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74_5.0L_Z

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74_5.0L_Z last won the day on August 7 2016

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About 74_5.0L_Z

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    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 04/30/66

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  • Location
    Rockledge, FL
  1. Any ETA on the rest of the shipment?
  2. 300 ZX Turbo CV shaft disassembly and reassembly

    Can you post a video showing exactly what you are trying to explain?
  3. 300 ZX Turbo CV shaft disassembly and reassembly

    Are saying it doesn't plunge in and out like the outer? If so, then that is alright because that is the way it is supposed to be. If you are saying that it doesn't articulate freely in angular motion, then there is something wrong. The outer joints are the only ones that allow the in / out motion to accommodate length change of the axle.
  4. Hydraulic throwout bearing adjustment

    Bringing this one back from the dead because someone asked a question regard installation of the T5. This is my current set-up: Tilton 75-875U master cylinder (.875 diameter) Tilton 60-6104 Hydraulic Throw-out Bearing Tilton 61-612 Adapter King Cobra Clutch (5.0L Ford) Centerforce Dual Friction disc Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter I have also upgraded my T5. I have the G-Force gears and main shaft with the following gear ratios: 1st 2.94 2nd 1.94 3rd 1.33 4th 1.0 5th 0.80 If I were to do it again, I would just contact Astro Performance and get there A5 with the 0.80 fifth gear. I have the engine and transmission out of the car right now for a rebuild of the engine. I plan to upgrade the pressure plate to the Centerforce LMC aluminum unit.
  5. Z31 axle boot split

    I just split the inner passenger side boot on my car as well. I have a very similar setup (Z31 CLSD R200 with CV axles). My inner passenger boot split at Daytona while I was doing about 155 mph, so I had grease everywhere. Luckily I inspect the car in between sessions and found it before the CV joint burned up. On mine, there is no evidence of the CV boot contacting the LCA even though I have about the same clearances that you do (my LCA are painted and clean so I would be able to see rub marks if there was contact). I attribute my boot splitting due to age and the centrifugal forces caused by going 155+ mph for an extended time. So, because I attribute the major cause of failure to be age related I decided to replace all four boots and clean and re-grease the CV joints. I ended up using the EMPI boots (P/N 86-1170-D for the outer boot and P/N 86-2127-D for the inner). They fit well and seem to be well made. I did reuse the factory retaining rings where possible, and used Redline CV-2 grease instead of the EMPI grease that comes with the boot kits. I haven't run them at speed yet. I'll test them this coming weekend on the Sebring long course where there are two straights where I will see about 150 mph.
  6. Pictures please. I track mine and would really like to know what to inspect. I am also weighing the option of upgrading to the billet stub axles.
  7. 300 ZX Turbo CV shaft disassembly and reassembly

    Thanks. I had been perusing their web-site yesterday. I think the size I need for the Round Wire External Retaining ring that keeps the inner CV from pulling through the cage is CRS-30. I have requested a few samples. I haven't been able to find an exact replacement for the Flat Constant Section External retaining rings that are on the other boot side of both CV joints. I don't need those right now, but it would be nice to have a few spares laying around. So, I will follow Jon's advice and hit the local Nissan dealer to see if they can still get them.
  8. Looking for New Steering Rack Feedback

    The stock rack that I pulled out of my early 260Z was the slow (1.59 inches per turn). I have measured three 71-73 240Z racks, and they were all the faster (1.81 inches per turn). I cannot swear that all 240Z racks are of the fast variety, but that appears to be the case. The stock 240Z rack has the aluminum pinion housing. Some 240Z cars that I have seen have had their racks replaced with newer units that came from a 260Z or 280Z. So, verify that the rack you buy is 240Z original equipment.
  9. Alignment numbers

    Also, +2.9 would be about what I would expect for a stock 240Z.
  10. Alignment numbers

    Are you sure that the negative caster numbers are real? If they were, the car would be almost undriveable. A quick way to check is to jack up the car and remove the wheel. If the strut top is behind the lower ball joint, then you have positive caster. This is what 6 degrees of positive caster looks like:
  11. 300 ZX Turbo CV shaft disassembly and reassembly

    Jon, I just disassembled my inner CV on the passenger side and mangled the circlip. Do you (or anyone else) know of a good source for the circlip?
  12. Alignment numbers

    I don't think any of these cars ever sat perfectly level, so if it is not grossly tilted then I wouldn't worry about. However, springs do sag with age and the rubber strut isolators do separate. So, if the springs and isolators are in good shape then the only real option for leveling (other than coil-overs) is to use spacers between the isolators and the body. Again, its is more important that car is level with you in it than without you in it. If you have stock spring rates then the ride height will change significantly with you versus without you.
  13. Alignment numbers

    Those number look much better than I originally thought from your hand written picture in the first post. I thought that the front camber was -.8 on the left and +2.0 on the right. So, you really don't have that bad of numbers for the front camber (for a street car). You should however try to fix the caster. If the T/C bushing are worn, then replace them. You can increase the caster with adjustable T/C rods, but don't get carried away. With stock control arms without a spherical bearing at the cross member connection, you will bind the control arm movement if you try to add too much caster. You could however get both sides equal and get about 4 degrees of caster. Were these number taken with you in the car? Have you verified that the car sits level? I always sit in the car while measuring the alignment. If you are in the car (left hand drive I assume) then the left front camber will become more negative. If you don't verify that the car sits level before performing the alignment, then you are applying a band-aid where surgery may be required.
  14. Looking for New Steering Rack Feedback

    Yes, you can install a 240Z rack in a 280Z. You just have to use the 240Z bushings. I have the standard length steering arms, but have looked into using the quick steering arms. With the 280Z rack, I felt the steering was too slow for autocross. So, I installed the 240Z rack and I am happy with the responsiveness of the steering. The steering effort did increase, but I do not find it difficult even with 10 inch slicks (at least while the car is moving). I do not try and turn the wheel with the car sitting still. It is my opinion that if you want to have faster steering than the 240Z rack with the standard arms and also have big sticky tires, then you will need power steering.
  15. Looking for New Steering Rack Feedback

    Would you please measure the rack gain? To do so, perform the following: 1. Start with rack all the way against one of the end stops. 2. Turn pinion exactly one turn. 3. Measure amount of rack shaft exposed (between end stop and end of housing). For reference, the stock 240Z would move 1.81 inches per revolution of the pinion gear, and the stock 280Z rack would move 1.59 inches per revolution of the pinion gear. So, the 240Z rack is faster but requires more effort to turn. I would love to see how this rack compares. Thanks.
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