Jump to content
HybridZ

Speedtripper

Members
  • Content count

    39
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Speedtripper

  • Rank
    Moving Up
  • Birthday 03/02/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Africa
  • Interests
    Pulling things apart. Sometimes putting things back together.
  1. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Update... It appears that I have been a really bad friend! My mate sold his farm a couple of years back and I just found out. He is over 700mls away so I can be excused for that. I spoke to the new owner, and all surplus "junk" was removed when they bought. They do have a Nissan patrol with a LD28 for sale, but cannot seriously consider that option to just part out a block and a crank. Apparently, the V57 was not an official import, but a number of these motors were brought in for conversions in Land Rovers. The net is littered with people talking about this conversion, but the posts are generally 5+ years old. I will post a couple of ads on some of the local 4x4 forums to see if I get any bites. @WhitleyTune, yes the idea is to drill out the head to accommodate the larger bolts. Ran it by an engineering shop and they weren't too concerned.
  2. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    @inline6... That block is definitely different. Mine has the external ribbing on both sides.
  3. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Thanks for the upload lesson. I have attached a picture to test. If it doesn't appear... I'm still retarded. Ok, it appears that it has worked. The caption for this picture, in case anyone hasn't read the kak previously is this. Testing the rod clearance in my 89mm x 92mm stroke LD28 block. Seriously considering stretching it to 93mm stroke. Would require further trimming of the piston crown. 94mm is totally possible but another piston with a compression height of around 31mm would be required. To take 3mm off the top of a KA24 would be pushing it. a 2.5mm trim and a 2mm gasket would get it there too. That will give a genuine 3.5l (3508.72cc) Bear in mind this is with the std 89mm piston. 89.5mm will bump to 3588cc and for those with nerves of steel (and deep pockets) a 90mm cut will deliver 3588cc.
  4. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    It appears that my ability to upload pictures is severely retarded! I have uploaded a batch in my gallery section. If someone can give me a clue how to load a picture into this section it would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Speedtripper

    92mm Stroker

    Various bits of my 3.4 stroker build. Slowly slowly... catchy monkey.
  6. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Howzit guys. I know this has been a while... but I warn you that this is not a mad panic, so progress will be slow as I start to tear down my car for a full rebuild. (Another story for another day). I am going to attempt to upload some pictures to show where I am so far on this build. Block has been bored to 89mm. I could have gone to 89.5 safely, but decided some insurance was a better idea. The crank was in the process of being machined, when the machinist was hit with bad health and nothing happened for a while. While this was happening I decided to push the envelope a little further and explore a 92mm stroke over the planned 90mm stroke. As this was going to put me in "unknown" territory and as I have already been shot down for asking "sensitive" questions, I decided against it and throw a simple pattern together to test possible/probable interference issues in the block. (LD28 block for those who have forgotten). The results were better than expected. Not only was the pattern extremely accurate (luck more than anything) but there is zero clearance issues. It gets close in places. I would guess in the region of 1mm, but that is easily sorted out. The piston (KA24) will be trimmed to the required height depending on the head gasket. Probably in the region of 1mm which will remove the .7mm dish. I measured at TDC and got a positive reading of 1.89mm. The reading at BDC was 90.21. This gives a final stroke of 92.1mm. (I was stoked with the accuracy... all things considered). Now to get the crank completed..... I will keep posting updates. I must add that the point of this build is to see what is possible with a "modest" budget. It is not a substitute for a purpose built race motor (in a crate) from one of the big names.
  7. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Ok, no worries. I have no other block to compare it to, so can only call it as it is. As we never got the Maxima diesel, is it possible that it comes from an older model of something else? Info on the LD28 is not conclusive. I was led to believe that we got the diesel in some older model Patrols. Either way.... I will forge on.
  8. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Wow! I wonder if there are different versions - based on year? The engine number on mine is: LD28 180644 how does that compare to yours?
  9. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    My apologies to all. Having checked a pm which I received some years back, the convo I had was with Peter at PMC: "we off set grind the crank (RB30) to 89mm stroke thats why we run the 48mm pin , and there fine , have run them in 700hp turbo rbs for the last 5 years " and not LCR. I'm getting old and all Aussies look the same to me. ; ) Lurcher you are correct - that is an entirely different set up. And a price tag in a different time zone I might suggest. My build is for those who can't afford that spec and/or like to do as much of the prep themselves. I would like to put a question out there regarding a camshaft. As this is going to be as street car, and where I live is pretty hilly I require something which will give good performance but not require riding the clutch all the time. Any suggestions? I'm hoping for something in the 300hp range. But street-able. My thinking is that with the extra cc I can tone the cam down. Possibly around the 290 degree mark? I will build my head around that - valves sizes and CR. Anyone with similar specs, that can report back? I do have a set of 45mm ITBs on my car so that should be sufficient. Pictures of which are in my gallery. You will see the LD28 on the stand too. I will update with some more pictures soon. My car is about is about to undergo a complete tear down, so this engine will not be running for a while. I will however post as stuff happens. If anyone would like any specific info on the build, just let me know and I will be happy to reply. Please remember that this is a low-budget build, using as many off the shelf parts as possible. Thanks for any input, in advance.
  10. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    Thanks Tony. I am aware of that. They use a modified RB30 crank which involves the widening of all journals, and machining to snout and flywheel flange. Honda rods are used and special pistons with a low comp height to make the rod ratio acceptable. I don't live in Australia so having someone build one for me is not an option and besides that, where is the fun? This is a slightly different approach, being based on the LD28 block. I have read plenty of thumb suck info regarding this block, probably because of the 'small' pistons it houses. There is a lot of presumption regarding wall thickness etc. I have also read suggestions about using liners. It is not necessary. I have the block sitting in the garage, machined to 89mm. The wall thickness is not less than 3mm at any point based on 12 measurements in each bore. I thought about going 89.5mm but decided that another rebore in my pocket was a safer bet. My approach is to use as many "off the shelf" parts as possible. The only specialized work is the welding and offset grinding to the crank. I agree with a previous post of yours where you stated that a lot welded cranks if done correctly see years of service. The point is to find someone who specializes in crankshaft repairs, and not a run of the mill shop - pardon the pun. Finding LD28 blocks in South Africa is not an issue. A contact has a fleet of Patrols which have been converted from petrol to diesel, and as they run out of rebores they become scrap. There may be people in other countries which also had the diesel motor, so this build might be of interest to them. I appreciate that this is a very old thread, but if anyone is interested, as I said, I will update the information.
  11. Speedtripper

    3.4L L28 stroker

    ...and what happened??? Not sure if this topic is no longer the flavor of the decade, but I am in the process of a very similar build with a LD28 block. Block has been bored to 89mm. Min wall thickness of 3mm. Interesting to see the wall thicknesses are in the 3mm - 5mm range. So there is some shift in the core. I have decided not to use the LD28 crank as it would also require welding, so have opted to use a L28 which is being welded and stroked. Currently set at 90mm. Using the forged 4g63 rod (149.86mm) with the 48mm big end. Small end has been rebushed to 21mm. Piston is a standard 89mm KA24E. Piston requires a 1.4mm skim to remove the slight dish. This gets it to a 0.01 positive deck height for use with a 1mm gasket. Interesting to note that despite the increased displacement - 2.8 to 3.35 there is a weight saving of 257g per cylinder over the standard L28 piston and rod. Standard is 1355.6g. New rod/piston combo is 1098.6g If anyone is interested in this build, let me know, and I will post as things happen.
  12. Speedtripper

    Conrods for 3.3/3.4 Stroker Motors

    (260DET): I'm afraid you are totally wrong. I didn't complain. As I stated, I simply opened the discussion up to others participating on this forum. (I had the decency to inform the person that I sent the PM to that I would do so). I then waited for a response. When it was not forthcoming, I simply opened the topic to others for comment. Perhaps someone else has tried this with success (or failure). Perhaps this kind of information could be helpful to others contemplating going this route. This forum is littered with accounts of failures (stuff that doesn't work). This is valuable information, and could save a fellow "z enthusiast" a lot of time, money and pain. The topics on this forum all share a common thread. Information... people looking for stuff or information. It is the very reason it exists in the first place. Without it, it would be called "Facebook". Lastly, I apologise unreservedly if my question has caused anyone harm or discomfort in any way. If sacred cows have been challenged in a manner unbefitting of a "newbie", then I bow my head in shame. This was not my intention.
  13. Speedtripper

    Conrods for 3.3/3.4 Stroker Motors

    Leon: No one is bad-mouthing anyone. I have simply responded in the same manner that was afforded to me. You have made it clear from the get-go that you have nothing constructive to offer. Your initial comment was pointless and the follow up even less so. You probably felt the need to add your two cents after 260DET dispensed his pearl of wisdom. I fail to see how asking if the modifying a component beyond it's natural "serviceable specification" is tactless? Perhaps you could explain that? Does this make the the question "Is boring out beyond 90mm a good idea" also "tactless". I have seen this question asked a number of times. Is this one shot down in flames? No! Is this because the average-joe knows the answer to this and it affords them the opportunity to comment and appear clever? Probably! However, try ask a hard question and all you get is a ...."off to the shed". This entire forum is littered with people asking questions about pushing the envelope. That's what makes it a "forum". It would be pretty boring (that must mean "tactful" to you) if no-one discussed anything outside mainstream thinking. Heaven forbid you question any of this "free information" (Rules according to 260DET perhaps). When someone says "I made 450 whp" why can't one ask to see the printout? Is this perceived to be calling the person a liar, or simply showing an interest in what they have achieved? (Probably calling them a liar in this case I suspect). The best posts I have read here, and the one's that have encouraged out-of-the-box thinking. The banta between Tony D and various people (probably everyone) has kept this forum alive. The only reason I kept reading is because hidden in the depths of his backhanded compliments there was good factual understanding. And nice humour, which I appreciate. When someone asks a really dumb question, one can excuse the odd "dumb reply". If I ever ask one, I will take it on the chin. I have no problem with that. I do have a problem with a dumb reply to an intelligent question. I feel I have explained myself enough now, (****, I'm tired) ...so, if there is a previous post covering this topic that answers my question, please point me to it, and I will happily leave you to your shed. However, if there is anyone here that might have anything to a contribute I look forward to reading it. (Even if it's just a good joke). I will appreciate it.
  14. Speedtripper

    Conrods for 3.3/3.4 Stroker Motors

    To Tony D. "There always is the opportunity to pay money and have something built, then tear it apart and reverse engineer it on your own as well". Is that your standard reply to every question that is posted on this forum? Hang on.... I think I know the answer to that!
  15. Speedtripper

    Conrods for 3.3/3.4 Stroker Motors

    Wow! I wasn't expecting that. (It seemed like a pretty good question to me). So this is the way this forum works. NEVER question (or challenge) any free advice. It is free and therefore always right!! Firstly, there is a lot of information being dispensed here as "gospel". Don't ever challenge the information! (according to 260DET). I didn't realise that this forum was only open to people peddling their wares. I was mistaken. I thought it was about like minded people trying to "help" one another. If you don't want to share information, why participate? Someone please answer that for me. I thought the whole point of a forum is to explore this stuff, and not just take the info as a given. If all the information found here was taken as gospel, then there would be many a garage filled with boat-anchors. To Tony D. I'm sorry to say that you have misread the question. I know all about offset grinding. That is basic stuff. You can weld and offset grind a crank to give 5 yards of stroke if you had the time and or the inclination. My question remains: Would it be deemed safe (for a hot street / race motor) to reduce the big end journal by 5mm.) This question does not require the reverse engineering of anything. Someone has stated the figures as fact. (read my original post). I am simply questioning this information. If you don't know the answer, then simply refrain from replying. It adds nothing to the debate. Let's get this straight. The person said that a RB30 crank was used. (53mm journal... this is standard and the specs are available to anyone who is prepared to look it up). Then they used Honda B18 rods (48mm bore). Now logic dictates that for this rod to work, a 5mm under cut is required to the crank. (Offset has nothing to do with this). Now according to 260DET... I must not question whether a 5mm cut is safe????? WTF. Imagine if I had posted a topic which just said: "Is a 5mm undercut to a RB30 crank safe?"... it may not have raised as many eyebrows. And hopefully someone might have a been down this route and have something intelligent to say. So. Is a 5mm under cut safe? It looks like this may be the first challenging question in some (on this forum). Sorry... next time I will ask about spark plugs and oil filters.
×