Chicago_Customz

Our shop here in Chicago has done probably 15+ T56 upgrades in the past 5 years. We tried several methods, including switches and such and recently one of our customers asked us to do that spring modification trick. Well, it didn't go well and he was really upset after it damaged the trans. Our transmisisons come from D&D Transmission and they said the damage was due to forcing the stick into Reverse. Here are the options and things we have tried in the past.....I welcome your feedback if you don't agree with me....I'm always looking for ideas.. 1) Just force it into gear - this damages the trans. We didn't know this until recently, but this is the worst idea. 2) A simple switch you push to get into gear. Works great but a little too caveman for our nice tricked out mods....our customers want something professional. But a viable option. 3) Wire to brake lights - I don't recommend this. Also if you're slowing down while downshifting, this doesn't protect your trans. Also, it's dangerous...one customer's wiring melted and the whole brake circuit went out. Also, there is said to be a delay in teh brake lights coming on if you tap the circuit; we don't want taht liability in our shop, so we don't do this anymore. Brake circuit is way too important to even touch it. I'd do #2 before I did that. 4) Modify the spring by removing some coils. This is not a good solution since you have to get it just right and if you have enough resistance to make it hard to get in Reverse, you are going to damage the internals, per D&D Transmission (they tear all sorts of them apart for rebuilds so they know their stuff). 5) Acutac made a timer box for this, but it is $60 and you still have to press a button - no benefit in my opinion over #2 above. 6) The nicest option we found was from a company called Samoco Industries Samoco Industries They make a "black box", a sort of electronic controller system. It does the work of the original computer and keeps the reverse lockout solenoid de-energized when you are going faster than something like 10mph or so. Taps the VSS sensor to know how fast you're going. We've put in at least 5 or 6 of these systems and they are really the best/nicest solution if the customer doesn't go cheap. Most of our customers want this hands free type of option since they don't like button idea and most don't want you to mess with their springs or brakes. I think if you're flat broke, #2 is the winner; if you have a few bucks to do it nicer, #5 is the best one. Any other ideas out there?

First, I love the techno toy products....used to put them on my old Supras we raced. Vibration at those speeds is almost 100% drivetrain related.... Here are a few ideas based on my experiences....in order or probability... 1) Driveshaft ...may be out of balance or bent slightly. I've had this one hit me hard and it often kicks in at 35 to 40 mph. You can put a dial indicator on the driveshaft and turn it to check. 2) Improper U Joint alignment can cause a nasty vibration...it is caused by the driveshaft not wanting to turn properly and it prefers a certain orientation vs. another...sort of like turning something that you have to force and then it sort of cams/pops over center and then stays there. Some Ujoints are hard to line up - or you might have dropped a needle bearing on the floor? 3)Rear Drum that has a large chunk or fins broken off can cause serious imbalance / vibration. 4) Bent yoke or pinion is another possibility - this one is hard to track down - if you are using new parts not super likely. One check we always do is if you can feel the vibration in the stickshift, check the front U joints first. If not, then do the rear ones first. I suspect #1 or #2 I hope this helps maybe a little. Best of luck! I hate trying to chase the demons out of cars like this.