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PSi

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About PSi

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  • Birthday 11/20/79

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    http://www.forced4fords.com
  1. S13 Redtop vs. S13 Blacktop

    NEO VVL ? If so why not just use an SR20VET engine from an X-trail GT S14 -S15 SR's are allready VTC (also known as NVCT) ... -PSi
  2. All electric

    Wouldnt it be easier to buy a new hybrid or a prius? Sell me your Z and spare it from a cruel punishment... Im sure there are much more aero friendly boddies for this project.. -PSi
  3. My official L31DETT RHD thread.

    I read the "will be driving in 24-48 hours" on friday afternoon =).. I posted sunday morning.... Just excited to see it move under its own power... -PSi
  4. Thanks... As stated before the SR isnt my favorite engine from TONS of exp =)..... Im doing it because im tired of working with SR's KA's etc. Im at the stage in my life where I can do things just because... =) -PSi
  5. My official L31DETT RHD thread.

    ???? Still waiting on the uodate, surprisingly im really interested in this project cause its close to my heart (KA-T) =)... -PSi
  6. =) I've owned 2 SpecV's (2002) One aztec red and one blackout... I will say niether was great on gas, and one had more issues than the other (NEVER had burning oil issues) but to make this as simple as possible without starting debate.. Every engine in the world burns oil be it 1/2 qt to 1 qt per 3000-5000 miles... Its just the nature of the beast and the fact that no engine is imaclate (meaning perfection would be nice but its literally impossible) As far as the butterfly screws... They will be removed (the butterflys) this is mainly due to my KA-T expirience with butterfly (very bad under boost and getting boost spike even in warm weather)... Lastly i understand lots of people dont like these engines have problems and so forth and so on i also understand the nature of the beast (only the bad is made public) No one ever gets on a forum and talks about how good a stock engine is, and if they do positive does not out weigh the negative (Ignorance is bliss) ..... Its been this way for years now and ive worked with many QR's no issues... Not to mention its normally SE-R / SpecV owners who complain but in actuallity they are a very small percentage (2%) of the actual amount of QR25 donned vehicles in production and circulation.. I dont ever hear of altima owners saying how many problems the QR has... This leads me to believe with popular opinion that the majority of SE-R owners (SpecV as well) tend to drive the QR a little hard (redline every gear all the time), this would lead to premature engine wear etc. Im building a QR not just putting a stock QR in =) this give me an advantage to all the others (I know what the engine is capable of) and plan to use this advantage... But good call on the gas mileage and the RPM range, this is 100% true as i have read Nissans TSB's (Used to be a Nissan tech before moving on to school and development) .... -PSi
  7. My official L31DETT RHD thread.

    Ive posted this on KA-T.org just so those guys could have something to brag about to SR guys (you didnt use SR heads!) They are amazed... Great work... -PSi
  8. SR20DET clutch question

    But this also tends to be dyno's Last time i was on a dyno we babied it till 3rd and then did a gradual pull nothing stressfull on the clutch... I could be wrong in this but the symptoms your explaining are pretty consistant with the clutch and nothing else... A very little slip in the clutch will feel ike a power loss period... -PSi
  9. There's always a cure for displacement

    Aye... If its tapered not a good idea.... Although im not sure that matters with FI... I could see how a tappered IM would help going small towards #4 ristricting air into the cyl (as not to lean out) but that would be on a vacume system, your forcing air into all 4 cyl's... I may be wrong... -PSi
  10. Nissan Employees

    Victory Nissan Chesapeake : Tech Alliance Nissan Elizabeth City : Tech -PSi
  11. No... This is where the manifold must be flipped.... (I assisted int eh troubleshooting for this on the 240sx...) Basicly you cut the runner close to the intake mani, flip the log over tig them back on and go... Not a huge issue... Your other option is to use the intake mani from the truck but its not a log style (basicly the MAFS sits on top of a lower intake track) Not a good idea for any type of top end performance but great for low end tq, as this creates a dif turbulance and shorter intake runner developing max tq much sooner... -PSi
  12. The head is completely dif, the tunes are dif, other that that they are the same... Im using the frontier block for its RWD setup (mounts will be easier to make brackets) The ECU from the sentra and the altima being dif also means the harness is dif.. Thus creating the same issue of port access.... Im also not sure i can use the 6speed tranny from the SPec just hoping really otherwise im stuck with a rwd version (made for the truck) ... I had thought of the altima head being better possibly due to the nature of the valve overlap on cam lobes... Im gonna boost it so overlap+turbo = bad NA high reving cams actually hurt turbo engines.. The Altima has NA cams but are more like a truck setup meaning the powerband is made more for hauling a large car than for mid-upper lvl power range from the spec... Thanks for mentioning that whole Altima thing otherwise i would have never considered looking at the cam spec of each head... -PSi
  13. There's always a cure for displacement

    Question? The instake manifold faces the wrong way, how do you plan on taking care of this? If your making an IM cool but otherwise your options are very limited.... Another option would be to have the throttle body side welded with a plate and cut the wall off of the front end of the IM then devise a way to bolt the TB on... Im just interested in what your plan was no matter how you do it, its possible... -PSi
  14. I havent found one yet but it will hve to be mixed and matched... The info i have come up with as to the best build: SpecV ECU SER or SPecV Harness Frontier Block SER head Frontier belhousing SPecV 6 speed tranny SER intake manifold and injectors The issue becomes the drive by wire, but can be made to work with simple wirring expirience and the module from any drive by wire Nissan (as they all share the same signal module partn #) The ignition also becomes an issue... Nissan now has a coded key lockout system meaning if the ECU doesnt sense that the key is coded the ECu will auto shut down (anti theft)... Not all QR's were equipped with this feature so its possible to get one without the coded key feature (but in a junkyard you will never know) This can be erased by consult (Nissan diagnostic and tune tool) But the issue is if you dont have it in a post 2002 sentra you wont be able to access with Consult due to no port. Im working on a conversion harness for Consult as we speak for a QR25DE in a 1990 240sx S13... (im only working on the electronics i did not do the swap) The last option you have is going standalone thus eliviating the need for an ECU (Im not going this route if i do it) ...... The driveshaft shold be comparable to the Z's original as Nissan hasnt changed these much other than circumfrence (sp?) so the flang and imput shoud be able to be moddified to work.. -PSi
  15. SR20DET clutch question

    How long have you been driving this car and how long did you give the clutch to break in?? Im not sure what the clutch is made of but if its not kevlar it may have been glazed... Im not saying you suck at driving and that you cant drive stick im just saying if the clutch is rated max tq less than you are actually putting down, then it is possible that at hard launches and hard acceleration, you may have inadvertantly (sp?) glazed the clutch disc, and if you know anyhting about clutches the only material that when cooled deglazes is kevlar.... If your clutch isnt kevlar its possible you have slowly glazed your clutch and this is why t seems like you have lost power... Just an oppinion but its based on facts.... -PSi
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