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EuroDat

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Everything posted by EuroDat

  1. I agree, I would do a little more research in the FSM before replacing relays. I don't know if your AFM circuit is the problem. I would expect you could get it to start, but not run because when the motor is cranking the ignition circuit bypasses the AFM circuit to activate the relay. The fuel relay A13-000 002 is the same as the bosch 0 332 514 120. If its the realy then that will give you more options. I have been using the bosch unit for years.
  2. You can still get them from any nissan dealer. Speedo adapter O-ring 24x2.5mm $0.40 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil~32710-14600.html Speedo Pinion oil seal 10/16x4.2mm $1.17 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil~32709-14600.html
  3. I fitted an MSA 240Z fibreglass air-dam to my 280Z. I agree with the auwfull tolerances. Even the holes for the indicators were all over the place. It fitted best behind the headlight bucket.
  4. Hi Jason, I have some figures on push rod throw. Thats the amount it will travel when you depress the clutch pedal. Ill dig it up tomorrow and post it. It might be some help when you bleed the clutch and check how far it travels. Cheers Chas
  5. The spigot bearing is where the tip of the input shaft enters the rear of the crankshaft. There are two types available. A Bronze bush or a Ball bearing. If the bronze bush is dry it can cause drag which will make it difficult to get into reverse and require extra pressure on the stick to get it into the forward gears. The same goes for the ball bearing type. If the bearing is dry or seized it will also create drag with the same effect as the dry bronze bush. Your forward gears are still shifting fine because the synchros are doing their work and "synchronize" the two shafts. Its also a sign that they are still in good condition. Try this for a simple test while the car is standing still with engine running. Put it into fifth and then quickly shift to reverse. That way all the shafts will be stationary (while in fifth) and you should be able to get it into reverse before the input shaft speeds up too much. You should be able to get it into reverse with out too much grinding. The longer you wait after pulling it out of reverse the more it will grind. With a bit of luck it will just be air or worn out clutch MC or slave. Thats the most likly cause. Like Jon said, if you change them, change both. I would also get a new hydraulic hose as well. Old hoses can sometimes flex (expand under pressure) and reduce travel as well. I included a cross sectional drawing of the clutch. The spigot bearing is blue in colour. Chas Edit: Pilot bearings and Spigot bearings are the same thing.
  6. Just to add some other possibilities after bleeding the clutch. Are you using the same clutch/pressure plate or one that came with the new block? If its your original clutch, did you check the spigot bearing in the crankshaft. Things that can cause your problem are: -Air in you hydraulics reducing clutch travel. -Dry or binding spigot bearing in the crank causing drag and not disengaging input shaft. -Clutch disc sticking on input shaft splines and won't move away from flywheel not letting the clutch disengage. The clutch disc actually moves back and forth a small amount when disengaging and engaging. -For some reason its fitted with an adjustable slave cylinder push rod with incorrect adjustment. Shouldn't be in a 280ZX, but possible. Chas
  7. I don't have a spare, but just wondering why you need a 5 speed bellhousing. I believe the 4 speed will also work and they are easier to find. You just need to relocate the switch on the selectors.
  8. Your leak is most probably the speedopinion oil seal. The o-ring on the speedo housing is also a possiblity, but its a static seal where the pinion Lip seal has constant rotating wear. The parts you will need Oil seal 32709-14600 (for speedo pinion shaft) +/- $3.00 O-Ring 32710-14600 (for speedo pinion housing) +/- $1.50 Dont know what you mean about the collar?
  9. You might want to check out this thread. He was planning this last year. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/open-general-discussions/47089-holy-balls-im-moving-germany-yes-z-comin-along.html Good luck you your trip and stay in Germany.
  10. I would remove the diff and consider taking it to another diff shop. BTW I have never seen a tailshaft seize up that bad that you cant get it out. Something like that could happen if you left a car standing 20 years, but still unlikly.
  11. Sounds like its the best way to go about it. Just wonder why the PO would remove the yellow wire?????
  12. Tool? You can bleed the clutch hydraulics at the bleeder on the slave cylinder and someone in the car to push down the clutch peddle. You need a small 8mm ring spanner for the bleeder. If it full of fluid its probably worn out. Tip: Loosen the hydraulic hose before removing the slave cylinder. That way you can screw the slave cylinder off by hand.
  13. Cant be certain but I think the roll pin break out caused your problem. That way the selector fork could slide up and down the selector shaft. The detents lock the shaft, but the fork is this in first gear. All your symptoms point to this kind of problem. It will be interesting to see what is inside the 4sp.
  14. I would like to see photos of the selector fork roll pins. Its just a hunch, but I think that could also be a likly source of the problem. If a pin sheers through, the fork can slide back and forward on the selector shaft. The detents on the selector fork will work normally giving that click feel but wont prevent interlocking which is what you discribe (locking rear wheels) and the photos show the result.
  15. Im using the G-Machine and it works fine. Replaced the PU bushes. You get that a lot More "noise" with the PU bushing sets too. They are harsher than original rubber bushes. It steers a lot better through bumpy corners now. I used these http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC10/23-4190
  16. The first tranny sounds like you had a shifter problem. Has anyone fiddled with the detents. Thats the little springs with the ball bearing in the side. It could also be the locking pin that locks the selector fork to the selector shaft. The reason I think this could be the problem is because you grinded it into 3rd and you locked the rear wheels. That grinding was the transmission telling you its still in another gear. Once it engaged it locked the rear wheels. I would check out the selector mechanics for problems. I have never had this problem on one of these transmissions. They are generally known to be reliable for there day with the exception of the FS5W71B with the fibre 5th gear synchro.
  17. If you mean the water temp sensor for the EFI, then its no. That is a completly different wiring harness. If you look at the wiring that goes to the ballast resistor under the coil, the yellow wire comes from there and its the only wire going to the engine. It also follows a thicker black ground cable that goes from the frame just back a little from the coil and it connects to the EFI manifold close to the AAR. Think of the electrical system as two systems. One for the EFI and one for the rest commonly called body electrical even though it has engine electrical (consider it as everything the caby models had). Goodluck searching Chas
  18. Link to the troubleshooting manual http://www.xenons30.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Chas
  19. You are on the right track now. If your working on the temp guage you should be looking in the "body electircal section" of the FSM. Its called a Thermal Transmitter. It should be a yellow wire with a bullet connector somewhere in the area of the thermostat. The two sensors with the square plugs and two small spade terminals are for the EFI system. 1: The Thermotime sensor. Generally the left one when looking from the front of the car. Its also larger then the other sensor units. This is actually a switch and shuts off the cold start injector. It does that two ways. One is if the water temperature is warm it stops the cold start injector when cranking. Second is if you crank the engine too long it will heat up and stop the cold start injector. 2: The temperature sensor to the right of the thermtime switch. This compensates for the engine temperature by adjusting the injector time. The yellow wire is not in the same harness as the other two connectors. Its a part of the body harness. Dont search for it in the EFI harness. It comes from the same harness section where the coil and such comes from. If you are trouble shooting the EFI. Download the 280-Z Fuel Injection manual (Theory and Troubleshooting). It has more detail than the FSM. You might also want to check classiczcars and search their forum " temperature sensor" lots of good threadsabout this stuff. Godluck chas
  20. FWIW I would think it out good before starting any "upgrade". First changing the back without doing anything with the front can really effect balance. One thing you should always keep in the back of your mind when doing this is: This system you are changing has had a whole R&D team working on the design and endless testing. You are making, more or less, a prototype and testing it on a quiet back street to get the balance "right". We just dont have the huge resources to do it much better than that. Has anyone done the complete 280ZX swap? The 280ZX brakes are made for a heavier car and are better balanced front to rear.
  21. Here is a set of originals on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-280Z-77-78-hood-vent-louver-Nissan-Fair-lady-/160955813049?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2579b6ccb9&vxp=mtr I must admit, they are pretty steep price wise. The ad doesnt mention the guards, maybe he still has them. I have seen a set last year for $75 including 2 splash guards. He made a slash guard for the right on as well.
  22. Is that your manifold in the photo? Thats an interesting way to connect the A/C fast idle actuator (shown in photo with ? ). Normally its operated by two solenoid valves and a vacuum tank. The way the vacuum line is now connected to the manifold wont work properly. Chas
  23. Nice video. Im planning to do the same with my 280z with the 240z bumpers. Slowly getting all the parts together. I always thought the number plate lights were the same. Just got my taillights and surrounds yesterday. Looks like ill need to find the number plate light as well.
  24. The coolant bottle is located in front of the radiator and behind the 280z right indicator. If you dont have one the coolant that is pushed out due to thermal expansion will be lost. You will get an air gap in the top of the radiator when its cold. The fluid will drop about 1" to 1-1/2" when its cold. Some say this can have a negative effect on corrosion. Negative meaning it will increase it. Air contains oxygen and everytime the egine heats up and cools down its refreshing the supply of oxygen. This will brake down the inhibitor over time. The drain plug is located behind the exhaust manifold just before the transmission (about 5" in front of transmission). You will need a 22mm socket.
  25. There not european. They have the parklight function in the turn signal indicator. In Europe the 260Z all had the parklight function in the (H4) headlight. You will find them in australia, New Zealand. Try VicZcar.com.au
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