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Speedtripper

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About Speedtripper

  • Birthday 03/02/1963

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Africa
  • Interests
    Pulling things apart. Sometimes putting things back together.

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  1. Update... It appears that I have been a really bad friend! My mate sold his farm a couple of years back and I just found out. He is over 700mls away so I can be excused for that. I spoke to the new owner, and all surplus "junk" was removed when they bought. They do have a Nissan patrol with a LD28 for sale, but cannot seriously consider that option to just part out a block and a crank. Apparently, the V57 was not an official import, but a number of these motors were brought in for conversions in Land Rovers. The net is littered with people talking about this conversion, but the posts are generally 5+ years old. I will post a couple of ads on some of the local 4x4 forums to see if I get any bites. @WhitleyTune, yes the idea is to drill out the head to accommodate the larger bolts. Ran it by an engineering shop and they weren't too concerned.
  2. @inline6... That block is definitely different. Mine has the external ribbing on both sides.
  3. Thanks for the upload lesson. I have attached a picture to test. If it doesn't appear... I'm still retarded. Ok, it appears that it has worked. The caption for this picture, in case anyone hasn't read the kak previously is this. Testing the rod clearance in my 89mm x 92mm stroke LD28 block. Seriously considering stretching it to 93mm stroke. Would require further trimming of the piston crown. 94mm is totally possible but another piston with a compression height of around 31mm would be required. To take 3mm off the top of a KA24 would be pushing it. a 2.5mm trim and a 2mm gasket would get it there too. That will give a genuine 3.5l (3508.72cc) Bear in mind this is with the std 89mm piston. 89.5mm will bump to 3588cc and for those with nerves of steel (and deep pockets) a 90mm cut will deliver 3588cc.
  4. It appears that my ability to upload pictures is severely retarded! I have uploaded a batch in my gallery section. If someone can give me a clue how to load a picture into this section it would be greatly appreciated!
  5. Speedtripper

    92mm Stroker

    Various bits of my 3.4 stroker build. Slowly slowly... catchy monkey.
  6. Howzit guys. I know this has been a while... but I warn you that this is not a mad panic, so progress will be slow as I start to tear down my car for a full rebuild. (Another story for another day). I am going to attempt to upload some pictures to show where I am so far on this build. Block has been bored to 89mm. I could have gone to 89.5 safely, but decided some insurance was a better idea. The crank was in the process of being machined, when the machinist was hit with bad health and nothing happened for a while. While this was happening I decided to push the envelope a little further and explore a 92mm stroke over the planned 90mm stroke. As this was going to put me in "unknown" territory and as I have already been shot down for asking "sensitive" questions, I decided against it and throw a simple pattern together to test possible/probable interference issues in the block. (LD28 block for those who have forgotten). The results were better than expected. Not only was the pattern extremely accurate (luck more than anything) but there is zero clearance issues. It gets close in places. I would guess in the region of 1mm, but that is easily sorted out. The piston (KA24) will be trimmed to the required height depending on the head gasket. Probably in the region of 1mm which will remove the .7mm dish. I measured at TDC and got a positive reading of 1.89mm. The reading at BDC was 90.21. This gives a final stroke of 92.1mm. (I was stoked with the accuracy... all things considered). Now to get the crank completed..... I will keep posting updates. I must add that the point of this build is to see what is possible with a "modest" budget. It is not a substitute for a purpose built race motor (in a crate) from one of the big names.
  7. Ok, no worries. I have no other block to compare it to, so can only call it as it is. As we never got the Maxima diesel, is it possible that it comes from an older model of something else? Info on the LD28 is not conclusive. I was led to believe that we got the diesel in some older model Patrols. Either way.... I will forge on.
  8. Wow! I wonder if there are different versions - based on year? The engine number on mine is: LD28 180644 how does that compare to yours?
  9. My apologies to all. Having checked a pm which I received some years back, the convo I had was with Peter at PMC: "we off set grind the crank (RB30) to 89mm stroke thats why we run the 48mm pin , and there fine , have run them in 700hp turbo rbs for the last 5 years " and not LCR. I'm getting old and all Aussies look the same to me. ; ) Lurcher you are correct - that is an entirely different set up. And a price tag in a different time zone I might suggest. My build is for those who can't afford that spec and/or like to do as much of the prep themselves. I would like to put a question out there regarding a camshaft. As this is going to be as street car, and where I live is pretty hilly I require something which will give good performance but not require riding the clutch all the time. Any suggestions? I'm hoping for something in the 300hp range. But street-able. My thinking is that with the extra cc I can tone the cam down. Possibly around the 290 degree mark? I will build my head around that - valves sizes and CR. Anyone with similar specs, that can report back? I do have a set of 45mm ITBs on my car so that should be sufficient. Pictures of which are in my gallery. You will see the LD28 on the stand too. I will update with some more pictures soon. My car is about is about to undergo a complete tear down, so this engine will not be running for a while. I will however post as stuff happens. If anyone would like any specific info on the build, just let me know and I will be happy to reply. Please remember that this is a low-budget build, using as many off the shelf parts as possible. Thanks for any input, in advance.
  10. Thanks Tony. I am aware of that. They use a modified RB30 crank which involves the widening of all journals, and machining to snout and flywheel flange. Honda rods are used and special pistons with a low comp height to make the rod ratio acceptable. I don't live in Australia so having someone build one for me is not an option and besides that, where is the fun? This is a slightly different approach, being based on the LD28 block. I have read plenty of thumb suck info regarding this block, probably because of the 'small' pistons it houses. There is a lot of presumption regarding wall thickness etc. I have also read suggestions about using liners. It is not necessary. I have the block sitting in the garage, machined to 89mm. The wall thickness is not less than 3mm at any point based on 12 measurements in each bore. I thought about going 89.5mm but decided that another rebore in my pocket was a safer bet. My approach is to use as many "off the shelf" parts as possible. The only specialized work is the welding and offset grinding to the crank. I agree with a previous post of yours where you stated that a lot welded cranks if done correctly see years of service. The point is to find someone who specializes in crankshaft repairs, and not a run of the mill shop - pardon the pun. Finding LD28 blocks in South Africa is not an issue. A contact has a fleet of Patrols which have been converted from petrol to diesel, and as they run out of rebores they become scrap. There may be people in other countries which also had the diesel motor, so this build might be of interest to them. I appreciate that this is a very old thread, but if anyone is interested, as I said, I will update the information.
  11. ...and what happened??? Not sure if this topic is no longer the flavor of the decade, but I am in the process of a very similar build with a LD28 block. Block has been bored to 89mm. Min wall thickness of 3mm. Interesting to see the wall thicknesses are in the 3mm - 5mm range. So there is some shift in the core. I have decided not to use the LD28 crank as it would also require welding, so have opted to use a L28 which is being welded and stroked. Currently set at 90mm. Using the forged 4g63 rod (149.86mm) with the 48mm big end. Small end has been rebushed to 21mm. Piston is a standard 89mm KA24E. Piston requires a 1.4mm skim to remove the slight dish. This gets it to a 0.01 positive deck height for use with a 1mm gasket. Interesting to note that despite the increased displacement - 2.8 to 3.35 there is a weight saving of 257g per cylinder over the standard L28 piston and rod. Standard is 1355.6g. New rod/piston combo is 1098.6g If anyone is interested in this build, let me know, and I will post as things happen.
  12. ...that's the power of the interweb for you.
  13. Speedtripper

    71 240Z

    My car before it gets pulled apart....
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