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HybridZ

Leon

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Everything posted by Leon

  1. Choosing your brakes, as with many mechanical systems in the car, is part packaging and part math. You can only exert so much force on the pedal and have so much pedal travel available, these are the bookends of your master cylinder size. On the wheel end, as rotor diameter increases, piston size and/or pedal force/g decreases but wheel diameter requirement increases. Rotor thickness depends on how much thermal mass you need for the intended duty cycle of your system, cooling can help here. As for the dynamics, brake balance depends on CoG, wheelbase, and available grip and is determined by effective piston area, effective rotor radius, and pad friction. Dual masters or a proportioning valve is typically used to adjust, although prop valves can make more efficient use of the brakes (less wasted area under the ideal brake distro curve). That's the high level, the rest is in the details.
  2. You're next door to Rebello, might as well take advantage of your resources! Suggest starting with an L28 if you haven't already.
  3. "h beams"... One of my favorite interview questions/engineering thought exercises is, "why is it that all connecting rods in modern engines have I-beam cross sections"? As to the topic at hand, I'll be honest and say that this reads like a list of parts that sound "cool" without any further thought behind it. If that's what you want, go for it. But you asked for suggestions on anything you have "wrong". I advise to keep it simple and actually build it rather than slowly melting in a sea of self-created and pointless complexity, eventually resulting in abandonment of the project. Start small.
  4. Hell yes! What did it put down on Rebello's dyno?
  5. William is pricey and will take a while but his work is fantastic. Rob at ZCG sends a lot of his cars through William's.
  6. Congrats Takashi, the Z is finally driving! Drove mine to work last Thursday and Friday. Looking forward to a drive sometime.
  7. Thanks Takashi, I look forward to it!
  8. I have a buddy running 235/50-15 Toyo R888R's on a 15x10. There's a bit of stretch but not a silly amount. The Achilles ATR-K come in a 245/45-15. Both tires are R-compounds, essentially semi-slicks.
  9. I've been driving the Z sparingly due to work and family but I dusted it off this week while I had a couple days off and actually put a wrench on it. I replaced a frozen fan clutch. Yay! I've also been having an issue ever since I swapped out the struts, the rear brakes lock up after parking the car. I transferred the brakes over to the new struts so something happened in that transition. Turns out just the right rear parking brake adjuster keeps adjusting, every time I put the handbrake on. I can yank on the handle multiple times and it just keeps on ratcheting until the brake locks up. I haven't have time to diagnose yet so I've disconnected the right rear clevis for now. Still plenty of things to do but I'll whittle away as time allows. Happy New Year everyone!
  10. If I'm remembering correctly, there was a migration quite a few years back where inactive accounts were erased, or something to that effect. @SuperDan can elaborate, I'm sure. Welcome back to the game.
  11. I'm not familiar with the EFI stuff but where is the PCV valve located on that manifold? Are there any other possible oil paths into the intake that you haven't explored, outside of the stem seal and piston rings?
  12. Sounds like a rich condition more than oil fouling. Can you run the injectors and rail off of the manifold and compare the spray patterns? Vacuum does seem pretty low unless it's a radical cam. I get about 17-18 inHg at idle with a .540"/270° cam. It's all about the overlap and IVC point so you can also have poor vacuum if the cam is too far retarded. Doesn't necessarily explain a fouled plug but worth looking into.
  13. Looking forward to hearing this run!
  14. Will send PM when my donation status changes. You should've received my cell number if you look in your email notifications.
  15. Well looking forward to finding out! Perhaps an Ecotec? I'll PM you my number.
  16. Nice, glad you made it! Trekkor and crew always run a great event. A few of my coworkers went (the silver S2000 in the background of your photo and the other in a Model 3). I'll be running at Sonoma Drift for the first time this coming Wednesday, in case you or @stupid_fast plan to be there. Gonna guess that radiator is from an LSx vehicle.
  17. I prefer more rubber but overall I dig the build!
  18. I'm not saying that it wouldn't work, just that it's not good practice. I understand that your case is a particular one being it's a race car. The problem is that no matter how good your MAP signal is, not having a manifold reference for the FPR means that your VE table will be delivering differing amounts of fuel even if the VE table values are equal. Not having the reference makes tuning more difficult and reduces your resolution in high-vacuum areas of the VE table. Of course it can be done, as you have. I just disagree with your premise that "most EFI installs want constant pressure". Most EFI installs definitely have MAP-referenced FPRs for the reasons above, especially for street-driven cars as is the case for the OP. I'm including OEMs here as well, doesn't matter whether they're ITB or not.
  19. What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation.
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