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Oddjob

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Oddjob last won the day on December 12 2010

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About Oddjob

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  • Birthday 03/10/1947

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    Orlando, Florida

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  1. Oddjob

    1971 240Z Project/Restro/Mod For Sale

    I should have one posted tomorrow.
  2. Oddjob

    1971 240Z Project/Restro/Mod For Sale

    In response to lukieluc and MrBlah: There must be 100 pictures of this car all over Hybrid Z. I will shoot a couple of new ones this weekend. See below: For some reason, I can't get the #$%!&^%**!! editor on the site to insert links. I have attached a PDF with the links cited above in it. Maybe that will work.... [Edit: It does work. The most detailed pictures are in the second link, the most recent pictures are in the third link.] 240Z Links.pdf
  3. This Z has been in my possession since August 2007. It was purchased from an owner near Modesto, CA, Driven to Reno, NV, where it spent nearly two years in the shop being modified and restored by a group of ex-Harrah's Auto Collection mechanics. It was then shipped to me in Orlando, FL , where it has been since. It has 6,309 miles on the odometer. Perhaps 200-300 miles of that has been since the rebuild. Much of its history since I acquired it can be read here: New Z in Town (in New Members Forum) (some pictures) and Rose's Ride (in Members' Projects/S-30 Series) (includes pictures & drawings) In summary, it has been completely disassembled, anything which can wear out has been replaced (excepting the engine), what rust was present has been repaired or replaced, and the engine compartment, under-chassis and interior floorpan have been refinished. It already has the expensive, desirable modifications: five-speed trans, 4 wheel discs, LSD, 4.11 gears, CV axles, aluminum radiator, aluminum driveshaft, Eibach springs, Tokico struts/shocks, aluminum flywheel...Here is the part list for this process: [Parts List Link] The project is at a good place for a future owner to take over. It is ready for bodywork and paint, the interior needs to be reassembled and finished, and the inevitable small problems need sorting out. If you want to drop in a bigger engine, it's ready. Unless you are prepared to purchase a completed project, you will have some difficulty finding a 240 with fewer problems. Here are a couple of further topics, with pictures: A "Stock" Fuel Tank Solution Unusual Body Details and Projects Bottom line: I am asking $16,000 obo. Why? I have to start somewhere. I have receipts for at least $32,000 in new parts and professional labor, so half price seems like a good place to start. I am under no particular pressure to sell, so I will probably wait for the right offer, whatever that is. The car is in Orlando, is licensed and street-legal, is running, and has a clean title. 240Z Parts List, rev 2.pdf
  4. Oddjob

    Fuel Pump Noise and Wiring/Relays

    With the changes above, you are now at a voltage drop of 0.3vdc at the pump. This is really pretty good, and I will bet it represents a considerable improvement over the stock wiring. I think you will see a further improvement when you run the star-ground lead you described from the firewall to the taillight ground buss. With any luck, all of this will fix your problem. If not, at least you have eliminated the prime candidate. Good luck.
  5. Oddjob

    Fuel Pump Noise and Wiring/Relays

    Well, here's the science of it: There are two reasons for your relay to be hot. The coil that holds the relay closed will dissipate some heat. This is normal, and will have no effect at all on your fuel pump. The other reason is resistance across the contacts. A tiny amount is normal, but as you say you have a 0.2vdc voltage drop across the contacts, this could indicate a problem such as pitted contacts. The repair is to file the contacts smooth, and then burnish with emery cloth, assuming you can get inside the case. A new, good quality relay should show an unmeasurable voltage drop across the contacts, at least with a hobby-quality VOM. What is of more interest is whether your pump is hot. The lower the voltage you supply to the pump, the higher the current (amperage) will go, creating more heat. The voltage drop to your pump is governed mostly by resistance, and that is chiefly a function of distance and wire size. The stock wire run to the rear is almost certainly too small a guage for a performance application. I used 10AWG on mine (a Holley red-top), without a relay, from the 12v source all the way to the pump. Another problem is the return path (ground). I measured the resistance across the stock return path and found it around 36 ohms. This results in a substantial voltage drop at the pump. Since I have star-grounded most of my car, the pump now has a dedicated 10AWG run back to the ground bus near the battery (resistance = 0 ohms). Most of the details of all this are posted elsewhere on Hybrid Z. My initial reaction is that your pump is heating up after being run awhile, due to voltage drop. Since the Bosch 044 is air-cooled you can easly check it after a run on the freeway on a warm day. When a pump becomes heat-soaked, its performance changes for the worse.
  6. Here's some information and pictures of the installation on my 1971. The information starts at Post #21, on Page 2. Rose's Ride Fuel Pump Installation
  7. Oddjob

    toggle switch for turn signals?

    Umm... you haven't said what year your Z is. The switch has changed over time. My remarks above are specific to the early Z (mine is a '71). Sorry for jumping to the conclusion yours was, as well....
  8. Oddjob

    toggle switch for turn signals?

    No, this won't work at all, unless you are going to rewire much of the car. A simple DPDT center off switch dosn't have anything like the number of poles you would need, nor does it have any possibility of recreating the switching logic of the original. I took a quick look at the wiring diagram I have, and it would take something like 13 poles to recreate the switch (just for the turn signals), and probably more when you start to do the logic. For example, I set out to replace the emergency flasher switch, which you'd think could be a DPDT. It wasn't. Take a look at the eventual solution here for a preview of what you would have to do to "replace" that switch. Scroll down to posts 18, 19, and especially 20 (open the PDFs in 19 & 20). It took 15 connections worth of switching to do, and is much simpler than the combination switch. I don't want to discourage you, it can be done, but you will have to do some circuit design. It won't be a half-hour project.
  9. Oddjob

    A “Stock� Fuel Tank Solution

    You are quite right, the tank shown is different than the earlier tanks. Do you have any idea what years this would cover? Yours is a '77, I gather. You might post as much info as you can for the benefit of the 280 guys (dimensions, sources etc.).
  10. Oddjob

    '79 280zx ground wiring question

    Try searching on "star ground" which will yield some interesting results. The idea of cleaning up un-used grounds sounds attractive at first, but you may want to consider the rule of unanticipated consequences, which is likely to bite you. The Z is unibody construction, not a frame, as you probably know. I have measured the grounds to various points, and have found readings from a few ohms up to about 250 ohms. I ended up using a star ground, which measures below the meter resolution (<1 ohm) to each connected load. Works great.
  11. Oddjob

    Auto Meter Fuel Gauge

    There is a sticky on this around here somewhere. Since they moved the stickies, I'm not sure where. In any case, here's an explanation about the "non-linearity" that you have observed, and why you can't fix it with resistors, different senders, etc. The stock Z sender is designed to output in a non-linear fashion. The stock Z guage is linear. The Autometer sender is linear. The autometer guage is near linear, but compensated. The problem is the stock Z gas tank. If you look at it, it contains much more fuel in the bottom third of height than the top two-thirds. What that means is that the tank fills in a non-linear way. Bending the float and/or putting in resistors will only change the F and E indications, but not the indications in-between. The stock Z sender was designed to be non-linear to compensate for the differing amount of fuel this oddly-shaped tank contains at a given height. Remember, the float indicates a height, not a capacity. In a regularly-shaped tank (a rectangle), the fuel height is directly proportional to a volume. In the Z tank, it isn't. The solution I am using is to use the Autometer sender and guage combination, adjust the F and E points using the float arm, then fill the tank a gallon at a time, re-marking the guage at the accurate capacities for 1/8 through 7/8. In effect, I am re-calibrating the guage to read in a non-linear, but accurate fashion.
  12. Whether or not it is legal, it is a really bad idea for about a dozen reasons. Search on this topic here on Hybrid Z, and you will find a great deal of information, including those dozen reasons.
  13. Oddjob

    do you HAVE to cut your floor for a fuel cell?

    The tank shown in this post can be filled with fuel cell foam (by the builder), as an option. It would be about $700, I think.
  14. Oddjob

    Rose's Ride

    Bodywork on the car has started. It is being done in phases, as the car can't be off the street for an extended length of time. The first phase was a group of small, annoying modifications, including new outside mirrors, new marker lights, new rear bumper, better fit for the antenna, and sealing the badge holes. Note that these are not repairs, but hybrid solutions to various common problems. All of these are detailed below with pictures and parts lists: Unusual Body Details
  15. Oddjob

    Fuel cell or modded tank, and what's a good budget?

    Here's the high end of stock tanks. It doesn't seem to need either a sump or a surge tank, doesn't require any cutting, and is outside the passenger compartment. "Stock" tank It was $590.
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