palmer765s

ok I figured some one on here has ran into this before and knows how to fix it (its bugging the crap out of me) my driver side door after I shut it it still wiggles a bit (about a 1/8-1/4 of an inch) and is super annoying how do I get it to shut and not have play ? is there a little mod out there to fix it or a bushing or piece of rubber or some thing lol

well guys I just went up to my buddies at a local shop and bullshitted around for a bit and finaly decided im going Mega Squirt just to completely ditch this crappy EFI system and have things to go smoothly and also I plan on going turbo in the future so it makes more sense to me. have been throwing around this decision in my head for a while now and all this just secured it and the deal im getting to have it made and installed (MS1 build your own board) I cant pass it up

OK I so I did a test of it and it and I disconnected the hose to the air reg (opposite side of the sensor sensor plug) and at idle with the line off without being plugged it ran better ( smoother less rich ect.) But once I put my thumb over the reg it ran how it did before and there was suction I tried looking inside of it but all I saw was black even with a flashlight

The air regulator is located on top of the intake manifold and has one line that comes out of a nipple on the throttle body and runs to the air regulator and from there runs back into the throttle body

It doesn't have any fittings the original on has one nipple on it for the breather on the valve cover that's it

I fixed the air boot by using the stock one that goes from the AFM to the air cleaner and its a good seal and I tested it when it was cold

OK so as one of the tests on the FSM is while the car is running get players and clamp the vac hose going to and from the air regulator and pinch it closed if idle goes down and stumbles then its working. I did it and nothing happened what so ever so could this be the reason of all my problems ? Well at least some of them ? Could the air regulator actually cause it to run the way it is ?

some resistance but mainly continuity I did find a link from google back to here explaining how to adjust the TPS sensor if you think its jumping from idle to WOT im going to try and get it off pop it open and see how close the pins are to eachother and see if moving them out a little bit helps or not if now im just going to try throwing a new TPS and Air Regulator at it and hope it fixes it

Well I already ran through the entire pin out tests and the only 3 things that didn't check out was test #3 for Air regulator circuit, test #1 air regulator and fuel pump, test #1 fuel pump relay circuit every thing else came back perfect so is it possible that the air regulator could be causing my problems ? Oh and I did mess with the tps sensor (running unplugged and plugged) and if seems to respond better at idle and throttle with it unplugged. Could this mean its bad even if the pinout tests were fine ? Twisted the a/f screw on the AFM out a lot (was about a 1/4 inch in and now the richness have gone down alot but its still smoking pretty decently. Must say thank you all for getting me thus far

alright so im guessing that taking the screw out would make it lean and in would richen it ? or do I have it backwards ?

Fornafm adjustment you mean the big flat head screw on the bottom side of it ? Then years I messed with it a bit. The fpr is correct and hose seems to be fine I'm going to have to check the tips hopefully that is all it is

OK so now that I got a good seal from the AFM to the throttle body I have to use the throttle to start and it doesn't run without me revving it and its insainly rich (huge clouds of smoke) the AFM is brand new guy I'm wondering if the tps could be causing this ?

In did replace the filter too forgot to mention that but I was messing with the flap and it does actualy rev the motor but I don't have the right kind of boot on it to have a good seal to the throttle body so I'm thinking that's my problem going to see if I can't get a good seal from some advance auto intake stuff and hopefully get my car going

OK so I just threw on of the correct ECU's in and it idles fine but it still doesn't respond to any type of throttle (dies at any touch of the throttle and come back once I let go

Well my tach doesn't work so just from hearing it (open header) best guess is little higher then idle,just above 1k then starts picking up rpms and keeps rising till I kill it I think about the farthest its gone is about 4.5-5k before I shut it down