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Grog

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Grog last won the day on January 13 2012

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About Grog

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  1. measured as the distance the slave piston pushes the clutch fork. My voices also suggest that your clutch may need replacing if you are getting the proper travel at the slave. I use a bone stock clutch and slave on my T5, but use a Wilwood 7/8 MC. I get 7/8" travel at the slave, and zero issues.
  2. What clutch/pressure plate are you using? If its stock, you should get ~7/8" of travel at the fork. I would also check the clutch pedal linkage in the cabin. If all of that is good, it just may be the throw out bearing.
  3. Improving the wiper motor

    this worked for me too, and with the stock intermittent relay. Thanks for working out the kinks to this modification!
  4. 240z Tank Vent as Return

    If you don't want to smell fuel in your garage all the time, keep the evap canister. Its designed to trap fuel vapors during natural expansion, and pulls that vapor into the engine when running. I get it that they are cosmetically unpleasant but they do serve a good purpose.
  5. Hond wiper motor upgrade

    Post some pictures so we can see.
  6. I obviously respond way too late. Purchased the radiator new off of FleaBay, the fan through Rock Auto, and the radiator mount from one of the members here. I do have a stock radiator from a 76 Grand Prix that I had in it previously, but it won't fit in the JTR mounts; you would have to make a radiator mount for it. I only opted for the Camaro radiator just to save a little weight, but could easily switch back to the Pontiac radiator.
  7. MD - Gauges, AFM, Door Panels

    I'll take those gauges. PM sent.
  8. I have seen a number of set ups to wire the Volvo fan relay for use with an aftermarket cooling fan. Not being a big fan of many of those wiring modifications or the prices to set up something more technical, I offer a cheap, easy and safer way to do this. And it works. I have this set up to use the low speed fan signal to a Thunderbird fan, since the climate here doesn't need more than that. You will need: One Volvo fan relay, one SPST relay, and one in line fuse (50-70A). This set up permits you to wire the Volvo fan relay (+) supply line directly to the battery via an in-line fuse (50-70A). How this works is by using the ground signal between the Volvo fan relay and the fan temperature sensor. The SPST relay is installed to energize when it senses a 12V(+) signal that you can hook up to an ignition on terminal (low amp fuse), which closes the contact between the temp sender and the fan relay. Once the engine hits a temp to close the contact in the sender, it trips the Volvo relay to power the fan. Turn off the ignition and it shuts off completely and safely. No hot wires, no toggle switches, expensive solutions or the like. If you need the high speed signal to work, just duplicate using another relay for that signal. Follow the diagram and enjoy.
  9. If you still have the lower control arms, I'll take those along with the clam shell, column ignition and key assembly and the wiper arms.
  10. That's good to know. Thanks for sharing that info!
  11. Its from a 94-97 T-Bird. I picked this one up for less than 70.00 to my door. JTR still makes the radiator bracket but its out of aluminum now. Its possible they had suspended production at some point to switch materials.
  12. Purely FYI. I largely followed the JTR book on cooling by purchasing the Mid 80s Camaro radiator and by using the JTR radiator cradle. I have one of the older galvanized steel cradles so it may look a bit different that the newer ones made from aluminum. Be careful about getting the correct radiator; the JTR recommended radiator is more expensive that the larger one of the same vintage. I picked mine up off of fleabay for ~$110.00. The only thing about using the Camaro radiator is that its next to impossible to find the rubber isolators. I ended up using a set of urethane isolators (under $18.00 from anywhere), cutting them to fit and using a silicone adhesive. Works perfectly. I made very simple mounting tabs for the fan using some 1/8" angle iron. I drilled and tapped them to mount to the cradle, but you can use a method that works well for you. WRT the fan, I really like this one since it completely covers the radiator like it was meant to. You will need to cut of a few of the mounting brackets to get it to fit. I do recommend reinforcing the top of the JTR cradle using a thicker piece of aluminum sheet for backing. This radiator and fan combo is a bit heavier and there is some flex in it that I didn't like. Simple hand tools work and I riveted them on to the cradle.
  13. Alternative fuel tanks

    I wanted to run dual exhaust and followed Cheesepocket's fabrication (many thanks Cheese!) with some modifications. I made a cradle for the gas tank and then welded it up under the car. If I had to do it again, I would purchase the universal tank with the internal fuel pump. But since I had the fuel pump and filter already, it was easy enough to assemble. If you happen to go this route, you may want to look at your filer neck options. I ended up using the fuel neck from a 77-78 since it is much smaller that the 3" neck on earlier models, and it als means you need to modify the mounting location in the filer neck door. And it opened up my options to use common size grommets to make the plate used to seal up around the underside of the filler neck. I also fabbed up a different filer neck on the tank since the one that came with it was at an angle that would make it a problem fueling up. I use a piece of 1/8" mild steel and a 2" diameter section of exhaust tubing for the modified neck. I want to draw your attention to picture #0130 and 0133 of the tank cradle, on the passenger side towards the rear of the car, that there is a relief cut out in the cradle. The universal tank has a hump ~3/8" of an inch that will interfere and not permit it to lay squarely in the cradle. Its an easy mod and I advise that this be done. I purchased some chassis tabs for the mounting straps; the one I used is 1/8" steel approx 3" long. Those are easy to find and fairly inexpensive. I also used the charcoal canister off of a BMW E series so I could mount it near the tank. I cant remember what year, but you should be able to find one that looks similar to what you see in the pictures. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
  14. I'm not interested in dealing with the common downsides of using headers. It's a street car and won't see the track, just sunny Sunday driving from time to time. Cast iron is generally worry free.
  15. I am using the JTR mounts, but will have to set the motor in to double check. Good point.
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