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EuroDat

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EuroDat last won the day on December 29 2012

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About EuroDat

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  1. EuroDat

    280z won't start

    I agree, I would do a little more research in the FSM before replacing relays. I don't know if your AFM circuit is the problem. I would expect you could get it to start, but not run because when the motor is cranking the ignition circuit bypasses the AFM circuit to activate the relay. The fuel relay A13-000 002 is the same as the bosch 0 332 514 120. If its the realy then that will give you more options. I have been using the bosch unit for years.
  2. You can still get them from any nissan dealer. Speedo adapter O-ring 24x2.5mm $0.40 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil~32710-14600.html Speedo Pinion oil seal 10/16x4.2mm $1.17 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil~32709-14600.html
  3. I fitted an MSA 240Z fibreglass air-dam to my 280Z. I agree with the auwfull tolerances. Even the holes for the indicators were all over the place. It fitted best behind the headlight bucket.
  4. Hi Jason, I have some figures on push rod throw. Thats the amount it will travel when you depress the clutch pedal. Ill dig it up tomorrow and post it. It might be some help when you bleed the clutch and check how far it travels. Cheers Chas
  5. The spigot bearing is where the tip of the input shaft enters the rear of the crankshaft. There are two types available. A Bronze bush or a Ball bearing. If the bronze bush is dry it can cause drag which will make it difficult to get into reverse and require extra pressure on the stick to get it into the forward gears. The same goes for the ball bearing type. If the bearing is dry or seized it will also create drag with the same effect as the dry bronze bush. Your forward gears are still shifting fine because the synchros are doing their work and "synchronize" the two shafts. Its also a sign that they are still in good condition. Try this for a simple test while the car is standing still with engine running. Put it into fifth and then quickly shift to reverse. That way all the shafts will be stationary (while in fifth) and you should be able to get it into reverse before the input shaft speeds up too much. You should be able to get it into reverse with out too much grinding. The longer you wait after pulling it out of reverse the more it will grind. With a bit of luck it will just be air or worn out clutch MC or slave. Thats the most likly cause. Like Jon said, if you change them, change both. I would also get a new hydraulic hose as well. Old hoses can sometimes flex (expand under pressure) and reduce travel as well. I included a cross sectional drawing of the clutch. The spigot bearing is blue in colour. Chas Edit: Pilot bearings and Spigot bearings are the same thing.
  6. Just to add some other possibilities after bleeding the clutch. Are you using the same clutch/pressure plate or one that came with the new block? If its your original clutch, did you check the spigot bearing in the crankshaft. Things that can cause your problem are: -Air in you hydraulics reducing clutch travel. -Dry or binding spigot bearing in the crank causing drag and not disengaging input shaft. -Clutch disc sticking on input shaft splines and won't move away from flywheel not letting the clutch disengage. The clutch disc actually moves back and forth a small amount when disengaging and engaging. -For some reason its fitted with an adjustable slave cylinder push rod with incorrect adjustment. Shouldn't be in a 280ZX, but possible. Chas
  7. I don't have a spare, but just wondering why you need a 5 speed bellhousing. I believe the 4 speed will also work and they are easier to find. You just need to relocate the switch on the selectors.
  8. EuroDat

    leak at speedometer cable to transmission

    Your leak is most probably the speedopinion oil seal. The o-ring on the speedo housing is also a possiblity, but its a static seal where the pinion Lip seal has constant rotating wear. The parts you will need Oil seal 32709-14600 (for speedo pinion shaft) +/- $3.00 O-Ring 32710-14600 (for speedo pinion housing) +/- $1.50 Dont know what you mean about the collar?
  9. EuroDat

    Deutschland s30 owners?

    You might want to check out this thread. He was planning this last year. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/47089-holy-balls-im-moving-germany-yes-z-comin-along.html Good luck you your trip and stay in Germany.
  10. EuroDat

    Front oil seal leak. Diff shop wants out off car.

    I would remove the diff and consider taking it to another diff shop. BTW I have never seen a tailshaft seize up that bad that you cant get it out. Something like that could happen if you left a car standing 20 years, but still unlikly.
  11. Sounds like its the best way to go about it. Just wonder why the PO would remove the yellow wire?????
  12. Tool? You can bleed the clutch hydraulics at the bleeder on the slave cylinder and someone in the car to push down the clutch peddle. You need a small 8mm ring spanner for the bleeder. If it full of fluid its probably worn out. Tip: Loosen the hydraulic hose before removing the slave cylinder. That way you can screw the slave cylinder off by hand.
  13. EuroDat

    2 transmissions in 2 days?!

    Cant be certain but I think the roll pin break out caused your problem. That way the selector fork could slide up and down the selector shaft. The detents lock the shaft, but the fork is this in first gear. All your symptoms point to this kind of problem. It will be interesting to see what is inside the 4sp.
  14. EuroDat

    2 transmissions in 2 days?!

    I would like to see photos of the selector fork roll pins. Its just a hunch, but I think that could also be a likly source of the problem. If a pin sheers through, the fork can slide back and forward on the selector shaft. The detents on the selector fork will work normally giving that click feel but wont prevent interlocking which is what you discribe (locking rear wheels) and the photos show the result.
  15. Im using the G-Machine and it works fine. Replaced the PU bushes. You get that a lot More "noise" with the PU bushing sets too. They are harsher than original rubber bushes. It steers a lot better through bumpy corners now. I used these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC10/23-4190
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