Jump to content
HybridZ

AZGhost

Members
  • Posts

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
    Arizona

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

AZGhost's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. if only these could fit our car. Damn left hand drive stearing linkage!
  2. Thanks for the valuable info! What kind of glasspack did you us?
  3. lol those trunk monkey commercials are priceless... forgot all about those Going to a distributorless system, so no more coil, its all coil on a wire now. I was thinking behind the driver seat, because a thief to me checks glove box, and center console if he cant see anything. Ill have to check out some of Tony's ideas. Thanks!
  4. So as my build is getting closer to complete, I am really starting to think about tricks to keep a potential thief from driving off with it. Has anyone put any kind of kill switch on the starter or fuel pump? Any advantages or disadvantages of one over the other? Any other ideas? Not looking for an alarm system. Just something more simple but yet would deter someone after about 2-5 minutes of trying to figure out how to start the car before they just give up. I was thinking of putting in a kill switch behind the driver seat that would run between the key and the switch to the fuel pump. Im figuring if the kill switch is in front of you somewhere, it most likely will be found, but behind the seat, maybe not so much. Father in law thinks perhaps a button you have to hold in while turning the key to make the starter work. Maybe both? Both are rather simple installs to do. Suggestions welcomed
  5. So I called up MSA on Monday. Someone was supposed to tell me the washers were separate when I ordered it they said (was a phone order)... So I have 6 step down washers coming to me whenever they get back in stock... Another week or so waiting, not a big deal, I got way too much going on right now with this build on other parts of the car. Spent a day and a half pulling apart the entire front end on this thing and reassembling it. Now its onto the rear...
  6. Hey Ben, I found that as well last week, it looks like good info. Ill keep the fusable links on for now. I got a lot of other stuff to worry about and that mod seems simple enough where I can do it later on down the road...
  7. so its ok that the washer is going to cockeyed?
  8. So we got the header mocked up on the engine from thezstore.com, and we have the cannon in take on the head as well. You can see the header is slightly thicker than the intake. There is about an 1/8th of an inch difference. The stud kit we got with it as well, came with no washers weirdly enough. We think washers need to be used in order to torque down the manifolds together. No? (Thats what it looks like on my old engine anyways) We can build a step down washer if needed, but we think it should just all bolt together... I sent an email over to the zstore to see whats up. What do you guys think? Is this normal there should be some fitment adjustment? Dont get me wrong, these headers are beautiful, and nice and thick. Definately some quality here, but on the mounting it just has an issue lining up.
  9. AZGhost

    new build

  10. Here is a video of the linkage. You can see how close that bolt comes to hitting the carb. We had to bend out the bracket so it wouldnt be so close. We then had to grind off a buldge on the arm to allow it to go full throttle. Otherwise it was preventing the carb from opening up all the way. You can kind of see our grind on that arm at 25 seconds in. anyways, we think we have it where it will work... We also added an additional washer to the throttle as well to kind of space it out a bit. But we were more comfortable with it after we had bent it out a bit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTishPGtpK4
  11. Ah no worries Ben. I purchased a low volume fuel pump thats supposed to be correct at maintaining the 2.5 to 3 psi so no pressure regulator is needed. Im told volume is needed, not pressure with carbs. Ill be going 'dead head' too. The aeromotive stuff is awesome.... I got the aeroquip fittings in black/silver too, which was a major pain to find, but pierce manifolds sells em along with a direct bolt on kit for triple webers. Kinda pricey tho for the kit. So the fusable links needs to be kept? Every picture I have seen of an engine bay with the triple webers, there is no fusable links assembly anywhere I can see. Are you absolutely sure its necessary?? I guess I will find out soon enough Friday when I can work on everything again. Headers came in yesterday, so I had to mock it up. I got side tracked of needing to take pictures of the linkage.... ooo shiny!
  12. So asking around at some Z shops, seems this is easier than I thought. Pull cable from ECU, pull ECU out, and then cable harness from ECU comes out. Whatever is attached to the cable harness can go. Piece of cake....
  13. Hmm... pull up... interesting didnt think of that... im not sure it would work thinking about it now as the idle screw wouldnt work with it being setup that way. I can email the guy I purchased them from and ask him if they are supposed to push down or pull up... Im thinking it pushes down tho...
  14. So Im about ready to drop this new setup into the car this coming turkey weekend... But I have a few other questions. Looking at other peoples engine bay pix, there is no "fusable link" area. Before I start cutting the harness (cringe), is the fusable links no longer necessary? I plan on hacking off the coil side cables since its an XDI system, as well as EFI cable off the main cable as well. I did some searching, but really couldnt find anything related to what's no longer needed on the existing efi harness that can be cut off when going back to a carb setup. Also the water temperature housing block has a bunch of sensors on it that I dont think are needed anymore as well that dont need to be hooked back up? Anyone have some references or have gone through this process to know? Thanks in advance!
  15. Hmm I dont think so but I'll look at them again later this week when Im back at the shop. If I flip them around, I wont be able to adjust the idle. I also think the geometry would be wrong by it wanting to push in the wrong direction? There is a bump stop that rests right under the idle screw. Kind of difficult to see in this picture, but if you look closely you will see it.. I also think the instructions showed this installed in this position as well, but Ill definately be inspecting it more next week when everything gets bolted on and we get to start the beast up!
×
×
  • Create New...