Jump to content
HybridZ

XplosiveLugnut

Members
  • Content count

    21
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About XplosiveLugnut

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 05/03/91

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Huntsville, Alabama
  • Interests
    Had mine since 12/25/13.

    Built December '70. It now has a Maxima 5 speed and mostly new wiring.
  1. L24 Crank Damper Replacement Options

    Thanks for the feedback! Still thinking about it, but I'm leaning towards KevvinG's solution. I know I've thought about doing exactly that at one point. I don't think I liked that the trigger wheel was held on with two bolts or that it wouldn't be located easily with only two bolts. But if it's been done successfully, it seems like the easiest way to do it. Did you go to any great pains to make sure the trigger wheel had no runout? I really like the flywheel method too. It'll be perfect for my other project that's in a million pieces, but I'm in no hurry to take the flywheel back off my current driver. It's also aluminum, so there'd be a few more steps involved. And that might not even be a good idea to begin with.
  2. L24 Crank Damper Replacement Options

    So the damper on my 240 has separated about half an inch. Glad it didn't fly apart before I noticed, that would've gotten expensive. Some considerations for replacements: I've been wanting a crank trigger wheel to start working on a distributor-less ignition/EFI project and it needs two rows for AC. I figure I've got 4 options: * Buy a used L28 damper (see you guys in the classifieds!) and bolt a DIYAutoTune type trigger wheel to the front where the third row would go. * Have my damper rebuilt and still not have a good trigger wheel solution aside from the Hoke Performance kit. * Get some brand new expensive trick custom thing like an ATI or BHJ damper. * Luck out on the classifieds and get offered something that works with no modification on my end. Any thoughts? Other options I've not thought of? Anyone have experience with these solutions? Thanks!
  3. Going to try making a fan shroud. 240Z

    Excellent! Thanks!
  4. Recently I had a bit of a rad-hit-fan snafu. I had the rad recored ('murica) and am now using a 280Z 8 blade clutch fan instead of the 5 blade flex fan that it had when I bought it. It's never had cooling issues while driving, but it can now sit idle far longer before it starts to heat soak and run poorly/try to die. I've decided to try and fix this altogether with a fan shroud. Now for the question! Can anyone get me the inner diameter of a 280Z's shroud opening? I don't want to make the opening too small and the engine rock the fan into the shroud. I figure what ever Nissan came up with would be a safe option. Thanks!
  5. I placed mine between the battery and the heater hoses on the firewall. I have another just like it that I intend to mount up in the passenger side kick panel below the glove box (where the relays are/use to be). Though I've been lazy and have left it lying on the floor (Yes, it's wired. Just not securely mounted anywhere. Yes that's probably dangerous. Nothing to see there.). It's all still a bit messy, but when it runs as good as it does, I'd rather drive it than work on it. Edit: Guess you'd like to know if I've had issues. None to report. Pretty happy with the location. Nice and convenient/easy to access. Had to use some standoffs when mounting it over the ridge in the firewall.
  6. Need a cooling fan. '71 240Z *Edit: A fan clutch would be nice too.

    Thanks for the offers! Part's on the way. Thread is dead.
  7. Last weekend, my radiator and fan had a disagreement. So I need a fan. Any plastic fan from an S30 will do. 7 or 8 blade. PayPal would be nice. Thanks! *Edit: My old fan was a flex fan. I'll be going with the stock clutch type setup. So I'll need a clutch as well. I'd planned on just buying a new one. But I'll hold off in case someone's got one in good shape along with a fan.
  8. WTB set of steelies.

    Those look like they're in great shape! This Saturday I'm going to take RebekahsZ's advice and try my local Z yard, I hadn't thought of checking the spare wheel wells. If I can only find one or two, I'll definitely have yours shipped down here. If I find at least three (miracle?), I guess I'll be good to go. Thanks!
  9. WTB set of steelies.

    I'm looking for the cheapest way to get a "good" (you know... not out of round and such) set of wheels. I figure a set of steelies would be my best bet. I have one already (the spare), so I only really need three but would prefer four. I also don't need tires, mine are very fresh. I have a "set" of 4 slotted mags. (Only 2 of them appear to be identical) Aesthetically, I think they're awesome. Mechanically, they kinda suck. One of them is out of round, so I'm using my one steely. I'd like them to match it. They're all the same right? A set of four that match each other is fine too. If anything will be a deal breaker here, it'll probably be shipping. I have no idea what it costs to ship three or four of these things. I'm in north Alabama. I'd be willing to drive a few hours to pick 'em up if I get that lucky. Thanks for viewing!
  10. 5 speed swap underway, how much should I replace?

    The new rear main seal is on it's way. I don't know if my judge of flywheel ring teeth wear is worth squat, but looking at the teeth in person, it doesn't look bad. All the teeth are worn uniformly, no big gouged out areas or missing teeth. The starter however does look worn out. I'm getting a new gear reduction starter and wiring in a relay to help out the solenoid. I figure this will be an improvement. Just my luck though, it'll grind on the first attempt.
  11. So I've gotten an '84 Maxima 5 speed, and this weekend I've managed to pull out everything all the way up to the crank shaft. Need weekend it'll be time to put it all back together but I've gotta go on a little shopping spree first. Gonna need a new starter, shifter bushings, etc... My questions are, I can't tell if the wear on the flywheel teeth is "too much" or not. I also have conflicting ideas about tampering with the rear main seal. I figure "while I'm down there" I should put a fresh one in. But I also have that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" feeling. Here are some pics of the flywheel teeth and the rear main seal. So, sometime when attempting to crank the Z, I'd get a sharp startling grinding sound. The starter has never unexpectedly disengaged, but it has sometimes failed to engage initially. I don't know if it's mostly due to how much the starter is worn or the flywheel or both. The flywheel's not missing any teeth, they're all just a bit deformed. Also, is that oil on the end of the crank a problem? How easy is it to screw up a rear main seal installation? Thanks! Also, plenty more pictures where those came from here.
  12. '75 - '78 clock wanted. (Late 260Z / most 280Z's)

    That is ideal! Can you PM me your asking price and preferred method of payment? Thanks!
  13. I'll take one that doesn't run!*** A working one would be great, but if all the clock needs are some new caps or a new transistor, etc, I'm confident I can get it running again. ***If it's not in good mechanical shape (the insides that is) then I'm not in the market for it. ***The coil shouldn't be damaged either. (e.g. burnt up by a soldering iron) Cosmetics arn't a big deal. Thanks a lot! The attached PDF has plenty of details. How to fix your 260Z or 280Z clock - rev 1 (1).pdf
  14. *hypothetical* "Bolt on" throttle body carb replacement

    After taking some more measurements and making some estimations it looks like the intake runner's bore is about 48 mm in diameter. So the carb's not 44 mm all the way through. It also looks like the piston and bridge(?) cause some restriction. Would a throttle body that tapers from 44 mm to 48 mm with no restriction, like the piston or bridge, be too sensitive? One of the ideas behind the EFI conversion is improved drive-ability and an on/off throttle is a step in the wrong direction.
×