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Tony D

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Tony D last won the day on February 21

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About Tony D

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    Wiki D
  • Birthday September 26

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    http://thisisbullshit.com
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    demonoid6969

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    Reno NV & Lucena Quezon, Philippines
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    Sheep

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  1. Hell this was here under "how to replace a head gasket" in fact... "Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly!"
  2. Oh, this just CRIES OUT for this answer:
  3. Why more horsepower with a carb

    Oh, and just to point it out, I believe it was RHD Japan that was selling the Sangyo Kiki EFI set complete for like 1800 yen equivalents...whatever size you wanted, 40, 45, 47, or ??? Brandy new, in the box complete including TPS...all you needed was cheap GM MAT, MAP, and CLT sensors for the Microsquirt and you were complete...
  4. Why more horsepower with a carb

    ITBs with little use are up on ebay all the time in the $1500-2000 range. Which happens to be about what triples sell for when they are decent. ITB's don't need the attention carbs do, you have to work very, VERY hard to get a bad set of ITB's. It is VERY EASY to get a bad set of carbs that ends in a money pit. Sensors, a pfennings, and an ECU to run them is $475 from DIY Autotune look up "Microsquirt" they work JUST FINE! Just to screw with your head, fact of the matter was I bought a 76 with an L28, header, and triple DCOE 40's on it. Made ALL the right noises, brutally accelerated and made a whopping 85 horsepower to the rear wheels. Replaced them with a stock EFI setup that was pulled off another 76 that had 176,000 miles on it. Ran the full intake ducting, including the silencer the only change being a K&N Filter Element as the CAI that I originally used hissed loudly and generally made too much noise. I removed the header, and installed the stock 76's cast iron manifold using an MSA downpipe to convert from the iron manifold to the MSA Exhaust that was on it. I ADDED another muffler under the car by the transmission to quiet it down further. With the EFI on it, felt kind of doggy. But it did whip the dyno to 146 rwhp, and consistently runs the 1/4 mile in 15.30-15.50 seconds. All that quiet is deceptive. So no, you won't automatically make more horsepower with triple webers, and chances are if you simply bolt them on to the car like the previous owner did with my set, you WILL lose copious gobs of horsepower! Might sound good...but that is why we say the Butt-Dyno is a worthless evaluation of ANY performance addition.
  5. One might say it's got a better engine in it now that what any GTR ever had! Isn't is nice how the intake ports just happen to line up with the factory S20 Aircleaner? Must be blind dumb luck...right? LOL I REALLY like that valve cover...
  6. Don Potter Racing Cam?

    How is anything on that dyno chart 'killing' anything? It's above the L490 at every point of the curve.
  7. Are there aftermarket ECU's and Injectors currently available for DI applications? This is barely being touched in the OEM market at this time, do you have access to these required parts, and if so could you provide a link? Conversion is not that difficult if parts are available.
  8. Why more horsepower with a carb

    The costs of the triple carbs are now almost identical to a set of ITB's. Comparing stock EFI plenum to Triple Mikunis or DCOEs is a serious 'apples to oranges' comparison. The dyno sheets WERE up here, in regards to our Bonneville L28, which ran, in turn, a Predator Four-Barrel, 45DCOE's, and then TWM ITB's. In each iteration there was an increase in power and civility of the exact same engine--a very important fact to realize is ALL that was changed was intake type (the TecII Ignition merely ramped identically to our recurved distributor): The Predator made 217 Hp and just didn't pull well over 6,500 rpms, it idled at 2,200 rpms. The 45 DCOE's made considerably more HP, with a power peak of 7,500 rpms, it idled at 1,700 rpms. The 45mm TWM ITB's made 17~20 more Horsepowerthan the DCOE's at 7,500 rpms, and 40 HP More at the new power peak of 8,250 rpms. Idle was wherever we wanted it: it would pop along at 450 rpms, and start easily in 39F weather on a 1,900 fast idle, and come down as it warmed up to a curbe idle of 950. This can be attributed to pumping loss restriction? Below 6,500 a four barrel seems to be competitive, above that Triple ITB's or DOCE/Webers are the power kings. You will always need a larger carb to get the same HP as an ITB. We could have made this same power with 55 DCO's, but they would NOT have been applicable to run on our L20A later when we switched classes downsize. That's a lot of money to pay for something you can only use on one of two engines you have!
  9. Don Potter Racing Cam?

    Anecdote: When Don was alive he was found by many to be somewhat...uh "Abrasive"... In fact in the old Z Car Magazine he had a column which was proudly "Curmudgeon" or something... I approached him at MSA back in the 90's as well, as someone pointed to him and said "he can recurve your distributor"... I went up and introduced myself and said so and so said you can recurve my distributor, what are we looking at for pricing and lead time? "$476, and when I get to it, you'll get it." And back he went to his conversation. "OK, fair enough" thought I... Poking back into the conversation I merely added "Do you have a card or something so I can call you later and make arrangements?" He seemed a bit shocked, but handed me a card and went back to his conversation paying me no more mind. So I called him two weeks later, told him who I was...we started talking about the build, what I wanted, yadda yadda yadda and somewhere in there I mentioned "I kick myself in the ass for ever selling my SUN Distributor Machine, for what I would have paid to ship it I could just do this myself and not wait..." Don asked quickly "You had your own Sun Machine? Why?" I explained we had one when I trained back in Michigan, that I got a deal on a surplus unit at a military disposal auction but sold it, a Sioux Valve Grinding Machine, and one of those old Sit on the Block Top Boring Bars back to another fellow bidder with a shop because I was hopelessly overweight on household baggage and was maximizing my weight on Datsun Parts and not machine tools which I convinced myself were plentiful in the USA... "So much for that stupid decision." Ended up talking to Don for about two hours and in the end he says "What did I tell you for the distributor recurve?" I said "$476" He just started laughing..."well, I was right again!" He apologized saying he gets approached all the time at car shows from guys with grand ideas but who just want everything for free. He says "I got a set of weights here, should be just what you need, give me your address and I can get them in the mail tomorrow." $20! Came in a heavy business envelope with three stamps on it. "DPE, Milpitas" was the return address. And he was right, they were spot on what I wanted them to do. In so many ways I watch this exact same scenario play out on internet boards to this day and think "Man, if I acted like these guys today, I'd have lost hours of free advice and discussion with a veritable L-Engine Genius!" I mean, once he determined your bonafides, he opened up quite a bit especially if you were not a competitior and understood his side of the business and people always ripping him off (which I understood all too well!) When we took over a distributor there in Milpitas and they made me interim service manager I was almost jumping out of my skin to go...all after work was 'see if I can get over to Don's' just to talk about nothing in particular. Just hang and hope for osmosis to kick in. It was a sad day when he passed on, we are all less without him.
  10. How to remove a head with ARP studs

    This is how you lift a head off with a helper. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note assistant was present to photodocument the process. This really should be put in the FAQ, the pictures make it so much clearer, huh?
  11. How to remove a head with ARP studs

    THERE we have the answer. You're fine, you just have to lift it level... if you tilt, it will bind. I've never pulled the studs to remove the head, it kind of defeats the purpose of having them there in the first place! LOL Oh, I got a photo for this comment regarding a helper... Let me get my phone and see if I can attach it... mowhahahaha!
  12. Playing with fire

    it's all a nice exercise... Have titanium valves, retainers, spring keepers? Well then lighten that reciprocating end and run a lighter spring, you might be good to 24,000 rpms! stock nissan rockers on our bonneville engine were stable to 13,000 rpms in our testing. I think valve, spring, and cam profile selection play a much more critical role. If you note the E-Motive guys polished theirs similar to TimZ. We didn't even do that, though I have in the past on other engines (Yamaha....)
  13. How to remove a head with ARP studs

    Did you feel that resistance on your head on installation? I've taken mine on and off for tech inspection I can't count the times and not had this issue. Was the head warped from overheating, possibly?
  14. I sent you a drawing of the groove we use for the static seal on our gearboxes. Captures the O-Ring in whatever component you want to machine the groove. Ip to you if you want to machine the head to hold the O-Ring and keep a simple flat valve cover, or vice versa. When I get the O-Ring spec drawing I'll let you know--that way you can scale what you have to whatever O-Ring you decide to use, wherever. Seems to keep the throw off from the pinions at bay, they're slinging oil out at 45,000+ rpms directly at the splitline joint!
  15. Derek, Is the valve cover O-Ring Groove square or trapezoid? Our gearboxes use a trapezoid cut o-ring groove on the splitline. We can do that easily because the cutter can enter from multiple points around it...you would have to plunge in and go... That trapezoid holds that O-Ring in place so you really don't have to glue it except around 25mm at each endpoint where oil can enter from the gearbox. I would assume with this one you could either superglue the O-Ring stock and then put it in place or maybe butt the ends and apply a dab of Loctite 598 / Permatex Ultrablack to seal the oil intrusion point. It makes it kind of nice as you lift the cover off and the O-Ring is held fast and doesn't fall all over stuff.
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