highly

Hopefully it's OK to mention this here. I just picked up 4 Koni 8610 1437 RACE shocks for $164 apiece from Autoplicity. They arrived today. $656 for four, free shipping. Seemed like the kind of deal someone here might be interested in. Have a great weekend! -Todd *** not in any possible way affiliated except for having just purchased from them! ***

Any update on fitment of the aforementioned glan nuts? TIA! -Todd

I've got a n/a L28 from a '78 with FI. Harness too. No trans, but with clutch and flywheel. In Piedmont, OK (NW of OKC). Just came out of the car this last weekend. Feel free to PM if you don't find what you need elsewhere! Thanks!

I've just upped my dose of Zyban to try to quit smoking (again) so my head's a little more fuzzy than normal today. Literally, I'm not in my right mind at the moment! Normally I'd respond sarcastically in a just-poking-fun way, but I don't trust myself to type it in a way that would be funny and not just piss you off. It's funny in my head, though. The original problem was that this adapter didn't fit on my 280's hub because the wheel bearing interfered with the too-small "doughnut hole" of the wheel adapter. Fixed it by opening the doughnut hole on my lathe to tightly fit over said area of interference. All better now. Mostly I was curious as to what hub this adapter was actually designed for. Seems nobody knew. It's REdesigned to fit a 280 hub now! Oddly, the studs on this particular set of adapters... the Honda bolt pattern part... are threaded 12x1.25. Pain in the a3 as I can't use my original locking tuner lugs for those wheels and have to buy another set...! WHAT were they THINKING?! Big head + little arms... "I don't think this plan was very well thought out!"

Found a backing plate locally for cheap and milled some slots in it. Bolted up the adapter with four 12x1.25 nuts, trued to center with an indicator, and made the cuts. Done.

Propane-induced heat and my 1.5 ton arbor press indicated that wasn't going to be as simple as you would think. Those bad boys are IN THERE. Considering these adapters are closing in on $200 after shipping from MM, I was not going to rush in to tear them up if I can help it (have to successfully remove and replace 16 studs keeping them square) ... so I posted for advice I'm still considering how I might make a >simple< jig to turn these bad boys with the studs in place while keeping them concentric, but in the meantime want to explore the other options. So nobody happens to know the hub size for a ZX?

Chucking it up in the lathe IS a serious option; My 9x20 will support the swing, but there's no way to chuck the part without making the fixture in either my 3" 3-jaw or 4" 4-jaw. You can't get around the studs to grip the outer face. I will try to get ahols of Ross later today...

I purchased a set of "never installed preowned" wheel adapters some time back. When I purchased them the seller indicated they were for the S30 to fit Honda wheels. The adapter's center hole is too small to fit cleanly over the S30 hub alignment flange. The adapters are marked as follows: MML CROW 4x114.3mm 4x100mm Made In USA The inner diameter measures out to 70.28mm Are these designed for something else? Possibly a ZX? It would be good to know what they are supposed to fit for resale or trade towards what I need. I'd have to press the studs out to chuck it up in the lathe to make them fit, and I really don't want to do that. Thanks -Todd

I was just out taking a drive trying to get my '77 to overheat after a new radiator (it wouldn't...yay!) and noticed a gorgeous yellow Z with what appeared from the road to be a V8 in her sitting on a red trailer in someone's yard. Just wondering who it is as I'd love to come by and take a look sometime. I live maybe 1/4 mile away as the crow flies. I'm in Winding Creek II off of Sara Road. Current projects in the shop are my '77 red rustbucket with an L28ET swap, 'squirted and constantly in a state of transformation and a '78 chassis with a 250GTO rebody that will get all the innards of the '77 when the bodywork is done. Feel free to drop me a message if you happen to see this! Thanks -Todd

I guess I'll have a look around at Ace this afternoon for a long M16x1.5. If that fails I'll give BHJ a call. I'm just surprised this has turned into such a fiasco! Thanks for the pointers!

OK, so where the heck do you get a harmonic damper/balancer installation tool with an M16x1.5 threaded adapter? I waited 2 weeks to get my Comp Cams installer in (mail order) and it included TWO M16x2.0 adapters, but no M16x1.5. Spent 2 1/2 hours on the phone with Comp Cams and they had no idea what I was talking about. Called every auto parts store in the area and nobody has that thread pitch on an install tool. To rent OR buy. Help? I'm in NW Oklahoma City...

Here's the solution I used for the performance damper. Not shown are 4 BHCS to affix the reluctor ring to the adapter. Derek- If you would like the IGS file or toolpath, just drop me a PM and I'll email it to you. I do NOT know how the spacing is with the sensor mount you sell, though, as I do not have one. I can give you measurements if you need them.

Part of my point; the easy location for the air temp sensor is to merely screw it into the intake manifold in an available tapped hole. For the initial install and to get the car running, I took the easy route. There are a couple of threads on the board that discuss the heatsoak of the manifold and sensor that happens when you take the easy route. I have now remedied that problem by drilling a hole in my UICP and installing a bung to allow the IAT sensor to be after the intercooler and before the throttle plate. The new location is behind the radiator support, but allows some airflow over the sensor. The car is currently up on stands gatting a transmission and clutch swap (the PO used a turbo 5-speed with a N/A flywheel and clutch. The turbo tranny groans and was full of metal shavings and the clutch slipped after 6psi, so that had to change.) I should have the transmission in the car this afternoon and hopefully get a chance to drive it by Sunday afternoon. It will probably take a little while before I get a good feel for the changes with the new IAT location, but I can't imagine it's made things worse!

Glad to help. I am kinda surprised that there isn't more info on the board about correcting the little niggly things, but I am pretty picky. What bothers me may not bother everyone. On the IAT location, I don't expect having the sensor in the UCIP will cure the cold weather over-enrichment, but telling MS "the truth" can't be a bad thing. Reducing the heat soak has got to help stabilize the tune. If nothing else it should help bring the base temps down from the 130-plus that I have been seeing. I'm in the middle of a clutch and transmission swap but should be done by the weekend, so I hope to report back then.

Well, after further searching, I came across this on the MSExtra forum: clicky I think I will try moving the IAT to the upper intercooler pipe first and see how that does, then give this a try. My car is also rather unhappy with a hot restart, so it sounds like it may help. I am still open to any thoughts anyone might have on the issue!

It is interesting (to me at least) that the 22k spike didn't seem to get acted upon (according to the other parameters) as a valid input.

May be completely off track, but that log looks extremely similar to mine before I got Magnecor wires in the car. It seems like it could be an EMI issue, plug wires or otherwise. Especially with the resets while driving. On the other hand, I am new to the MS so my two cents aren't worth much. Yet.

Thanks to the help of HybridZ and its members, the car is running great. Good enough to drive it to work to show it off. On the drive home, it was quite cool out and I decided to log the trip. It looks like the cooler IAT's caused an overcorrection of fuel. Attached is an overlay of two nearly identical datalogs from the same .msq file on different days. The only significant differences are IAT and AFR. I currently have my IAT sensor in the intake manifold... would mounting it before the throttle plate help here? I know the manifold and IAT like to heatsoak, but I wasn't expecting this. I'm not thrilled seeing AFR go from a normal cruise of 15.x to a cool-air cruise of 12.x even though temps were 56 degrees from each other. I've searched in the MSextra manuals, but haven't found anything to tune the IAT to fuel correction factors, but I may be using the wrong search terms. Thanks!

Another upside to the wheel adapter is that you don't have to put an old damper through the fatigue of being on the lathe. I think the experience may have compromised mine as it has a low-speed wiggle that I don't remember being there before. The wheel runs perfectly true, though. I'd probably go for an adapter wheel so I don't have to abuse a replacement pulley when the time comes.

I'm not talking about accelerating from 1500 rpm here. Steady state cruise on a flat road between 21-2500 rpm doesn't seem like lugging to me, but it may be. I would expect poor transient response in that range, and if I were to accelerate from there I would indeed downshift. I will look at it as you suggest, though. Maybe it is the driver.

Huh. I dip anywhere near 16 (15.8 or so) and I can feel it chugging. This is under light driving around 40-45 mph, low vac (25-35 kPa) and rpm (about 2100). Maybe I will try leaving it at 15 and targeting 16 with EGO Control. See what that buys me. TrumpetRhapsody: I don't see that this engine (lower compression boosted) is going to "like" driving around with AFRs that low below atmo. I'm in the same boat as Cygnusx1. I get below 15 by much at all and it starts in with very slight hesitations as felt on the SOTP sensor (seat of the pants sensor...you know, the Butt Dyno. No, I can't log that one.) RonTyler: I am going to have to pay more attention to your setup! My high compression Honda D15 will do that (17 and lower AFRs) all day long and smile. The Z will just laugh at me. Possibly even snort in the process. Is this a batch fire/ wasted spark vs sequential issue? Timing values in cruise? Oh, thanks again for the reading material! I started out with Metro's settings from the Mobythevan sticky. I am running it in 2 squirt alternating, and have ended up pulling a good bit of fuel out. I haven't touched timing yet. I'm also trying to keep with safe (rich) values in boost until I can get that knock sensor in to keep the engine together. Destructive testing is NOT the goal.

Revised, and running MUUUUUUCH better. Let the tweaking continue!

MS-I V3 running Extra code. Maybe Hires and MSII have 12x12 AFR tables, but in 1-Extra, this is it. Fuel and spark tables are 12x12, though. Thanks, and I will do some more looking around. Thanks for the help and direction! I'll be posting current street-tuned tables in the sticky before long. Hopefully fill in the gap for an all-stock car on MS1-Extra and EDIS.

Thank you very much for the advice. My previous tuning experience has been on a 1st gen DSM years ago (took it to 535 whp) and on my Honda D15 (tuned to 43-45 avg MPG). They are both a far cry from the L which seems to like things a bit different. All I've had to work with on the L is what I've managed to gather here, and the numbers seemed richer overall than from my previous experience. Since holed pistons tend not to support tuning, any experience I can gain here is goooood. I went MS first before all the other mods begin to get a better understanding of both the L and the MS. I can see now that was, indeed, a wise choice. At what point should I aim for richer AFRs as the boost starts to get turned up? Assuming my current fuel system keeps up, does just hitting 11.5 or so at 10-12 psi seem more like it? Do the cell selections seem OK or should I weigh things more heavily towards off-boost driving by shifing the table down and adding rows in that area? All this power (in MS) means lots of decisions, and some of them seem a bit arbitrary at first. I expect to be adding knock control before too much longer to aid tuning and provide some safety against iffy fuel, and once the T3/T04e is on in the spring I expect to take it to the dyno to "peak" the tune, but in the meantime really prefer it to stay together.

Now that I have most of the issues with my MS1extra / EDIS sorted out and real tuning can begin, I'd love some opinions on my target AFR table. The engine is a stock 83 turbo motor, stock injectors, stock turbo running stock boost for now. Wideband set to 10-20 = 0-5v. Here's the table: Thoughts? Please feel free to weigh in here. The forum seems to lack any definitive information where AFR target tables are concerned, and they seem to vary greatly. I have attempted to aim for the following with the table: 13.8 for idle 14-15 under light cruise 12.5 low/no boost 11.5 under boost I'm in Oklahoma City and my MAP value before cranking is basically always "95". This is always lower than reported barometric pressure, but it'w what the sensor reads