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stock600

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  1. Over the winter I decided to ditch the well running 383 and pass it on to a friend and build me a all new 427" sbc from the ground up. 4.125 x 4" in a new Dart block. I then new I wanted all the header flow I could get so started with a new set of Shonfield (sp) 1 7/8" x 3.5" 'over the rail' modified dirt track header and cut them down about half in length. I then stepped them to 2" and ran them back together into a custom 4" collector, then side exit out of the bottom of the front fenders. They flow like crazy and sound unreal! By far the best headers I've ever had on the car and I've owned it for a long time and had and built many sets for it over the years. On paper it looks like it's going to run 4 80's or 90's. I just did a regear in case I want to run the Outlaw 5.0 deal. Only taken it out once just last weekend to put some easy time on the fresh parts and find my 5.80 tune up. I just started at 1/2 throttle to see where that would be and it was a 5.41 so I backed it down and found my 5.80 2 passes later. For anyone that has cut out your inner fenders look at starting with a #156 Shonfield header, they just damn near fit perfect right out of the box, but require tweaking. Never have to worry with steering rod, oil filter, plugs, or plug wires either
  2. Over the winter I decided to ditch the well running 383 and pass it on to a friend and build me a all new 427" sbc from the ground up. 4.125 x 4" in a new Dart block. I then new I wanted all the header flow I could get so started with a new set of Shonfield (sp) 1 7/8" x 3.5" 'over the rail' modified dirt track header and cut them down about half in length. I then stepped them to 2" and ran them back together into a custom 4" collector, then side exit out of the bottom of the front fenders. They flow like crazy and sound unreal! By far the best headers I've ever had on the car and I've owned it for a long time and had and built many sets for it over the years. On paper it looks like it's going to run 4 80's or 90's. I just did a regear in case I want to run the Outlaw 5.0 deal. Only taken it out once just last weekend to put some easy time on the fresh parts and find my 5.80 tune up. I just started at 1/2 throttle to see where that would be and it was a 5.41 so I backed it down and found my 5.80 2 passes later. For anyone that has cut out your inner fenders look at starting with a #156 Shonfield header, they just damn near fit perfect right out of the box, but require tweaking. Never have to worry with steering rod, oil filter, plugs, or plug wires either
  3. I hear ya, na just move over and shoot the other 4 through the hub and rotor, then just tap the hub. The hole I started with measured around .480 and it still took the 1/2" tap very well, nice clean threads. They may not be as deep as the other 4 poss. but to the eye they looked as good and torqued down nice. Their 72* apart from each other
  4. Why not drill it to .454 and tap it .500 x 20. I just did mine this week and turned out perfect. Much better IMO also, lock tight the last 1/2" or so and snug them up. Be good for ever that way Tucker
  5. Well I got all this done today and it turned out great, just thought Id update. I studied this for 2 weeks before I did anything, and the info seems to be pretty limited out there for some reason. I got another set of 280z style hubs and went and bought a new set of rotors from OReillys. At my machine shop we took and indexed the new 5 on 4 1/2" pattern on the old 4 lug hub. Then moved that pattern on the rotors and drilled them through [did not tap them] only 2" larger than the new 1/2" x 20 Moroso studs. The new 3" long full thread studs have a allen head on them, we had to use an mill to cut in the side just a tad to allow room for the allen head. Then the new studs thread in pulling the hub up against the new rotors. I red tock tighted them in and she will be good to go. Doing it this way deleted the other 4 bolts that used to bolt the hubs and rotors together, their just not needed any longer after doing it this way. It turned out soo nice! I hope this can help someone in the future, that runs across it after studing it as hard as I did. Good luck Ryan
  6. Well the adapters suck ass, their Way to thick and the center doesn't fit over the hub anyway. I bought a set of Wheels their in 5 on 4 1/2". I also ordered another set of 280 style hubs and new rotors, I plan to chalk them up and re-drill my 5 lug pattern in them soon as they come in. I bought a new set of Moroso 1/2" by 3" long lugs, I hope I can make this crap work, it wont end up being very expensive if so. I looked all over and was curious to cost of the Modern Motorsports hubs but know understand there was a death in the business or family and their now closed. Does anyone know if their parts can still be bought any where else? And if they make a hub for what Im trying to do. Just get to the 5 lug pattern but retain factory rotors and calipers? Thanks Ryan
  7. I'm so sorry to hear this also, prayers for his family. Rest in peace Ryan
  8. I said to hell with it and called a adapter company I found online and had a set of billet adapters made, their on the way. They go to a 5 on 4 1/2" pattern they can put on them what ever you want though, the 4 1/2 is mustang and I knew it would be the most common and easiest to find a great used pair. I then jumped on Racing Junk and found the 2.0 version one piece billet wheels that I wanted for basicly a buy one get one price, and their on the way as well. I will fiqure out this picture thing later and post some before and after shots If anyone is interested. Thanks to those that took the time to help with suggestions and tips. Ryan
  9. Lol, you are helping and I appreciate your time and help! I'm not in a huge rush by no means, its now the off season and Im building a new engine and all so the cars down for now any way. I just went out and pulled a front wheel and they are scalloped like you said so I assume now I have a 240 front hub/rotor set up from the factory. Just curious would this mean its a early or late version of the 260? It is also a 2+2 car if that makes any difference. I thought there was a certain year model that had the 5 lug but it was a 5 on 4 1/2, no? Then Id still have to get a adapter to get me to 4 3/4. I will call the place you mentioned and see what they say, I was just hoping I could do it from the local parts store (diff. year Z car parts) so it would be cheaper. I know aftermarket stuff's going to be high, and Im spending pliantly right now on the Blown 427 SBC that Im putting together. Thanks again Ryan
  10. Thank you that helps understand the hubs and spindles between the year models. I feel I can go to the parts store now and ask for 280 5 lug hubs and rotors and get a 5 on 4 1/2" lug pattern on the car then have to get that from 4 1/2 to 4 3/4". Next question though is on what caliper, can I keep using the factory 74 260 stuff that's on the car and working great now? It all been replaced with OEM parts in the past few years and stops really nice as is. If the 280 hubs and rotors are the same diamention then this wont be a big deal and could poss. try and buy the parts as soon as tomorrow after work. Thanks again for the help Ryan
  11. It's mentioned that the 3rd gen Camaro hubs work on the 280z spindle my question is, is the 280 spindle the same as my 74 model 260z? Also I don't know the Camaros well, what year specific Camaro would I ask for the hubs and rotors for? Any certain model or engine size as well? I would think that is would be a more common topic than it is on a Datsun forum, and like another member said have a 'sticky' on it of info and part numbers exc.... Id love to get a 5x4 3/4 hub on mine asap. Im in the middle of building a sbc 427" engine for it now but by next season really want to get matching front AlumaStars up front they don't make them in our 4 lug. Ryan
  12. Nothing came up with Camaro hubs in the search bar. Could you tell me what year Camaro,what engine option or any other specifics about what hubs to go buy today. And any info on the brakes that work as well, thank you in advance. Ryan
  13. Ok, I sure will search for the Camaro hubs and thanks. To go straight to the correct bolt pattern would be so nice and not have any spacers or adapters. I would find it odd that a Camaro hub would be the same bearing size, and all else dimentions to make it work. Can you tell me how you made the brakes work using Camaro hubs, Thanks very much. Ryan
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