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wrcbonk

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About wrcbonk

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  • Birthday 04/22/72

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    wrcbonk

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    Roseville, CA
  1. Fuel swirl pot

    As Neverdone and Seattlejester indicated there are pros and cons to each setup. I went with an external system. It has been working without issue for 4+ years in my RB25DET/S30. There is enough room back there to mount everything and I used the existing factory wiring (hot Green wire and Black chassis ground). Both the low pressure supply clicker style pump and the Walbro EFI pump work great and don't get hot. I have never had the fuel cut in a corner (street use only). The Walbro fuel pump whines under normal operating conditions. My understanding is that the Bosch is more expensive and quieter, spend the money. I am using the small BC Broncos swirl pot which doubles as a filter. Internal pumps are industry standard because the fuel cools the pump, but you must modify your tank. No problem if you know how to modify a thin steel tank, go for it (and many people on this site have those skills), but imagining you will find someone or a shop to modify your fuel tank maybe wishful thinking. Regardless you must have a properly sized return line to keep everything in balance. I replaced the 1/4-inch line with a 5/16ths and used the upper 3/8ths vent port on the tank to return the fuel. TonyD points out you can use the fuel vent line (5/16ths or 3/8ths) as your return that runs from the from the back near the tank to the engine bay, as long as you are willing to reconfigure your fuel vapor system after that.
  2. Enjukuracing oil pan

    Ok, I will fall for this, how about pm Pat1...
  3. inner tie rod question

    Read the Amazon reviews for more information on how to install the Rare Parts inner tie rods. https://www.amazon.com/Rare-Parts-RP26575-Tie-Rod/dp/B000CK8XTS
  4. Fuel Tank & Evap Design

    I had the same concerns. I traded a few emails with Tony D and came up with the following. I kept 13 plumbed from the tank to the two way valve in the engine bay. The blow part of the valve (the end where excess fuel vapors are expelled from the tank) is plumbed to my intake. The Suck end of the valve is plumbed to a small air filter (a low pressure fuel filter I had laying around, whatever it does the job) ensuring no particulates get into my fuel system. In the past I had issues with fuel tank vapor pressure forcing fuel out my filler causing havoc. I have had no issues with the present plumbing and I live in HOT Sacramento. Bonk 2 cents
  5. Car stalls under Hard Acceleration / Boost

    Not sure what kinds of boost level you are running with the stock ECU. I have hit Fuel Cut several times running the stock ECU with too much boost pressure ~13 lbs or more). It's Nissan's way of saving the engine. I can't afford the engine management computer I want at the moment so I run modest boost pressure, ~ 9lbs, and use Royal Purple Octane Booster if I want to rev it out. The stock ECU timing table is set for 97 octane, it pulls timing and dumps fuel when the knocks start coming from fuel starvation or inadequate octane. my 2 cents
  6. ~73 Turbo L28 to N/A RB25 240z Project~

    KnuckleDuster, You find the best stuff, that angled shifter would save me a lot of headache, modify my stock unit. Didn't see it in the Nismo shop online. Do you have a part number? Thanks Bonk
  7. Help with rb20det swap into 76 280z

    If your engine comes with a harness in good shape making the connections is straight forward. It will save you a big chunk of change. Remember you are only talking about the engine harness, not the whole car. You are mainly just giving the harness power and ground for ignition and fuel. The key is to go one circuit at a time and use quality electrical supplies (solder, heat shrink, good wire, good relays (Bosch)). The only reason I bought a harness from WS was because the harness that came with the engine was trashed and I made it worse being a [email protected] 2 cents
  8. Swami's Orange 260z

    Came back around to this thread after losing touch. The sterileness of your engine bay is amazing, especially the electrical. Look forward to more updates. Bill
  9. ~73 Turbo L28 to N/A RB25 240z Project~

    I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it? Thanks
  10. My custom fuel setup

    That SS strap is very nice, cool fuel delivery setup.
  11. RB CAS issues with Haltech (how to bench test?)

    This is of interest to me because I was planning to buy the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU 55001 for my Series 1 R33. Is the 550001 the model you have? Do you have the stock ecu? You could try to use the stock computer to get the car running. I was able to start my engine first crank using the stock ECU (that is after we fixed all the fuel leaks that started as soon as I charged the pump). Have you emailed Haltech yet? I emailed them in the past and It took a few days, but they got back to me with good information. Will be watching your progress. Bill
  12. EMS or Coils?

    Thanks guys, I will look into testing my coolant temp sensor. Doing some other research I found that another benefit of EMS is adjustment of spark dwell, which can be optimized for the LS coils.
  13. EMS or Coils?

    After reading the thread Coil Suggestions I have some follow up questions for the RB group, but didn’t want to hijack Blob1620’s thread. I have a very stock Series 1 rb25det swap in my s30: stock ecu, STOCK COILS, throttle body, no downpipe, 2.5-inch exhaust, freddy plenum, the intercooler is probably 50% bigger than stock, stock fuel rail, injectors, and FPR. I am currently running the boost at the stock max of 7-8 psi through a manual controller and I have a wideband. Naturally, my engine stubbles from @4500 to 6000 where AFRs plummet to 10 and the engine runs roughly. Common wisdom (Hybridz and SAU) states the ecu is retarding timing and adding fuel to preserve the engine from knock as US fuel is lower in octane. This is not a new story to the group. There are numerous changes that can be made to add power and I intend to start making those changes, but my first priority is to smooth out my rev band. I am more interested in smooth running than power at the moment. My question is this. Should my first step be to obtain a programmable ems allowing me to tune for US fuels or is replacing the coils more important? Put another way, is the rough running more a function of poor ignition performance or the fact that the fuel and timing maps are locked and meant for higher octane fuel? Thanks Bill
  14. Golden RB 240z

    Cool project, a true hybrid, can't wait for more updates and eventual tuning.
  15. volt/fuel gauge in 240z

    As Mtnickel said check the level sender connections at the tank, they are poorly designed connectors and notorious for slipping off. Make sure the ends are free of grit with contact cleaner.
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