Jump to content
HybridZ

rossman

Donating Members
  • Posts

    1381
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Everything posted by rossman

  1. It's good to hear that you guys have had good experience with them. I hate bashing vendors, everyone makes mistakes and maybe I was just the unlucky one. Anyway, in the end, besides the problems I had with delivery and product quality, I feel there are better and cheaper options. The tank suffers from the dreaded left turn air sucking lean condition - same as the stock fuel tank. If I were to do it all again, I would go with one of the many drop-in solutions that are on the market today or delete the spare tire well (I don't carry one anyway) and install a fuel cell.
  2. Have you guys ever bought anything from Zfever before? My experience when buying an S30 aluminum fuel tank from them was less than stellar. Hopefully their service has improved but I would be wary of a shop who promises a 4 week lead time but actually delivers a defective product more than 4 months later after numerous excuses instead of being straight with me. I ended up paying them $800 for the tank then another $100 for a local fab shop to relocate the fill pipe into the correct position.
  3. Congrats Sanchez! Glad to hear you figured it out. What CAD software are you using for the schematic wiring? I recently downloaded KiCAD but haven't really used it yet.
  4. Yup, north of $15k just for labor (depending on the shop and your location). Proper custom fabrication ain't cheap or easy. To do it right and do it yourself, assuming you don't already have the knowledge (custom programmable fuel injection, forced induction, S30/L6 quirks, electrical circuits, wiring, etc.), skills required (welding, wiring, crimping, tube bending, etc.), and tools (welder, welding tools, quality crimpers, tube/pipe bending/flaring, DMM, grinder, chop/miter saw, sander, etc.)...the learning curve is significantly steep. Lots of reading/learning (mostly Googling and some books), practice, and trial and error, are required, not to mention the considerable investment in quality tools, which can make it into the multi-thousands of dollars depending on your tool preferences. Personally, being somewhat of an introverted, gear head, mechanical engineer, and hotrodder, the love of all things Datsun, technical challenges of learning, skills development, trial and error, and tools ARE the reason I do it. YMMV of course!
  5. Go here: Google is your friend. Type your search term followed by "site:hybridz.org" to search only this site.
  6. Aydin gave you good advice. I would also recommend that you do the cylinders 5 & 6 coolant bypass head modification (search) and plug the internal bypass in the block. The cooling system on these old heads is marginal, even in NA form. The key to turboing them is to avoid detonation which can destroy the engine in a matter of seconds, especially if you're running stock pistons and rods.
  7. I still check out quite a few HZ posts and read most of yours here and on Instagram. A lot of folks moved to Facebook years ago. I'm old skool, preferring forums over the other social media options.
  8. Looks good! I'm sure it will be fine. My setup with two 45 swivel fittings only leaves like .5" of hose. It's not ideal either but it hasn't given me any problems since I installed it in 2008.
  9. That's interesting. Thanks for the heads up. It's certainly worth more reading as it's a PITA to get the liners out. Most of the info I've found on the heads with liners is dated, and written when better heads were still plentiful.
  10. Honestly I'm not the right guy to answered your questions regarding porting an enngine. There are far more experienced people on HZ, or at least there used to be. I was referring to the runners being tapered. Wider at the plenum than the head. I port matched my intake and head but I'm running a custom tapered runner intake. I also turbo'd my car for the most bang for buck while keeping the l6. I will also be turboing my son's ZX. He has the later p79 round port head with exhaust liners. We plan to remove the liners.
  11. Personally, I think you are over thinking it unless you are building a high end race engine but it doesn't sound like that from reading your post. You didn't talk about the rest of your build. Should we assume that you are optimizing the rest of the system so that the details you are worried about will make a significant difference? I would assume that you are running full custom EFI. You should also consider getting a better flowing intake that is actually wider at the plenum - like the one that ProTunerz makes or you could design and build your own. As an alternative you could cut off the stock manifold air plenum and open up the other end and weld it back on if you want to keep the stocker for some reason. Anyway, it's just my $0.02.
  12. The front end of my first s30, a bone stock '76 would lift up at ~70mph, at least that's what I remember. It's been 30 years or so. Agree with Calz that it's a matter of personal taste. Stick with what you got, you may end up preferring them. Personally, what I don't like about projector type headlights on the S30 is what they look like lit up. I prefer the more traditional look of an old-school headlight.
  13. It sux to have to cover up that beautiful header but overall your setup still looks amazing.
  14. I didn't know either so after a bit of Googling I got a hit to a company selling a 3.4L RB30 stroker kit.
  15. Very cool wingwalker! I have to check out your book. Thank you for your service! As a kid brought up on Looney Tunes, every time I see Walla Walla WA, I think of the Little Giant Vacuum Cleaner Co. 😆
  16. Yah, after more consideration I believe I'm passing on an internet myth. I'll confirm with one of the thermo analysts at work when I get a chance. Yup, confirmed. There are "other reasons" to run at higher temperatures but I'm not going to guess or pass on more myths
  17. A hotter thermostat slows the coolant thru the engine allowing more time for thermal conductivity from the water jackets to the coolant thus pulling more heat out.
  18. Yep, I wasn't going to bring it up since I didn't want to derail the thread but...I have a printer in my lab at work that will print Ultem plastic that has a glass transition temperature of over 400F. Printing in metal tends to be much more expensive than machining, but if it's something that cannot be easily machined (which this can) or requires multiple processes to produce (which this does not) then all of a sudden printing metal can make sense.
  19. Yep, understood. It could be printed fairly easy, maybe in ultem or some other high temp plastic. Protolabs could give you a quick online quote. You'd loose the "cool" factor though!
  20. Looking good! I have your original one, might have sell it and get this one :). There is more to it than laser cutting, right? The shape appears like it would have to be milled or casted. When do you expect to start selling them?
  21. Lookin' good! If you haven't already, you should consider porting the wastegate hole. Make the ID of the hole about 2mm smaller than OD of the flapper. Also round off any sharp edges where it transitions to the turbine. What is that material you are using for heat shielding around your manifold and turbine?
  22. Seems to me that it's probably running way too rich. Have you tried leaning out the carbs?
  23. I finally welded on the top panel😁. Got a little too aggressive with the grinder on the spot welds... nothing a little filler can't take care of.
×
×
  • Create New...