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Tony D

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Tony D last won the day on August 11

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About Tony D

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    Wiki D
  • Birthday September 26

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    http://thisisbullshit.com
  • Skype
    demonoid6969

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  • Location
    Reno NV & Lucena Quezon, Philippines
  • Interests
    Sheep

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  1. Race car and exhaust fumes

    This is the wonderful advantage of an RHD Car, just keep that window closed and kick it out the left side!
  2. Port Matching N42 Head for Triple Webers

    Just remember this, optimal face size is 35mm. You can flow 230cfm through that face juncture. If you are porting so the injector notch isn't showing anymore, you're doing it wrong unless you're running 55 DCOE's. Even then, head juncture is 40-43mm and the notch still exists. What evidence to prove the flow is hurt by leaving those notches in there? I'd like to see it other than just someone claiming "it makes turbulence" especially in lieu of the fact that dyno numbers show the SCCA allowable "port matching" on the manifold and head 1" either direction of the gasket surface doesn't reap any performance reward, but if done improperly can hurt performance. The flow is in the bowl and short side radius, not the diameter of the runner or removing injector notches. 35mm is more that big enough to allow most triple manifolds to taper no more than 7 degrees to hit the throttle plate diameter at the carb/manifold flange. Proper angle-tapered porting of the Triple Manifold is more fruitful, depending on which one you have. Most for L28's now come near 35mm already and have the proper taper from 40 to 35 or 45 to 35 at the head flange.
  3. Moving the Torque and HP curve

    An adjustable gear may move it up somewhat, but there likely will be a torque tradeoff made (it will be peakier, loss at the bottom). There is only so much you can do with the L28 cam which peaks at around 5300. An L20A cam, or L26 C cam was the hot ticket from my recollection. They will pull all the way up to a power peak at 6500. The difference in the two, you see the characteristic HP curve is very similar, timing will move it left or right, not up or down. The torque curve is the same, it will move SLIGHTLY upward, but there will reach a point that the bottom end just go away completely. The torque is VERY dependent on proper timing events. It will move a LITTLE, but it will get peakier. The HP will move somewhat left or right...we are talking 2 to 4 degrees max. It appears run 12 had a better, wider torque curve, and the HP curve was proper. The Red Traces though higher and WAY to early, and my bet is you will be able to move them where the blue traces are, without affecting much on the bottom end, the torque falls off WAY to early on the blue traces as does the HP. I think the timing is slightly off, maybe 2 degrees. Get that adjustable cam gear and get the events proper...or just reference it, and then go 2 degrees one way, and 2 degrees the other. That will show you which way will gain you what you want.
  4. Comparing triples to plenum induction

    It bears repeating my DCOE N42 experience with the butt dyno... With the 40 DCOE's and header it sounded great, FELT fast as hell, but dynoed at 87RWHP Changing ignition leads, putting an all stock 76 EFI system onto the car (including stock exhaust manifold with MSA downpipe to the same 2.5" Crush-Bent Exhaust) and changing plug wires with the stock air box and K&N filter in it had EVERYBODY saying the car was "torquey at the bottom end" and "fell off up top"... Consensus from multiple Butt Dynos was the car was more tractable due to the torque, but wasn't as 'fast'... Of course, it also Dynoed at 147 RWHP at the same shop and same dyno the DCOES were set up... Now, the DCOE's were NOT optimized. But the sounds and the WAY they seemed to have an "on-off" switch throttle response convinced EVERYBODY including me that they had gobs of power over a stock setup. Of course, and properly set up DCOE set should make more...but the point of this post was the butt dyno was worthless in any manner of empirical evaluation and gave universal 100% incorrect feedback. :
  5. Draw through carb turbo setup

    Rayjay external wastegate worked OK to limit boost to around 12 psi. It was connected off the brake booster line with a "T" before the check valve. A boost controller in that line usually had a bleeder hole upstream from the ball-check adjustable controller and the wg actuator... You definitely want to limit it, that turbo will go to 21 psi without a problem, and quicker than you think! The hole was for the carburetor de-icing on the Carter YH that normally bolts to the front of that turbo. In cold or even cool areas with any kind of humidity at partial throttle, especially off-idle the original one-barrel would ice up like a big dog without exhaust heat circulating through that tubing and connected to those two holes! Carb sucked air in from the air cleaner, through that base plate, and through the carb base. Welcome to using parts from non-watercooled engines! ;^P
  6. Run off to the jungle to get chimps throwing crap at me through the fence, work 176 hours, and come back to find all this...
  7. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    ^^^ Now selling a copy of the database on an updated basis for offline viewing, or possible compilation into a book... now that sounds interesting!
  8. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Ohhhh, dude... If I could share my speed logs from the phone... "High Speed" is very subjective!
  9. California regulations

    There is a smog forum for california legalities. Guys with supercars usually have the means to not worry about a $1,000 deductible. In the Datsun world, most of these owners are one paycheck away from selling the project to make rent or eat so playing fast and loose with insurance than can say "denied" and not even pay out $2,500 for a decent replacement junker to roll in and get to work can suck bigtime. Yeah, you can get a 'garaging address' where they don't do smogs, and send all your documents to that address (CA plate renewal, new registrations and stickers, etc...) but for all that matter if you are circumventing the law why the hell would you want to pay CA prices for essentially saying the car is in LA? May as well retain the LA plates until MADE to change them. Insure it there, register it there.... all depends if your job needs you to have a CA license or not.
  10. How NOT to install fender flares

    Everybody is an expert now, thanks to YouTube and Herocam!
  11. Nissan Legal wanted at one time to sue all the Z-Car Clubs in the Nation because of the very same issue. These are the same people who tried to trademark the letter "Z". They have lawyers, money, and time. Gotta dance the dance and not use their trademarks unless you have that little disclaimer somewhere in the ad you always see (the words 240Z, 240SX, blah blah blah indicates only suitability for application and not an endorsement or whatever they always write by Nissan, Nissan North America, or Nissan Motor Corporation... Welcome to Murrica! Don't forget the fight Mr. Nissan had with his websites that predated the Auto Manufacturer!
  12. Oh, and if the thermal switch is turning your fan on later than 175F, its likely too late. If you have read my prior posts on e-fan setup, the above test to determine slowest speed stable temp you get on a hot day dictates where your fan turns on so it's not running while going down the freeway or even in city streets. It will only come on in stop and go and come on early enough to prevent nucleate boiling from starting and becoming a problem. I set mine to turn on 10F above where my temperature stabilized on that 110F day, right around 175. I could see the temp rise on the stock gauge, hear the fan kick on and watch it go back to lower temperature then shut back off. Cycled nicely in stop and go, and has since 1990!
  13. I got to mention on the Engine Masters that they don't discount the slippage on the Nissan unit. The fan blades are at a governed speed. That is why they come up with a whirr and then stablize flat in pitch and noise. Unless the engine is uphill in the summer towing a load and radiator temps get hot enough to reengage the slip clutch it will not take over a given horsepower.... That said.... Do you still have the 160F thermostat in it? If you are reaching 195, where is this measured and on what kind of gauge? What PSI is your radiator cap, and what is your glycol/water mix percentage? In short, with a 3.36 rear gear, in fifth gear WITH NO FAN WHATSOEVER, running 30 mph, on a 110F Palm Springs Day, your engine should run 165-170F with a 160 thermostat. If it doesn't your system is deficient in heat rejection or circulation. Do NOT loop the heater core. Plug it. Do not let the external bypass line stay open in hot weather. You should be able to cool a stock or even hot rodded engine of 250 hp with a standard three core copper and brass radiator. The biggest thing you can to to suppress nucleate boiling is to run a higher pressure cap. 16 is a minimum, but a 24 or 30# cap will keep the steam from forming pockets and causing a runaway overheating issue. Now, you state 'overheating' but 220 is warm...not necessarily overheated. You need to specify which thermostat you have as the temperature at the back of the head will be 15-20F higher than what you sense at the thermostat outlet at the front of the engine. This is why the back cylinders detonate so often. Most curious on where the temperatures are coming from...either I missed it in reading the thread, or it hasn't been mentioned.
  14. Read the thread and do the suggested fixes and then post again...
  15. Is this site dead?

    FB is ZC.Com X1000 in terms of asshats out there with absolutely no technical acumen preaching to people. The sad thing is the really knowledgeable people you meet from that place tend to withdraw when they see the gaggle and hoarde... It's Social Justice Warrior time, have to tiptoe around even the most basic things as children of all ages take offense at the slightest hint of a slight. Oh, and then there's the haters from the forums that just come on to blast someone when they've been drinking. That's always a hoot. It's fun for what it is, but most people are referencing these forum sites for searching and archives of knowledge, and that was exactly what the originators envisioned. Not a popular site with banter and crap...but a place where GOOD knowledge was exchanged, and deposited so others who wanted the knowledge without the background noise would have a place to go! And in that, it functions as designed. The references you see on FB are "HybridZ" this, "Classic Z" that... If they could move the useless banter all to Zukerbergs anal probe marketing site, and keep knowledge pure and factual here...oh let me sing like Willy Wonka!
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