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rossman

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Everything posted by rossman

  1. Damn they're already giving it to the Smithsonian.
  2. Oh, and to answer your question. You can tighten the spring to make it run more lean. There are instructions how to do it in one of the links I sent. Basically you loosen the screw that holds tension on the spring, adjust the spring tighter then tighten down the screw. Again, this may be a band-aid fix if it is running rich because of a bad temperature sensor signal.
  3. If I'm understanding what you wrote correctly it sounds like the engine is running too rich. So, when you push the AIR FLOW METER flapper in the direction that closes it off, it runs better? That has the affect of leaning out the air-fuel mixture. You may not have found the problem - that may just be a band-aid if something else is causing it to run rich. Make absolutely sure your temperature sensor is working correctly and that all of its connectors are clean. Don't forget the bullet connector. If you haven't found that one then you haven't fixed the problem. By "clean" I mean that all the corrosion on the tips of both sides of the connectors are clean. I used a little bit of sand paper and a small file to get mine clean back in the day. Clean the prongs on one side and shove the sand paper inside the female part on the other. Once it is clean put a little dielectric grease in there to inhibit further corrosion.
  4. To find the bullet connectors, just follow the wires coming out of the connector back towards the back of the engine. Read this: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm and this (FI bible): http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf
  5. Your car doesn't have a mass air flow sensor. It has an air flow meter (AFM). The AFM is a large box ahead of and in line with the throttle body. So what is it that you replaced? Have you read the fuel injection bible? The temperature sensor is on the front of the head in the thermostat housing. Clean the connector on the sensor and the harness side and the bullet connectors just upstream from the connector. SEARCH my friend and your questions will be answered.
  6. I purchase as set of Precision made DSM 3000GT injectors. The "o-ring" that fits between the tip of the injector and the intake manifold is too big. I was contemplating using standard torus shaped o-rings (circular cross section) instead of the stock rectangular toroid o-ring. My concern is that it won't seal properly in the stock intake manifold hole. I am also worried that my Pallnet style fuel rail won't have enough clamping force to compress the stock o-ring. Has anybody had luck getting a good seal with a standard o-ring?
  7. Thanks for the offer. No offense but I just can't imagine having those monstrous things behind my beautiful Panasports.
  8. "Sorry, the message you have requested could not be found." What was it?
  9. I would love to have that setup but it's not in the budget at the moment.
  10. As the subject says, I'm looking for a rear disk conversion parts for an S30. Brackets Disks SS hose Calipers
  11. I have an an Aeromotive A1000-6, exactly like this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13109/ Brand new open box - $100 + shipping.
  12. Did you ever find an answer to your question? I'm looking at a maxima caliper setup. I don't want to get it if I'm going to have a hard time finding good pads for it.
  13. Are you referring to the pipe at the front drivers side of the block? That is a crank case breather pipe. It is there on all L series engines but had different shape pipes thru the years. You can safely cut it short and put a rubber elbow on it. DO NOT block it off. It needs to go to the intake/PCV, catch can, or just put a filter on it. Yes
  14. We're waiting. . . . Seriously though, I would really like to see it so I can learn something about tuning.
  15. I'm definitely no expert here but I think the L series "hyper sensitivity to detonation" (as BRAAP puts it) theory goes something like the following. For whatever reason (poor/marginally designed/manufactured or just out dated) Nissan L series heads develop localized pockets of stagnant coolant during operation. If or when nucleic (spot) boiling occurs in those pockets, the vapor can collect and form an insulating layer between the liquid coolant and the cylinder head walls. Vapor has very little thermal conductivity (compared to water, NPG, etc.) resulting in hot localized head temperatures. These hot localized head temperatures result in a head that is prone to detonation. It appears that Evans NPG addresses the problem by providing a higher boiling point (the temperature at which liquid turns to vapor) and, according to their literature, "any locally generated vapor is immediately condensed back to liquid coolant avoiding the development of an insulating layer of vapor." This property of the coolant keeps the head walls wet allowing for much greater localized heat transfer as compared to a vapor layer. I don't trust marketing hype so I am looking for some real world testing. TimZ is one data point favoring Evan's NPG. If I remember correctly his setup is pushing out some serious power which would significantly tax the old L6 cooling system. So do you think it's correct to say that a higher overall temperature in the head due to NPG's lower heat transfer is negligible assuming the cooling system has the heat rejection capacity to keep up? Sorry ozconnection for kinda going off topic...
  16. Have you considered using a waterless coolant replacement like Evans Waterless Coolant ( http://www.evanscooling.com/assets/pdfs/HighPerformanceCoolantFlyer.pdf )? I am considering NPGR for my turbo project.
  17. I'm actually banking on that statement. Dave Rebello pretty much told me the same thing when I expressed concern about boring out my block to 89mm. I think the difference here is I'm looking to get "only" 450ish whp out of mine where 1 fast z is pushing out considerably more.
  18. This is a pretty common problem with these cars. and I bet you could figure out the problem. The EFI Bible ( http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf ) can help diagnose the problem. Lots of information here too: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm A quick Google search came up with this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-13077.html and this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128238 Clean all of your FI connectors with a good connector cleaner. Double check that your temp sensor and AFM. My experience is that most regular shops know nothing about these old FI systems.
  19. Also, as Flatblack says, make sure you got the right throw out bearing collar otherwise you will be taking it apart again. You need the collar that matches the pressure plate. If you have a 240mm pressure plate you need a collar off a 280zx turbo or 2+2. Nissan still sells them.
  20. You need to shorten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts. They are bottoming out in the flywheel. Do a search, it is a common problem with Fidanza flywheels. Take it to a machine shop. They can drill it out or weld on a bolt head and back it out.
  21. I have an new Aeromotive FPR like this one that I will let go for $110 + shippping. New, never used, just opened the box.
  22. Assuming you are using Windows...You should be able to go into Windows settings and increase the font size. I don't know exactly how to do it though.
  23. Can a mod fix the title? I'm assuming is supposed to be "fastest" not "fasted." Hopefully I'll be posting my 1/4 mile times this summer.
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