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Bean

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  • Birthday 11/12/1980

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  1. It IS for the 1uz. The parts are available for all 3 uz-series blocks. Its just that the 2uz block has more room to work with than the other 2.
  2. Just for a little evidence: Its a GT4276, which is bigger than a GT4202, but still Not THAT much bigger.
  3. Are you from the states? He swapped in a JDM 2jz-ge? They are slightly different in several ways. They use MAP-based airflow measurement, and the stock ECU does not like positive boost pressure (much like Honda ECUs). They also have a speed limiter (which can be fixed easily enough). With the transmission, thats a pretty good deal. Are you getting the ignitor and other misc parts? Planning on running the automagic?
  4. I'm with BLKMGK, I think you're reading too much into the antihype about the motor. The days of the smallish 1500rpm powerbands are behind us. While there are certainly peaks like it, the powerbands are much more broad than they used to be, certainly moreso than the peaky RB26. Maybe on the GT47-series turbos, but not on a GT42. Sadly, most of the "knowledge" about JZ motors being tossed around is usually 3rd or 4th hand information. Yes dynoqueens do exist and yes they were rather common at one time. They ran alphabet soup electronics mods and were limited to the stock 6800rpm rev limiter Anyway, I dont forsee 850whp being controllable in an old Z-chassis in anything but a drag-race only car. Area-under-the-curve concerns will be the least of your problems. Try finding an IRS rearend that will handle that amount of power for that car. No stock Nissan unit will, thats for sure. 850whp will net you ~150mph traps I believe in a Supra... Now slice off about 600-700lbs.
  5. Just chaining along some information. There is now several different stroker cranks available for the 2uz-fe... thats the 4.7L iron block Toyota V8. There is a ton of other stuff too but the stroker setups can yield up to 5.5L on the stock bore alone. And it is built by a Baja 1000 engine builder. Its just something to look at for those of you that tire of the run of the mill Chevy, Ford, or Infiniti V8 swap. http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?p=27426#post27426 PS Dont get the 2UR and 2UZ confused.
  6. The E85 movement is getting big, but 30-35psi is pushing it IMO. I've seen plenty of dynos at around 25psi and some to 30psi... but at 30psi they felt they were at the limit. Also the GT4202 wont be at its limits on just 30-35psi; IIRC you need to approach 40psi for that. And to do that you'll need to be running the L19 headstuds. There are quite a few Supras revving to 9k rpms. Its rather common actually in the higher horsepower groups. Ferrera valvetrain, slightly oversized valves iirc, ported head, 272 cams and a standalone to bind them all. 850whp is a good power goal at those boost levels; though that particular turbo is capable of even more IIRC. But I think 30psi might be your limit. I have seen some very high boost runs on E85 + meth injection. ALSO, make sure you set up the fuel system for E85. You need more fuel flow with E85 too, including either triple walboros or a weldon plus very large injectors. E85 requires more fuel to combust compared to gas; of course everyone knew that here, but just make sure you have the fuel capacity for your goal.
  7. From what I hear and have read is that divided housings do sacrifice total flow though. Its a give and take thing of course
  8. Whats up BLKMGK. I know you probably dont remember me, but I remember you on SF DaveH has also pioneered a distributorless setup using a hall effect sensor and modifying the AEM to run it. The setup is currently on Probezilla right now. The BIGGEST benefit is that there is NO cas or distributor; therefore you can run the cheaper TT cams no problem. (what it was intended for). The stacked TT gaskets work well but drop the compression a lot; like to 8:1ish. But yeah the GE responds to cam upgrades VERY well. Probably from the more restrictive intake and the freely flowing exhaust side. Nice work on the divided setup, I bet it flows nicely so long as the cylinders are run to the correct divider. The 6in1 is supposedly the reason the fullrace makes so much power
  9. Remember the 2jz-ge is out there too for similar pricing It doesnt need hybridizing or anything; just a thicker headgasket and ARP headstuds for turbocharging. It makes ~185whp stock through a MT. With the above mods it can handle anything you can throw at it.
  10. FYI, 1jz 5-speeds are quite common from JZA70 Supras. Check with the larger importers to see if they have any, it might be cheaper than buying the tranny and bellhousing seperately. You need the slave cylinder as well. R154 operates on a reverse-type of clutch/flywheel interaction vs most other transmissions out there. Not sure if you guys need it but on Soarers and MKIV Supras using the R154, they need a shifter extension as well. R154s and W58s both have shifter extensions in them; the shift knob does not go directly into the transmission itself. The extension is needed because the Soarer/MKIV chassis is longer than the MKIII chassis from that aspect. The 240sx swap guys need the extension too is the real reason I'm mentioning it here. Here's the thread, VIPSoarer was the first to create the extension, everything else you see is pretty much after his work. http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744&highlight=R154+swap FYI: For a cheaper driveshaft solution, the front half of the MKIII Supra turbo driveshaft will also work well. It can be seperated easily enough and a driveshaft shop worth their salt can use it to build you a full driveshaft
  11. If you custom fab a manifold; make sure you create it with large runners with equal length if you can manage... none of that log manifold ♥♥♥♥. These turbos require some heavy duty flow. You mentioned an HKS/Greddy knockoff and that might work well; try and increase the runner ID if you can The more flow the bigger power! One of the many reasons fullrace manifolds are so awesome.
  12. Nice! The gt42 truly is an awesome turbo. The 104mm wheel can make some ferocious power. Make sure you verify whatever manifold you use will clear the distributor if you intend to keep it. The gt42 is a large framed turbo and won't clear all that easy without the right manifold. FYI the hybrid gt4094r is worth checking out since its a gt42 in a gt40 body. Good luck!
  13. Yup Dave Henry is a really cool guy. I believe his new build will be even faster. His friend's 2jz Probe aka "Probezilla" ran mid 8s on a junkyard GE motor. It had a stock exhaust cam and a 272 intake running a GT4294 I believe. Had a 1.3 60' lolz. Besides the obvious, the turbos of course; there are few real differences between the motors themselves. Intake manifold on the GE, contrary to popular belief, flows MORE air than the GTE manifold does; AND its design is far superior if one were to want to run meth injection. Injectors are a high-imp 330cc top feed vs a low-imp w/ resistor box 550cc side feed. Stock GE rail has a larger ID than the GTE rail does and can flow fuel up to around 700hp (quoted to me by Boostlogic) Cam duration/lift/etc is slightly more aggressive on the GE motor I think and the GE head has been flowtested to flow BETTER than the GTE head. The primary problem with the GTE head being the exhaust ports are angled towards the center of their respective stock manifold. Stock mani is a 2 piece, each 3 exhaust ports point towards the exit of that manifold into the turbo. It most likely helps spool on stock twins but is a hindrance at higher flow levels. ALL JZ heads are completely interchangable physically, all the passages line up perfect... though electronics and other parts that bolt onto them (like manifolds) will be different. GE distributor has a cam position sensor in it and the GTE has a seperate cam angle sensor. GE has teeth on its exhaust cam, and cannot use aftermarket GTE camshafts for exhaust side; only on the intake side. Though now that has been remedied with the TTC cams that offer special exhaust-side gears if you're sticking with the distributor Distributor has been tested upwards of 800hp on stock plug wires, only needed a DLI of some sort (HKS and MSD 6A are pretty common) in that instance (I think it involved 28-30psi of boost, so they work rather well). OBD 1 GE motors run a Karmen Vortex airmetering ( I wont go into how that works, out of scope of this thread) and the GTEs run a Hotwire. VVTI GE motors got the weaker rods and a hotwire MAF. VVTI GTE motors retain the hotwire and the stronger rods.... do not get the GTE and GE motors confused here for VVTI. ODB1 GE and GTE have the same rods and crank. The block is the same too minus the oil supplies in the upper exhaust side and the oil drain in the upper oil pan. Though the boss is still there for the GE and can easily be drilled out (its aluminum) with a holesaw. No oil squirters for the GE. Several stock GE blocks running around with over 800hp... if someone blows one, they pick up a GTE shortblock for cheap. Compression on the OBD1 GE is 10:1 while the GTE is 8.5:1. A 2mm headgasket will net you ~8.57:1 compression level on the GE motor and using a stock GTE gasket (squishes to 1.3mm) will yield around 9.2:1. Common mods are ARP headstuds (or L19s if you're running big boost) and a thicker headgasket. It makes for a VERY stout setup, able to handle a LOT of power. There are 3 different cars that had the non-VVTI 2jz-ge here in the US: The 93-97 NA supra, the 92-97 GS300, and the 92-97 SC300. The 2nd gen GS300 got the VVTI GE, the 98-00 SC300 did, and so did the IS300. SC300 and Supra have the mid sump, GS have the front sump; and I cant remember what the IS had. Any other info you can find at http://www.clubna-t.com , I wrote the NA-T Bible Feel free to chat, we dont have a section for HybridZs, but I know several of you guys and also NA-Ters (as we call ourselves) are very interested in the motor itself and not necessarily what platform it involves. Later!
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