Jump to content
HybridZ

stock600

Members
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by stock600

  1. Over the winter I decided to ditch the well running 383 and pass it on to a friend and build me a all new 427" sbc from the ground up. 4.125 x 4" in a new Dart block. I then new I wanted all the header flow I could get so started with a new set of Shonfield (sp) 1 7/8" x 3.5" 'over the rail' modified dirt track header and cut them down about half in length. I then stepped them to 2" and ran them back together into a custom 4" collector, then side exit out of the bottom of the front fenders. They flow like crazy and sound unreal! By far the best headers I've ever had on the car and I've owned it for a long time and had and built many sets for it over the years. On paper it looks like it's going to run 4 80's or 90's. I just did a regear in case I want to run the Outlaw 5.0 deal. Only taken it out once just last weekend to put some easy time on the fresh parts and find my 5.80 tune up. I just started at 1/2 throttle to see where that would be and it was a 5.41 so I backed it down and found my 5.80 2 passes later. For anyone that has cut out your inner fenders look at starting with a #156 Shonfield header, they just damn near fit perfect right out of the box, but require tweaking. Never have to worry with steering rod, oil filter, plugs, or plug wires either
  2. Over the winter I decided to ditch the well running 383 and pass it on to a friend and build me a all new 427" sbc from the ground up. 4.125 x 4" in a new Dart block. I then new I wanted all the header flow I could get so started with a new set of Shonfield (sp) 1 7/8" x 3.5" 'over the rail' modified dirt track header and cut them down about half in length. I then stepped them to 2" and ran them back together into a custom 4" collector, then side exit out of the bottom of the front fenders. They flow like crazy and sound unreal! By far the best headers I've ever had on the car and I've owned it for a long time and had and built many sets for it over the years. On paper it looks like it's going to run 4 80's or 90's. I just did a regear in case I want to run the Outlaw 5.0 deal. Only taken it out once just last weekend to put some easy time on the fresh parts and find my 5.80 tune up. I just started at 1/2 throttle to see where that would be and it was a 5.41 so I backed it down and found my 5.80 2 passes later. For anyone that has cut out your inner fenders look at starting with a #156 Shonfield header, they just damn near fit perfect right out of the box, but require tweaking. Never have to worry with steering rod, oil filter, plugs, or plug wires either
  3. I hear ya, na just move over and shoot the other 4 through the hub and rotor, then just tap the hub. The hole I started with measured around .480 and it still took the 1/2" tap very well, nice clean threads. They may not be as deep as the other 4 poss. but to the eye they looked as good and torqued down nice. Their 72* apart from each other
  4. Why not drill it to .454 and tap it .500 x 20. I just did mine this week and turned out perfect. Much better IMO also, lock tight the last 1/2" or so and snug them up. Be good for ever that way Tucker
  5. Well I got all this done today and it turned out great, just thought Id update. I studied this for 2 weeks before I did anything, and the info seems to be pretty limited out there for some reason. I got another set of 280z style hubs and went and bought a new set of rotors from OReillys. At my machine shop we took and indexed the new 5 on 4 1/2" pattern on the old 4 lug hub. Then moved that pattern on the rotors and drilled them through [did not tap them] only 2" larger than the new 1/2" x 20 Moroso studs. The new 3" long full thread studs have a allen head on them, we had to use an mill to cut in the side just a tad to allow room for the allen head. Then the new studs thread in pulling the hub up against the new rotors. I red tock tighted them in and she will be good to go. Doing it this way deleted the other 4 bolts that used to bolt the hubs and rotors together, their just not needed any longer after doing it this way. It turned out soo nice! I hope this can help someone in the future, that runs across it after studing it as hard as I did. Good luck Ryan
  6. Well the adapters suck ass, their Way to thick and the center doesn't fit over the hub anyway. I bought a set of Wheels their in 5 on 4 1/2". I also ordered another set of 280 style hubs and new rotors, I plan to chalk them up and re-drill my 5 lug pattern in them soon as they come in. I bought a new set of Moroso 1/2" by 3" long lugs, I hope I can make this crap work, it wont end up being very expensive if so. I looked all over and was curious to cost of the Modern Motorsports hubs but know understand there was a death in the business or family and their now closed. Does anyone know if their parts can still be bought any where else? And if they make a hub for what Im trying to do. Just get to the 5 lug pattern but retain factory rotors and calipers? Thanks Ryan
  7. I'm so sorry to hear this also, prayers for his family. Rest in peace Ryan
  8. I said to hell with it and called a adapter company I found online and had a set of billet adapters made, their on the way. They go to a 5 on 4 1/2" pattern they can put on them what ever you want though, the 4 1/2 is mustang and I knew it would be the most common and easiest to find a great used pair. I then jumped on Racing Junk and found the 2.0 version one piece billet wheels that I wanted for basicly a buy one get one price, and their on the way as well. I will fiqure out this picture thing later and post some before and after shots If anyone is interested. Thanks to those that took the time to help with suggestions and tips. Ryan
  9. Lol, you are helping and I appreciate your time and help! I'm not in a huge rush by no means, its now the off season and Im building a new engine and all so the cars down for now any way. I just went out and pulled a front wheel and they are scalloped like you said so I assume now I have a 240 front hub/rotor set up from the factory. Just curious would this mean its a early or late version of the 260? It is also a 2+2 car if that makes any difference. I thought there was a certain year model that had the 5 lug but it was a 5 on 4 1/2, no? Then Id still have to get a adapter to get me to 4 3/4. I will call the place you mentioned and see what they say, I was just hoping I could do it from the local parts store (diff. year Z car parts) so it would be cheaper. I know aftermarket stuff's going to be high, and Im spending pliantly right now on the Blown 427 SBC that Im putting together. Thanks again Ryan
  10. Thank you that helps understand the hubs and spindles between the year models. I feel I can go to the parts store now and ask for 280 5 lug hubs and rotors and get a 5 on 4 1/2" lug pattern on the car then have to get that from 4 1/2 to 4 3/4". Next question though is on what caliper, can I keep using the factory 74 260 stuff that's on the car and working great now? It all been replaced with OEM parts in the past few years and stops really nice as is. If the 280 hubs and rotors are the same diamention then this wont be a big deal and could poss. try and buy the parts as soon as tomorrow after work. Thanks again for the help Ryan
  11. It's mentioned that the 3rd gen Camaro hubs work on the 280z spindle my question is, is the 280 spindle the same as my 74 model 260z? Also I don't know the Camaros well, what year specific Camaro would I ask for the hubs and rotors for? Any certain model or engine size as well? I would think that is would be a more common topic than it is on a Datsun forum, and like another member said have a 'sticky' on it of info and part numbers exc.... Id love to get a 5x4 3/4 hub on mine asap. Im in the middle of building a sbc 427" engine for it now but by next season really want to get matching front AlumaStars up front they don't make them in our 4 lug. Ryan
  12. Nothing came up with Camaro hubs in the search bar. Could you tell me what year Camaro,what engine option or any other specifics about what hubs to go buy today. And any info on the brakes that work as well, thank you in advance. Ryan
  13. Ok, I sure will search for the Camaro hubs and thanks. To go straight to the correct bolt pattern would be so nice and not have any spacers or adapters. I would find it odd that a Camaro hub would be the same bearing size, and all else dimentions to make it work. Can you tell me how you made the brakes work using Camaro hubs, Thanks very much. Ryan
  14. Is there enough room on the hub to redrill for the 5 on 4 3/4" pattern? Has this even been done before? Thanks Ryan
  15. Im sorry if this is been given before, but my search came up empty. The only thing left orig. in this back halved 260z is the front rotors and brakes literaly. I want weld Alumastars up front to match the 15x15 out back. They don't make them in 4 lug, Ive found them in 5 by 4 3/4. I was going to start by looking at adapters, what is the factory 4 lug bolt pattern guys? It measures right at 4.5 inches on center. Next thing and better would be a direct bolt on 5 lug rotor hub so I can use the same brakes and everything that I have that's fresh now and works very well. All the rear stuff is Strange disk and a big bore Strange master cylinder. Im sure their are expensive aftermarket rotors and upgraded brakes etc... but with what a new set of AlumaStars and drag tires cost I will be tapped out for a bit on upgrades. Simpley whats my cheapest and best way to get these 5 lug 4 3/4 wheels on this 74 260z, and Thanks a ton in advance!!! Ryan T.
  16. I commented in another header thread but found this one and thought Id update it a little. After completely re backhalfing the car is a super solid totally diff. animal. Handles very well and got to cut some weight while adding a ton of strength in all the right places. It now under 2600 race ready with me inside (Im 225# or so). I'll still be running it in the 5.80 and 6.60 classes but off the stop it will runs 30's no trouble. Even though these big tube shorties fit, I know Im giving up some series flow on the top end with my setup. With a 5k convertor Im only using this engine in the 5-7500 range and its a Blown 383 combo so Im sure Im choking it big time. I hoping to be able to use a 'over the frame rail' style header that the modify guys run in their dirt cars. They have them for Camaros and the metric cars, they look good if they will fit. No more steering shaft, spark plugs, oil filter, oil pan, heat, etc... clearance issues. I think their achievable due to me removing my inner fenders and having all that space open but we will soon see, my new heads should be here this week. Going from the RHS 235 to AFR full Comp CNC, and this got me a 2.100 int valve rather than the 2.08. Im better they run well with my blown combo. Ryan
  17. Man, I hate to hear this you probably tried them from my posts. Their on my car and fit really nice. I did have to alter the steering shaft a bit and put it in a heim joint to further stiffen it, but they fit great and I feel flow super for a shorty header. Car runs 5.30's with 1.26 60's so not to bad. I did just order a set of full CNC AFR's and another blower pulley that's going to take my blower drive from 31% over to 62% over soo Im re looking my header thing now just to see if I can further improve on it with longer primarys. Ive also since gutted my inner fenders and brought my cage out of the cab and tied it into the front of the chassis. So Im now looking at several of the "Over the fender style Modified dirt raceing headers in 1 7/8" The plan is to swap the heads over and reinstall blower with new pulley but leave headers off, load it in trailer and take it to a couple dirt racing places to see what they have in stock that I can carry out and try right on the car. I want them to come straight off the head back a bit then down behind the front tires then out the bottom of the front fenders as my CC1 7/8 do now. Ryan
  18. A blown engine just wants the biggest pipe it can get to get rid of the exh. gasses; primary size, pulse flow and merge collectors are not needed and dont follow the same principles as a NA engine. That said if this engine had the blower off of it it would likely be a big turd I built it to be blown. 235cc heads, 11:1 CR, 1 7/8 primarys, and a 1250 CFM methanol carb on top of only 390 CID
  19. Id reccomend the CC178, they fit my car well and sure support a bunch of power. I used mandrel 3" pipe and ran mine out the front fenders Pro Mod style, lol. Looks good and sounds killer
  20. Ive been having hell with the car but a good time as well. Ive been out 5 times and pushed it in the trailer 4 of them. All the failures have been rear end or rear suspension related. Broken gears seized bearings, bend the back half chassis, all kind of wierd stuff. Never made a full pass or a hard t-brake launch but can tell the sucker is going to run hard, its in the 1.34 60' range on the foot brake and playing with the throttle running 6 flat with ease. Ive now completely cut out the back half and redoing it with chrome moly, a fab 9' housing and Big tires 33x17x15 on 15x15 weld wheels. 26" dragster housing puts me at a very tight 59" total width which is what the car is now with all the rear inner fenders cut out all the way up to the rear side glass, Im going to set her in the weeds. I found that the strut inserts for a 280z were a bit more than a inch shorter so I sectioned the strut housing and cut length out of the spring to get her way down in the front. After this new back half and able to put down the power I expect the car to run maybe mid 5's and only gearing it for the 1/8th mile with a 5.82 gear. I plan to run the 5.80 and 6.60 index races this next season. Fun, fun Ryan
  21. Ya, I didnt go 3/4" and redo the whole shaft, just poped that 3/4" joint in it to get around the header. It was my cheapest option and the local race shop had it for cheaper than I could get the one at grainger or online. I agree that fat ass joint is over kill Id rather had a bit smaller one but...... I also agree on coatings. Im a big believer in them, A dirt track frind of mine has a spot setup in his shop to do his stuff and Im welcome to use the product, blast cabnet, oven, etc..... Acually tomorrow Im doing the pistons valves and combustion chambers. Id prefer a true flat top by design any day but I had to use a .150 dome this go around to get the static ratio of 12.5 : 1 that I was after. It's just a .060" over bore 010 W block, which is the high nickel 2 bolt main, Ive got steel Oliver main caps that are studded in the center and splayed arp's 12 point on the outside bolts. Once line honed I believe this to be quite a bit better than the factory 4 bolt setup. Crank is a 4340 eagle 400 crank that I tuned the mains down to 2.449 from 2.649 to give me that 3.750 stroke; ~390 inches I quess have not put in on paper yet, 383 is with a .030 bore I believe. Also, I just filled the block up to the bottom of the water pump holes for that reason If some one else ever wanted to put it back on gas and need a cooling system, I'd never race anything thats not on methanol myself. I am curious though how others that fill them to the deck surfacekeep the product out of the head bolt holes/threads as there not blind holes. I even had to put tape and silicone in the lower water pump thread holes to keep it from running out of them early. Anyways, I having fun putting the car back together and hope to have it at the track within 2 weeks. Have no idea what its going to run but I geared it for 115mph at 7k, just in case it has enough ass to run the 5.80 class, if not these are lots of weekly index classes that I plan to tune for and maybe run 2 or 3 of them. There are a 5.00 ; 5.80 ;6.0 ; 6.30 ; 6.60 ; 7.00 ; 7.30 ; and a slow 8.30 class. Any of two of them will be lots of fun. I built a throttle stop under the loud pedal [cheap ass] and will keep good logs to dial in for a couple classes. Ryan
  22. Well the 1 7/8 headers worked out very well. My 235cc alum heads use a 1405 gasket which is 1.550 x 1.550 and these ports are larger both at the top and bottom which will flow super well and poss. help reversion. I did have to open the sides up a tick but very little and theres going to work out very nice. I bushed down a 3/4 x 3/4 joint to 5/8 and jogged right around the header wil no trouble along with made a mount and using a CM 5/8 heim joint for extra support. Pistons and rest of rotating assembley came in and should be able to pick up block tomorrow. Im going to torque the mains hard block it and torque the heads and let it set for a couple days before final assembely. Cant hardley wait. Oh, I built the exh. also, it turned out really cool I think. I built some flanges with a 3.5" turnout and mounted them out the front fenders Pro Mod style then ran full mandral 3" tubing from the 3" collectors to just a couple inches inside the 3.5" flanged 45* turnout. Ryan
  23. Thanks for the reply, which joint did you end up getting? woodard has a 5/8" UA150 for 54 bucks that would work. I dont think Borgeson had a smooth bore smaller than 3/4. I suppose I could machine a 9/16 to 3/4 bushing but...... I found a 1/2" at the local Grainger that I'll machine out to a nice tight fit, it was about the same cost and no shipping or time lost. Headers should be here tomorrow Im going to wait and fab up the steering shaft with the engine/headers in the car, If need be I could go get another 1/2" joint and make a double joint if ness. to get the proper geometry. I'm just really hoping these headers fit well and the ports work well with these big Ol 230cc alum. heads; thier ported to the 1404 which is 1.5" x 1.5" square. Ryan
×
×
  • Create New...