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jmmorriso

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About jmmorriso

  • Birthday 03/14/1984

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  1. Its been a long time since I was on the boards and just about as long since have had to mess with the car. Read this entire thread and maybe check out a similar thread on zdriver.com You will need quite a few 300zx parts and some time to do the swap properly, but it feels like it is worth it as far as power goes, and its definitely more fun to drive. You will need a the following parts from a 300zx na ECU, MAF, CAS wheel, MAF pigtail, CHTS, O2s, I used a complete 300zx harness to do the swap because an NA car wont have the right ECU connectors to do the swap,plus I wanted the functionality of all the stock EGR and FPR solenoids.
  2. however the ecu controls the fuel pump was a little messed up in the old ECU, the pump would just stay on when the key was on, now it cycles off when the key is on and the engine is off.
  3. I am still running the EGR to keep it legal, but dont have BCDD any more and the air regulator is plugged right now. I think I have a 1980 intake with no BCDD as it was built into the TB and now have the 60mm TB. I will be messing more soon as some other gremlins have reared their ugly heads My alarm is acting up and I have some more interior to finish up.
  4. I abandoned the leds and just did it with the wideband, I couldnt get either of them to blink.
  5. I didnt really keep track of how much a 1/2 turn changed the mixture, its possible to turn the pot so much that it stops changing the mixture at all, then you have to go way back It is possible to sub the wideband for a stock O2 and use a 0-1v output on the wideband controller for the ECU's signal, but I have never done it. I just welded another bung in.
  6. I tuned my MAF with my wideband and the car runs awesome now! No hesitation, easy starts when cold, all that! Putting the MSD 6a box and coil on my car didnt help the stumble, but getting the mixture right sure does. Im going to play with water temp (actual temp not just the sensor reading) to see if some more heat will make more power, or just throw emissions off the charts. Also, by replacing the ECU I have solved my fuel pump control problems. Before when I turned the key to ON the fuel pump would keep running, which is common for this swap even when everything appears to be wired properly. Now the pump only stays on for a few seconds and shuts off. Thought that was interesting.
  7. you dont have an idle adjuster bolted on your intake? I wonder If I could eliminate mine? I have heard of guys drilling a small hole in the throttle plate. I dont think cracking the throttle open with the 60mm TB to adjust the idle will be very consistent.
  8. The stumbling is almost all gone with the air regulator plugged. I changed the MAF and ECU, but still need to calibrate the MAF. I couldn't get the lights to blink at all with the rheostat turned all the way left. I dont think the new ECU is faulty, but since it is for an 84 and everything else is 85, maybe? I looked at the diagrams and everything seems the same. I will swap ECus back later and re install my wideband to see where it is at.
  9. I did rewire the z31 injector harness to match the l28 firing order. I havent had the time to do anything yet, but I have a new MAF and a rebuilt? ECU on its way. I never checked the part number on the ECU I have to make sure it was correct for the wiring harness I have. Im sure its the same problem you had, ground wires and a leaky air regulator+calibrating the MAF, but I have to switch a bunch of parts anyway. Also, I think I might have a leaky or sticky injector, but I will hold off on pulling the fuel rail until everything else is done.
  10. Sorry I dont have AIM. Thanks for the info on the ground wires, I will go back and clean all my ECU contacts and fiddle withmore stuff. I have to play with my electric fan temp switch and possibly replace it with a thermostat to keep my car in closed loop. I put a 195 thermostat in, but the fan kicks on at 185! I will also disconnect my fuel temp wire, I have a resistor in line to simulate about 80 degrees right now. I also need to readjust the idle mixture and maybe replace fuel pressure regulator. I swear my fuel pressure was stuck at 40lbs at idle when I started the car today, although the sending unit seems to be very sensitive to air bubbles. I had to bleed it to get it to work right when new. Also I will plug the air regulator and cold start valve(damn stock fuel rails)
  11. I ran ground wires to my MAF, intake, and ECM, then to the battery and still have the problem. Im waiting on a reman MAF and ECU right now, maybe that will do it? my fuel pressure is perfect, so unless the regulator is doing something so fast my in car pressure gauge cant see it I dont think its a fuel problem. I will put the wideband back in the car as soon as I get the datalogger cable so I can chart RPM, fuel press, car speed, and whatever else I can hook up to it, MAF voltage chts, etc.
  12. Please let me know what you find out! Ive got a z31 ecu swapped into an NA and have the same problem at low engine speeds, but once its above like 1500 its awesome. Are you running a big throttle body or anything else non stock? Also what is your water temp when fully warmed up? I think these cars are super sensitive to water temp with the swap for some reason. What have you done about the fuel temp sensor and VSS?
  13. does it have AC? maybe the idle up valve is sticky.
  14. The car wants to idle at 4500rpm? I have no idea how it could get enough air without the throttle being opened. You should get a rebuilt dist, cuz all l28e distributors wear out and then the timing jumps all over the place. make sure your throttle linkage is all good.
  15. I hope someone sees this soon, cuz Im running out of parts to change. Ive got the swap done, 85 NA ECU harnes maf etc... on an 81 na. everything is hooked up and working right, just replaced CHTS with one for a 300zx and new thermostat. timing is set ant 20 BTDC 60mm throttle body too Car stutters and jumps bad when cold coming off idle, once past 2k its awesome, no popping, no missing, perfect. its better when warm. but still does it from a standstill. for some reason it doesnt seem nearly as bad when the car is moving, but I think thats just voodoo. Also she free revs awesome with the CHTS disconnected, but doesnt have a lot of power. I re adjusted the TPS to open as soon as you breathe on the throttle, thinking the added whoosh off idle from the big TB was playing havoc, no change. Does anyone know if the boos sensor is supposed to be hooked up to the ECU on the NA cars? I cant find any reference to it, but it was on my donor car.
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