes (same sided IC) and the air cooler to run to their corresponding parts. Lonewolf is ready for its component parts; OEM heat screen will be used; fuel injector leads and the electric modifications need to be hooked up; and the IM looks great with the new carbon-coated valve cover. I am really pleased with the work that Rick (The Shop) has done to finish out Stage 1. October 2, 2011: Now the bad news; James (Jim’s Auto Machine Shop in Paragould) called me tonight; there was a fire at Rick’s home while he was away this morning and his home was completely destroyed; the whole second floor felled down onto Rick’s Shop where my Zcar was located. Fortunately, no-one was hurt. I want to thank all in HZ who helped me make the critical decisions; especially, John and Paul. Thanks to Chris for almost all the interior parts. Thanks to Rick and James for their skills and so many contributions too numerous to relate involving this journey. I know that I am not the only one who has lost a Zcar; however, she had been with me since 1984. Her journey was my journey. John

Specs of Lonewolf (LW) intake manifold (IM) purchased & runners inter-diameter of an OEM IM (83’ 280zxt). LW IM purchased via JR (spork) (http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/Nissan.htm) Notes: the TB opening is 65 mm (above left); the 240sx TB (to be attached to the LW IM) is 60 mm; the OEM TB opening is 52 mm; and the vacuum ports as noted (above right) are located on the lower side of the plenum, which will make the engine bay have a less cluttered appearance. Personal Communication from James (LWP): “As for the specs on the manifold, I don’t have a “spec sheet†of sorts, … They change based on the customers needs. I know you don’t have the intake in front of you to do your own measurements, but they can be easily measured with a tape measure. The measurements of the inside of the plenum is 20†long and approx 3.75†diameter. To figure volume it gets tricky as there is also the velocity stack plate that protrudes into the plenum area slightly. Without figuring in the velocity stack plate your intake has approx 222.16 CI or 3.64 Liters. The runner length …you’ll have to do yourself, or have the shop that is installing the manifold do for you. (The Shop: runners length - 8.25“). Inside diameter was approx 35mm. (The Shop: 34.5 mm left to right as noted above). TB angle was using approx a 45 degree bend but it is angled in the direction it was welded to the manifold as well to make it easier for running intercooler piping.†Post #19 (spork) via James Roraback & Lonewolf Performance http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/52826-intake-decisionslonewolf-vs-thagard-vs/page__p__472197__hl__%2Bintake+%2Bdecisions...lonewolf+%2Bvs+%2Bthagard+%2Bvs+%2B%3F%3F%3F__fromsearch__1#entry472197 “The question(s)…what kind of work have you done to the head? Do you have any flow numbers? As a lot of people don't understand…is that the intake is just part of the picture. I'd be curious as to how the head is really set up and that can really help determine what you actually need. One of the benefits of our intake is the options in runner size, length, and just about anything else you can think of. For the high powered turbo cars, we step up the runner size to allow the head to be opened up (as well as the gasket) to allow the head to flow a lot better. With a stock sized runner, you'll only get "X" cfm out of the head. When looking for quite a bit more power than stock, you're going to need a head that flows better and your setup will work much more effeciently. As mentioned before, its the difference of making 400hp @30psi vs. 600hp @30psi. If possible, I suggest finding someone that can either do the head work and the intake at the same time, or atleast is interested in knowing about your head to help suit the intake best for your application. … I just want to make sure you get an intake that will work well for your setup. Anyways, if you have any questions, feel free to call or e-mail.†Original IM specs: Inner diameter of the runners of the OEM IM, which was on my Zcar. The Shop: OEM IM – Runner’s length of head-to-plenum is 7 inches. Inner diameter of runners given below that attaches to a p90a head (my ‘83 280zxt). Other updates: OEM seats were recovered with black leather with a non-OEM pattern. They fit here: Next: OEM wheels were power-coated black and grooves sprayed gold. Thanks for stopping by. jkh280zx

Modification of a stock 83’ IM or to an after-market IM or to an eBay’s premium IM???? In preparation for the next intake manifold (IM) for my Zcar, I have been accumulating pictures, HZ threads and literature in my “wish notebook†to aid in the decision-making process. The following information summarizes just part of this journey. The picture below shows the current status of the existing stock ’83 turbo IM, except the original POV has been removed. Modification of a stock IM: In his HZ thread, Challenger has provided visual information that denotes the obstructions in a stock IM; has shown how to modify the stock intake manifold for Zs; MONZTER has demonstrated increased air flow through a modified stock IM (See: refs below pictures). After porting the inlets to IM plenum/runners, several HZ members have focused on the modification of the inner surface of IM (plenum & runners) (MONZTER); however, the internal diameter of the runners remains the most critical limiting factor to air flow (See: BRAAP & others below). Challenger via. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134422 With a customized stock IM, which provides an increased air flow, elevated HP has been noted. MONZTER via. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=66748 (post #3) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145256 Other interesting modifications & literature in regards to modification of stock IMs: Blue via. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/intake/zintake/index.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/engine.htm z boi via. Which intake manifold has bigger runners? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/28482-which-intake-manifold-has-bigger-runners/page__p__511129__hl__which%20intake%20manifold% 20has%20bigger%20runners fromsearch__1entry511129 KTM-EXC via. Porting Intake Manifold. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/47991-porting-intake-manifold/page__p__413844__hl__intake%20manifold%20__fromsearch__1entry413844 BRAAP via.“The stock EFI L-28 intake manifold port runners have only 53% the area of the L-28 intake valve!†http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/54034-big-throttle-bodies-why/page__p__487857__hl__intake%20manifold%20__fromsearch__1entry487857 As noted via Blue in the above atlanticz references, “1 fast Z of BMC demonstrated that intake manifolds from maxima LD28 motors have larger runners and mouth. The LD28 runner diameter is 35mm (same as the Z head and Z carb manifold runner). The LD28 runners are longer too. They just need a TB plate and injectors bungs attachedâ€. (Below L). Also note that “BMC makes custom intakes for Zsâ€. (Below R) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=133795 As originally found in ZSelect.com, a high-flow, custom intake manifold was available via Lonewolf Performance. ComicArtist via http://www.zcar.com/forums/885094/lone-wolf-intake http://www.lonewolfperformance.com/nissan.htm Next, custom-made intake manifolds have been made via HZ members. VinhZXT via. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=137723 Mayolives via. Which Intake Manifold Should I Use? (post # 6 Speeder) http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=25602 Philip1 via. Show Off Your Engine Bay! Pics Wanted, L-series Rate Topic http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=73648 (post # 9 Stagefummer11) RTz via. Scratchbuilt L6 EFI Intake Manifold http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=51825 PrOxLaMuS via. DIY ITB turbo intake manifold http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/61956-diy-itb-turbo-intake-manifold/ MONZTER via. Turbo Intake Plenum http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863&page=14 Wiki via. Manifold (automotive). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_(automotive) howstuffworks via. How do tuned intake runners work on your car? http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm/printable team-integra via. Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations (Page 1) http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=466 team-integra via. Intake Manifold Tech: Runner Size Calculations (Page 2) http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=471 Out with the not so old OEM IM with a fuel rail + gage combo and 265 cc injectors: In with the LoneWolf intake manifold with a fuel rail + gage combo, 300 cc Bosch injectors and the 60 mm TB that was on the OEM IM above: Thanks Paul for assimilating all critical information on the OEM ’83 IM and options; thanks to all HZ posters for their creativity in this area too. Follow-up, the critical dimensions of the LW IM that was purchased in comparison to the original OEM IM, etc. Thereafter, will post plans for Stage 1 and, then, Stage 2 (Nistune and 550 cc RC injectors). Thanks John for your input; it is difficult for a lay person to make critical decision regarding “which is best for my Zcarâ€. The plan is to drive my Zcar for several months before Stage 2; I have already purchased everything except a boost controller and the RC injectors for this latter stage. I will need to research a tuning shop down in this area. Beginning to realize how much of refreshment she has under gone since this thread began. Thanks for stopping by. jkh280zx

PYW: Update on Nissan D5733 & Interior Went up to Paragould (AR) and took these pictures. Previous post showed the new coat before wet sanding and polishing. Current Status: I am pleased. All bumpers and chrome pieces have been power coated (black). The wheels will be power coated black with gold painted grooves. The valve cover will also be power coated black with silver letters; a pattern to match the next intake manifold (hint! hint!). New OEM emblems will be returned to their respective locations. A picture is worth a thousand words; something is missing. Decided that the AC should be returned to this Zcar; TX is too hot. The IC & piping system will be acid washed and returned. Next post involves the stock intake manifold. The dash was not spray painted; it was perfect. Thanks ckelly78z. Thanks also to Rick (The Shop) who is taking the lead for the final stages of this refreshment project. She is in a good place. Thanks for stopping by. jkh280zx

These next figures supported the decision-makers, who have recently taken the lead in the refreshment of my Zcar (12/23/09). The following diagrams were obtained from Sam (Parts Manager) at Nissan (Jonesboro, AR). Sam was a great help; he sourced the needed parts within Nissan Incorporation (CA) and the inventories of individual dealerships. He also possesses knowledge about Zcar aftermarket parts; a great source over-and-above MSA and BD. As stated, the windshield was taken out to look for areas that needed attention. One corner spot had only slight surface rust and the top area of the windshield was bad as indicated by previous post. So, the necessary parts to secure a new windshield (Gene’s in Paragould, AR) were purchased from Nissan (Jonesboro) as noted in the first photo (see below); the original side pieces are to be re-used after being painted black. The glass windshield, door glass plates and the 3/4 windows will be tinted after the interior and other upgrades have been installed. All chrome pieces and bumpers on the car will be painted black. As noted previously, new rubber weather seals for the t-tops were purchased from MSA; however, the door rubber seals could not be found (see below). Finally, this and other needed parts were purchased from ckelly78z. Also, the chrome-felt clip-ons (80820 & 21) that fit on the outside of the door next to the glass window were OEM replaced (MSA). One inventory part was purchased and the other is coming from Japan (soon, right!). Water channeling in this area is critical. The next diagram (seen below) denotes many major parts that were not needed; however, many small rubber parts in these areas were purchase from MSA and aftermarket (ebay). The rubber seal set, which secures the back tail lights were purchased from MSA. As the next photo illustrates, I was interested in a front air dam (type2 for 280zx). One was purchased from MSA and put in 'near' place as shown below. I have read many threads about improving wind channeling with air dams, etc. After reading the instructions, I felt that the addition of this part would require modification and, therefore, add more vulnerability to the front end; it was not installed. However, I still like the look and the advantages air dams bring to the performance of a Zcar. So, time will tell. The instructions for air dam installation are given below. PYW: Allocating out the component parts for both 5733 & D5733 were done by pouring each stock paint from their corresponding source to the customer’s product can; the latter was placed on an analytical balance. This procedure is subjected to errors by the individual mixing the 6 oz sample & final paint combination. The color and accumulative amount of each component part is given in the table below for both 5733 & D5733. The first selected color was Deltron 5733 (Nissan 2003), which was noted as 'burnt cherry burgundy' according to the clip (chip). This color was dark maroon within the garage without sunlight; when the garage door was opened the color turned to dark pink as shown in the previous post. Be sure you talk to the head man within the paint department and be sure you ask for a 6 oz sample of your color; then have your paint guy spray a metal surface to verify the color that you have chosen. It should be viewed out in the direct sunlight before you give your final OK. Do not just look at the paint on the lid can or a stick dunked into the paint can. Notice that the D component for Deltron D5733 (Nissan 2004) is high-lighted in yellow; this component represents a darker flop to the final paint code that was selected. The second attempt to have my Zcar painted has been accomplished as noted in the last two photos. Clean-up of the engine bay, intercooler and its corresponding tubing by Rick (Jim's Auto & Machine Shop). Current status: progress is being made. I am pleased; have to be patient; up-grades require time and cost money, etc. Next, the wheels will be power-coated black; bumpers have already been painted black; original bucket seats have been refitted with black leather; OEM black steering wheel has been purchased (ckelly78z); the floor mats are brown (sorry!) [they were purchased new several years back from MSA]. These floor mats will be changed-out over time. Interested in MSA’s black, leather, door-side panels. By the way, a new alarm system has been purchased and has been installed; the AC has been removed. New decisions: intake-manifold will be changed-out with an aftermarket product; plug&play by Spectre eMS-Pro is at the top of the list for a new ECU AND ~440 cc spark plugs will be purchased. Any other suggestions that I have over looked? Spring break is coming soon; the hemp might be traveling to Paragould (AR). If nothing else, I will go for a drive in my refreshed car as shown above in the parking lot located next door to Rick's home. She is in a good place. Progress!! Thanks for dropping by! john

The last update showed my Zcar being gutted with the target to completely refresh the interior (black) and a new coat-of-paint (dark maroon). First, the body work was done. There were several major problems: area between the windshield and t-top, two underneath “cancer†holes; and the left-front fender area (backing out of narrow garage). Of course, small areas of body surface rust and joint regions between the hood and right-vent section. From what I have read in HybridZ, these are common spots for the 280zx. These areas were addressed as indicated by the pictures below. When I saw this damage, I was sick. I doubted my decision to repair the engine first; however, James and Rick stated that they rather be the first step in car restoration and not have to worry so much about working around a new coat-of-paint. Next, a new coat of paint. I went to O’Reilly’s several times to find the color for the ‘second generation’ of 300K miles. OR has many albums of paint options for domestic and foreign cars. Finally, in the Nissan 2003 book, PPG ‘Deltron 5733’ was selected; the color was very dark with reflections of gold maroon. This looked great when only the garage lights were on; however, when the garage door was opened, “Ouch!†The paint selected was PPG ‘Deltron 5733’, which was called ‘Burnt Cherry Burgundy’ but the clip showed a very dark maroon color. The whys for the pink color are too numerous to elaborate. However, if you read Bob Story’s Automotive Paint FAQs and others, then you will know some of them. (References are given at the end.) One of the problems was that the car was painted with a (70 ±10) reducer during the middle of the summer (95◦+); the correct curing time is critical with a new coat-of-paint, especially with a metallic-pearl composite. After discussions with the painter and OR, my Zcar was moved and moved twice more. Don’t ask me why; however, the 4th move was good. And I moved too. My residence is now in Denison (TX) and I am pleased to be working at Grayson County College (teaching biology). My Zcar is still in Paragould (AR) with a new coat-of-paint (PPG ‘Deltron D5733’) purchased at OR’s in Jonesboro (AR). The black interior has been incorporated into the car and “many thanks†goes to Chris (ckelly78z) who provided nearly all of these parts and many back-up parts that I know will be needed down the road. Currently, Chris has another 1982 280zx in ‘parts for sale’ (HZ). AND an on-going “many thanks†goes to Rick and company (Jim’s Auto & Machine Shop) for installing the black interior and other assorted parts to be noted later. Hope you’ll have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!! Thanks for looking in! john Reference: Bob Story’s Automotive Paint Frequently-Asked Questions. digitalweb.net Drew Hardin. Hot Rod’s Ultimate Guide to Paint & Body – Part 1. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/hdrp_0605_paint_body_1/index.html Drew Hardin. Ultimate Paint and Body Guide Part 7 – Under The Gun. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0611_car_paint_techniques/index.html

Hey Jocelyn & Bryan, What good news and what a memory for young Ethan. Glad that mother and child are in good health. How about you? Now tell me what one of your rides will be his FIRST ride??? john

madkaw, As a follow-up of what Chris just posted, here are pictures that illustrate the repair of the bubbles on the roof of my 83ZXT and some rust under the windshield (both corners). Not pretty but you all have seen rust before. I did not believe that it was this bad. There were other areas on the body of the car that were repaired. Note the damage to the underside of the roof as seen above. These are the component parts needed from Nissan or others. I purchased 3 of the four parts needed (Nissan). The chrome plate came off ok; the clips were broken (Nissan) and the plastic part as mentioned in a previous post was broken (Nissan) when removed. The glass came out ok but I plan to replace it with a new one (had my dd repaired recently - the man just cut around the edges with a tool and then two individuals pushed it out), which can be order from a dealer in Memphis. Hope this helps. john Edited: the rust under the windshield.

Hey, The journey is not complete yet, but this is my first selection for my 83ZXT (5733 paint code). The paint source is ppg at O'Reillys; many domestic and import notebooks can be found. Make sure that you get the Deltron brand and look at the component parts to be sure about matching the clip. Also make sure that the temp reducer is within the ambient temperature when you spray paint your car. Always talk to the head paint guy; OMNI mixing grade will not get you the same quality color as seen in the clip. This is the final results as noted below (the journey not complete yet). Now, make sure you ask for a sprayed sample; usually 4 oz will be enough. AND, I suggest that you evaluate whether the pearl and metalic components are what you want. There are many variables in the art of spraying that will make your final color lighter or darker than what the clip reveals to you. If you want to change any of the individual components, this is possible upon mixing the selected paint code. The current status: my Zcar has been moved to another shop because of the various problems that I have mentioned above AND other lack of attention-to-details. Now, I have selected the following: D5733. This is an alternative to the 5733. Components of both are noted below: The D component (urethane flattening agent) will affect what you see; straight-on view will be the clip and looking from the side will make it darker (according to the head paint guy at O'Reillys - Jonesboro). Therefore, she will be almost black at night and D5733 during the daylight hours. Good luck with your journey. john

Last Thursday, my 280zxt went in for a body make-over. She will come home with a burgundy covering and black interior. I thank Chris (ckelly78z) and those who have provided the black interior parts. Afterwards, I will be selling the tan/brown interior parts that have been taken out of my Zcar. This time, I have purchased a red ‘93 Amigo as my dd and my fishing ride (sure is fun to just get up and go). Yesterday, I went to see the patient; a few photos taken. She was gutted as the body doc stated. Well the task is progressing nicely. I continue to buy new weather strip pieces. Currently, I have purchased the following: t-top weather strips (MSA), window/t-top strips, weather gaskets for the rear lights, gold emblems from MSA, BD and ebay, and 3 of 4 strips that are lined with the top and bottom windshield (Nissan) and many of the rubber stoppers around the doors, hood and hatch that keep the rattles down. Will need the door weather strips and the clips that aid in aligning the top portion of the windshield with its respective parts. The latter will be more difficult. Purchased the airdam that is available in MSA’s spring sale. Copied VinhZXT’s statement about aligning the glass by using the glass regulator that is inside the door (HZ via Weather Stripping). The main leak in my Zcar came from the back part of the glass door as it aligned itself with the t-top rubber strip and the t-top seal door strip. Thanks VinhZXT. I have been getting a lot of flack from the guys at The Shop because I am ordering similar body-side molding for my Zcar; however, I have not found the style that I like as yet. Well, I am pleased with the work being done by the boss man. Will keep you informed. By the way the engine bay was not touched. Thank goodness. Enjoying my Amigo now. She will be a big help in organizing my fishing trips when they become more numerous. Thanks for stopping by. john

Hey, Many changes have happened to date and, so far, they have been accomplished with a balance of component parts. These changes are addressed in my MsPs thread in HybridZ given below. However, a few problems still exist like an oil leak from the power steering assembly (direct source unknown). Still, planning must guide the next stage of improvements; addressing them together is the challenging part. So I have summarized below what I have been thinking about as being the best combination (Stage2) for my Zcar with a target of drive-ability and 300 HP. My focused question is what can be changed without affecting the balance of the existing parts? I am not interested in programming a standalone. This will be my fun car; my next dd is being re-furbished as we speak via James and Rick at The Shop. What do you think? …any alternatives? …compatibility and efficiency of parts? How should these changes be grouped together when upgraded?? In advance, thanks for your input. References: Todd Ryden. 2004. How to Build High-Performance Ignition Systems. Crane’s Coils: Performance Ignition Coils. http://cranecams.org/pdf/Page105.pdf Crane’s XR700 & XR3000 Installation: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/images/stories/faqs/crane_install/crane_install.pdf Crane’s XR3000 & PS-91: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/70/32/#section3 Afshin via HybridZ: Z31/300zx ECU/MAF to 280ZXT swap guide. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250 Thanks for stopping by. john

Recently, purchased the door weatherstrips (34-1082 & 1083) for $299 each side from MSA, not as listed in catalogue. Also, recently, purchased 3 of the four WS for the front windshield for $149 from Gary at Jonesboro Nissan. Purchased extras from Chris (ckelly78z) who currently has two ZXTs in parts-for-sale. Hope this helps.