Jump to content
HybridZ

fly-s30

Members
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/83794824@N07/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Australia, the sunburnt backyard

fly-s30's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. How did this pan out? There was some really great fab work here!
  2. Cool build, that was a BIG job! Im keen to see this come through, yay not dead! Im in the process myself of doing the same conversion. Would it be too much to ask to measure the angle which the engine slopes transversely? Im struggling to find any rock solid info on the sr20....only found a throwaway comment on a miata forum which was "about 15 degrees". Also what are your measurements from firewall to the back of the block? iv got 100mm, and the engine mounts are pretty much on top of /inline with the TC buckets, is that the same for you? Cheers Darius
  3. Howdy, are you still interested in a group buy from Australia? I believe you were in contact with the fella's over on viczcar.com http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12110.30.html There are interested parties over there including myself. Cheers Darius
  4. fly-s30

    Diff mount

    So how did you go with the mounts? Its been almost a year so you would have gotten heaps of experience with it then.
  5. Speaking from experience, this is absolutely correct. Seeing the thickness of the steel, and amount of welding that goes in, it has shrunk certain areas and has caused oil canning behind the patch, seeing the roof flattens out somewhat in the area behind the drives head. Dolly work was needed and that took the best part of a whole day. In retrospect replacing the roof skin would have been a much better option in terms of retaining the shape. Although it would have taken longer, a cleaner result would have been far easier to archive. I am also considering a stiffener if shrinking the oil canning doesn't get the results needed.
  6. Thanks for the link Sirpent. Is this thread still active for the short nose covers? This looked REALLY promising with the level of commitment put in. Would be a real shame to see this end here; almost like a badly plotted movie..
  7. Thanks ill look into both. yeah figured this would be appropriate on here....looking to buy a book. guess not. My bad!
  8. As the topics states, are there any reliable and modern/recent books regarding modifying, tuning and engineering of suspension that are out there that we can use as a reliable reference tool? The book "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn is from 1987, and im surmising that it is already outdated, has anyone read it? Any other options? Thanks in advance.
  9. I got the motor way back when, so details are long gone but its front sump, and on a F54 block. If that helps.
  10. Hey all, im making a engine trolley/cradle for a l28, and as luck would have it, its sitting smack on a tyre so it means I cant access the bottom of the motor to measure the depth of the sump from its flange to its bottom. Anyone out there with a tape measure and 5 minutes? Im thinking its 150mm, but its a sketchy measurement. Thanks in advance. P.S Ill throw in a finished picture once done as a thank you.
  11. You raise a good point regarding the missed rust scale; cant really get past that unless the car is acid dipped, then run through a zinc bath...to be sure, to be sure Internal areas are a worry, such as pillars, forward lower sills and other boxed in structures. That begs another question; any recommendations/ opinions on protecting those areas and what is the procedure? Keeping in mind these areas are subject to condensation, water immersion and the sort.
  12. Huntin around and found there is a place round the corner with a big enough booth for cars our size he charges AUD$450 for the zinc coating. Almost as expensive as a POR kit, with tiecoat AND epoxy down our neck of the woods... The product he uses is either dulux zincalume or Akzonobel zinc. Im working in the shipping industry and Dulux, Akzo and International paints are whats used so they are proven products. The bloke says he can coat over the lead no problem, but it will probably come out with blasting anyway. I wonder how effective the zinc would be at keeping rust at bay in the future? Thanks for you help fellas.
  13. Hey there, I am restarting a project after some considerable delay, and the first thing on the agenda is body work. Most rust has been removed and repaired, though existing damage to quarter needs to be looked at among others. Sandblasting is the treatment Im going for to remove paint and surface rust that has inevitably come up, but currently still unsure as to what post-blast primer is going to go on. Options are: A: POR-15 Local paint shop recommends it...and luckily enough stocks it on the shelf Looks good promising, but I personally have no experience with it. B:Powder coating A place around the corner that does zinc powdering on a whole shell in grey, black or red. Its sprayed in the oven, then baked. Supposedly gives a very hard coat and penetrates the steel and is a good preventative to rust. Almost like what manufacturers do these days. C: Epoxy Primer Ol' trusty, and seems a favourite for those in the industry, so im told. Questions for those in the know: Before blasting, is it worth while doing rust repairs, and metal finishing? Ideally my preference would be to smooth body by hand rather than fill, albeit within reason. If using POR 15 system for the underbody area, does it get used in combination with other systems? What, if any, are the compatibility issues with this? Can it be applied to the whole shell?? Touch ups? Can it be welded over? Opinions on the product? What are its limitations? Powder coating zinc? With this treatment was told repairs are to be done as per norm, then once welded, just touch up with zinc pressure pack. Epoxy. Once set does it get in the way of the bonding of metal wiping? Is it weld through or are there other products for that? Is it a reliable rust barrier/preventative? If not, what can be applied over as a preventative for areas such as rockers, wheel wells, gutters, cowls, window frames? etc. And in what sequence ie: blast, primer, protection, topcoat, more protection? Any advice is appreciated, as this is not my my area of expertise. Any alternatives not mentioned? Any procedures that must be followed or things to avoid? Thanks in advance.
×
×
  • Create New...