Jump to content
HybridZ

Tony D

Donating Members
  • Content count

    9885
  • Donations

    1,500.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    68
  • Feedback

    100%

Tony D last won the day on August 11

Tony D had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

143 Excellent

About Tony D

  • Rank
    Wiki D
  • Birthday September 26

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://thisisbullshit.com
  • Skype
    demonoid6969

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Reno NV & Lucena Quezon, Philippines
  • Interests
    Sheep

Recent Profile Visitors

22067 profile views
  1. Block heater core - add pressure sensor?

    sorry, missed all of them. You can plug both the bypasses and plug the heater core fittings as long as you use a thermostat with a couple of big holes in it, a bypass cooler setup, or provide for circulation of the pump while it's warming up. On a race car, a restrictor plate or double 8mm hole in a standard thermostat should provide more than enough flow so the pump doesn't cavitate at startup cold and pump dead headed into the block. The idea is to give that flow somewhere to go, and in this case, it goes to the radiator so you end up heating up ALL the water in the system, instead of just what is in the block (internal recirculation till thermostat opens) so it takes a bit longer. Just idle it in the pits with the fan off or cover a bunch of the radiator with cardboard to bring it all up to temperature before putting any serious load on it. An easy lap around most tracks gettting the tires up to temperature will accomplish this. I try to keep a thermostat in most things unless it's all balls out racer that sees idle for warmup and 3500+ the rest of the time. Removing the bypasses and plugging the flow to the heater will insure 100% cooling capacity is available for the engine. It's obligatory on 300 hp, at 200 you can still run a thermostat with the two holes punched in it (or a -6 bleeder line from the lower thermostat housing to the radiator hot tank) to keep the flow and prevent cavitation. Bluntly, the heater and bypass represent shunts of the radiator, and decrease total possible heat rejection. The bypasses should be eliminated in all racing cars for maximum cooling. Heater with a core, yes. NEVER loop it, PLUG the holes like when the heater valve is ÖFF"! Good Luck
  2. Block heater core - add pressure sensor?

    I have always used pump outlet/block pressure which should be identical. The problem using above the head gasket is that the orifices restrict the flow and you don't see the pump cavitating, and in most cases the thermostat is wide open so all you get is cap pressure which can be maintained with quite a bit of coolant loss. There is a block drain fitting on the left side at the very back. That is where I put my block pressure line. You will see it flutter and drop when your lower radiator hose collapses from suction out of the radiator, you will see flutter when it cavitates. It will be an interesting learning curve.... Absolutely though, if you cut a hose and start pumping coolant out, you will see that go to nothing fast. Some people put a hobbs switch in that sensing point that triggers below cap pressure (and you bypass it with a rocker swtich during warmup)... It can ground the magneto, kill the ignition, light a big red CHECK WATER light...whatever....
  3. Japan 240Z model car

    The 240Z is what we in the Export World called the Fairlady Z... Only 417 of the Fairlady Z received the S20 DOHC, and they were referred to as "Fairlady Z 432... There were Fairlady Z's, and Fairlady 240Z's, and for a short time before recall Fairlady 260Z's. The Fairlady Z was the SOCH 2.0 Liter Japan Market only S30... Where it all began. It was a continuation of the Nissan/Datsun Sports Car Line started in the early days of the company, and which received the ""Fairlady"appellation in the 1950's in conjunction with the release of the movie "My Fair Lady"... True Story.
  4. REALLY APPRECIATE THE UPDATE! Like anything else, government meddling drives up prices. Most of this is recordkeeping and compliance burden. Given what it removes 9every bit of rust...man... Almost worth a U-Haul and the Gas to Phoenix for a Drop and Pickup, huh?
  5. RIP Joel Soileau

    His brother posted the Obit on FB earlier, with service details for those in the local area: http://www.memorialsolutions.com/sitemaker/sites/JOHNSO8/m/?p=memorial&id=2024962
  6. 200hp on stock internals?

    The Eurospec L28ET was factory rated at 200 bhp with 300.000 mile reliability. I think 200 hp is well within the realm of safe engine modification.
  7. Is that some sort of other bypass valve on the plenum? It appears that the BEGI Compressor Bypass Valve has been removed and another substituted. Confirm? Better photo?
  8. Race car and exhaust fumes

    This is the wonderful advantage of an RHD Car, just keep that window closed and kick it out the left side!
  9. Port Matching N42 Head for Triple Webers

    Just remember this, optimal face size is 35mm. You can flow 230cfm through that face juncture. If you are porting so the injector notch isn't showing anymore, you're doing it wrong unless you're running 55 DCOE's. Even then, head juncture is 40-43mm and the notch still exists. What evidence to prove the flow is hurt by leaving those notches in there? I'd like to see it other than just someone claiming "it makes turbulence" especially in lieu of the fact that dyno numbers show the SCCA allowable "port matching" on the manifold and head 1" either direction of the gasket surface doesn't reap any performance reward, but if done improperly can hurt performance. The flow is in the bowl and short side radius, not the diameter of the runner or removing injector notches. 35mm is more that big enough to allow most triple manifolds to taper no more than 7 degrees to hit the throttle plate diameter at the carb/manifold flange. Proper angle-tapered porting of the Triple Manifold is more fruitful, depending on which one you have. Most for L28's now come near 35mm already and have the proper taper from 40 to 35 or 45 to 35 at the head flange.
  10. Moving the Torque and HP curve

    An adjustable gear may move it up somewhat, but there likely will be a torque tradeoff made (it will be peakier, loss at the bottom). There is only so much you can do with the L28 cam which peaks at around 5300. An L20A cam, or L26 C cam was the hot ticket from my recollection. They will pull all the way up to a power peak at 6500. The difference in the two, you see the characteristic HP curve is very similar, timing will move it left or right, not up or down. The torque curve is the same, it will move SLIGHTLY upward, but there will reach a point that the bottom end just go away completely. The torque is VERY dependent on proper timing events. It will move a LITTLE, but it will get peakier. The HP will move somewhat left or right...we are talking 2 to 4 degrees max. It appears run 12 had a better, wider torque curve, and the HP curve was proper. The Red Traces though higher and WAY to early, and my bet is you will be able to move them where the blue traces are, without affecting much on the bottom end, the torque falls off WAY to early on the blue traces as does the HP. I think the timing is slightly off, maybe 2 degrees. Get that adjustable cam gear and get the events proper...or just reference it, and then go 2 degrees one way, and 2 degrees the other. That will show you which way will gain you what you want.
  11. Comparing triples to plenum induction

    It bears repeating my DCOE N42 experience with the butt dyno... With the 40 DCOE's and header it sounded great, FELT fast as hell, but dynoed at 87RWHP Changing ignition leads, putting an all stock 76 EFI system onto the car (including stock exhaust manifold with MSA downpipe to the same 2.5" Crush-Bent Exhaust) and changing plug wires with the stock air box and K&N filter in it had EVERYBODY saying the car was "torquey at the bottom end" and "fell off up top"... Consensus from multiple Butt Dynos was the car was more tractable due to the torque, but wasn't as 'fast'... Of course, it also Dynoed at 147 RWHP at the same shop and same dyno the DCOES were set up... Now, the DCOE's were NOT optimized. But the sounds and the WAY they seemed to have an "on-off" switch throttle response convinced EVERYBODY including me that they had gobs of power over a stock setup. Of course, and properly set up DCOE set should make more...but the point of this post was the butt dyno was worthless in any manner of empirical evaluation and gave universal 100% incorrect feedback. :
  12. Draw through carb turbo setup

    Rayjay external wastegate worked OK to limit boost to around 12 psi. It was connected off the brake booster line with a "T" before the check valve. A boost controller in that line usually had a bleeder hole upstream from the ball-check adjustable controller and the wg actuator... You definitely want to limit it, that turbo will go to 21 psi without a problem, and quicker than you think! The hole was for the carburetor de-icing on the Carter YH that normally bolts to the front of that turbo. In cold or even cool areas with any kind of humidity at partial throttle, especially off-idle the original one-barrel would ice up like a big dog without exhaust heat circulating through that tubing and connected to those two holes! Carb sucked air in from the air cleaner, through that base plate, and through the carb base. Welcome to using parts from non-watercooled engines! ;^P
  13. Run off to the jungle to get chimps throwing crap at me through the fence, work 176 hours, and come back to find all this...
  14. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    ^^^ Now selling a copy of the database on an updated basis for offline viewing, or possible compilation into a book... now that sounds interesting!
  15. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Ohhhh, dude... If I could share my speed logs from the phone... "High Speed" is very subjective!
×