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HybridZ

Idnevno

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Everything posted by Idnevno

  1. Yeah, speaking of other projects in the making, i am converting my l28et with a 50 shot and 25 psi over to a turbo charged 350. I am using the old Martin turbo setup since it only cost me 200 dollars, and the holley Pro Jection setup. I think more people need to be doing turbocharged 350's, They just look so much more impressive when you open the hood. I will try and post pics in the next couple days.
  2. I totally agree, you should be able to to shift very smoothly almost no matter what as long as the synchros are good, if the synchros are not good, then you would probably grind gears going in, or the shifter would have a tendency to pop out of gear under load, or sometimes it makes it extremely difficult to shift. You may also have a problem with the pilot bushing did you put a new one in??
  3. It is probably going to be an internal problem inside of the transmission especially when you said the level was low. My first guess is that the synchros might not have all been changed and if so you could have warped or hurt one by being run low on oil. I would also wonder if they checked the shift rods for straightness?? If they are not straight then they tend to bind where they run through the case and not want to go into gear. If you want to pull it out or even bring the car to me i would be happy to break open the trans. and take a peek at it for you and then go from there. We are located maybe 30 miles away from ya i think, not to sure though. -Dave http://www.CreationZ.biz
  4. I just opened up my own shop out here in Sterling Va. Me and my friend used to work at Datsun Dynamics i worked there for 8 years my buddy 3. We are doing all sorts of work to all types of cars including frame rail and rust repair. If you all need references i have many you can talk to. Give us a shout sometime or feel free to e-mail us. -Dave http://www.CreationZ.biz
  5. that sounds pretty good. I just figured if your going to be putting down power that the frame might rip out or solid would twist the car. not so sure of which one would be better. i guess you are right though that it would be seat of the pants feel. well i guess i am off to mocking some up so i can get my motor in there one of these next weeks. right now though i think i am just going to put the L98 from the vette in their with the Martin turbo, until i can do the blown LT1. well thank you guys very much for the input and i'll go do some more research on it. -Dave
  6. I have a 77 280z of which i plan on putting in a blown small block. i haven't seen or heard to much on what style of motor mount or trans. mount people are running with V8 conversions. Do you all still run a rubber mount, urethane, or do you go solid. If solid is the way to go any recommendations on re-enforcing the frame rails in order to take the torque or twist of the engine under hard acceleration? I have a brand new 1992 LT1 Corvette engine of which i plan on rebuilding and modifying heavily in order to withstand 10 - 15 Psi of boost. With this much power i was just unsure of what style of mount is recommended. The ride quality does not concern me at all, for almost all of the suspension i am installing came off a SCCA GT2 280Z racecar that was full tubeframe chassis. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. -Dave
  7. i have a set of used triple weber 50's with a manifold that came off of my car. they are practically brand new that i know of. i was curius as to how much these things are worth being 50's. i look on ebay all the time but no one is selling 50's. if anyone has an idea of what they are worth please let me know it would be greatly appreciated.
  8. i can't believe no one has mentioned an Aston Martin Lagonda engine around mid '70s. from what i remember i believe they put out around 500 horse stock. they are also all aluminum dohc v8 engines.
  9. i have noticed that when my car is sitting settled on the ground i am roughly 2 inches off the pavement and my axles are at the opposite angle therefore creating an odd vibration. anyone have this problem as well or has anyone raised their diff up to compensate for this angle?? Dave
  10. anyone know if they make a low profile tire for a 16x12 rim? i would really need it to be streetable. i know i can get slicks but didn't know if they made a street tire in something like a 335/35/16???? i searched somewebsites that i know of but couldn't find any information. if anyone knows anything that might help it would be greatly appreciated. Dave
  11. i may have a couple moustache bars layin around for an R200 if not i am sure i can pull one out of one of my parts cars if ya want i'll charge ya 25 bucks for it you pay the shipping...... i should have a few i can send ya pics of em if ya want. and yes they are made of 1/4 inch tempered spring steel. i have broke 1 of them myself as well.
  12. hey try http://www.fibreglast.com that is who we use up at work all the time for all of our carbon, glass, and kevlar needs.
  13. couple obvious ideas not sure if you checked yet.... what is your fuel pressure at the rail??? and are all of the injectors firing equally?? all sound the same with same intensity of click as well consistent firing pattern of sound? what is the injector voltage? also have you checked to see if the cold start injector is hanging up (stuck open)? back to the fuel pressure thing is it a consistent fuel pressure at the rail or does it spike up and down alot? bout all the ideas i can come up with right now... Dave
  14. it worked those are pretty sweet pics. i am interested in short sleeve black shirt and a hat as well. i need at least 1 shirt if not a couple but i need em kinda big though 1xxl maybe 1 or 2 xxxl. D
  15. i believe you are correct, in your picture. when i have done them before i never reused any of the stock pieces. the only problem you might run into is actually starting the nut on the rod once installed. if i remember right you might have to compress the urethane bushings a little in order to get the nut to start on the rod. D
  16. check all your connections at your injectors make sure that they are all clean and tight as well. i keep running into the same problem in my 77 280. you can drive it great slowly but when you squah it hard it seems as though the car turns off and on again repeatedly. on mine i found a loose connection at the computer if i wiggled the harness i could get the car to die and run. when mine would hit that wall so to speak i was getting spark but no injector pulse. also check your AFM and pop the cover off and make sure it is clean inside as well as the connector pins are clean and tight. D
  17. hey i run a P90A head as well if you need some parts let me know and i will see what i can do... D idnevno@hotmail.com
  18. is there any way someone could send me some pics of their ideas??almost every picture people posted for some reason i can not see. all it is is a box with a big red X in it.. Thanx!!! D
  19. it sounds to me like maybe you might have a clogged oiler??? let me know what casting number yours is and we probably have one up at my work, i can find out how much they want for it and let ya know. Dave (idnevno@hotmail.com)
  20. i also thought that "Hybrid" meant different, modified, not stock. i have posted before on other "Z" sites of which i will not mention and was told i was basically doing the Z a great injustice and i should go find help with my questions or problems elsewhere. i do own a '77 280Z of which has been highly modified. granted it does have an L series engine in it. i hope to start working on my other Z soon of which i will need help with other topics such as body, suspension, steering (bump steer, and other wierd problems) if i do get this other z car. you say "Hybrid" and trust me if everything works out i will have a "HybridZ" to the fullest extent of the term. the only thing left original will be the roof and the block. i am looking at a full tube frame GT2 car to convert and make strret legal by the skin of my teeth. i hope you will still include some of us like myself as a member of this site though i do not post often. i have always admired and appreciated this site for the help i have received and the pride people on this site have taken in their own cars. i hope to continue to receive the great advice and opinions of others with their Z's, for i know my judgement with mine has not always been the best or worked out the best for me.
  21. i am running the inline 6 with a exhaust system i built from scratch. mine is 5 inch coming out the side. i had to cut out a section of the body to do it and remove the seat belt bucket. if anyone wants some pics let me know and i can send some. oh and this is not a 5 inch tip it goes 3 inch from down pipe to a dynomax race magnum muffler 3in 3out, to a 90 degree bend to 5 inches out the side of the car. just let me know if ya want some pics and i will send em.
  22. we have always had problems with the epoxy floors when you use jack stands and floor jacks. they have always seemed to chip the coating up then it would peel. D
  23. hey scottie if you want i should be taking my Z to daytona for spring break next year. i hope to have some of the bugs figured out by then. in terms of contradictions i would like to know what you think is contradicting because your opinion comes highly respected to me. i believe my injectors are stock non- turbo but not too sure. the intake and head have both been extrude honed. the exhaust is anything but restrictive. the turbo is a stock 83 280zx turbo of which i have had a ceramic bearings machined into it. the old brass?!? ones did not hold up at all above 12 - 14 psi. the water injection is shooting water into the compressor side of the turbo which turns to steam to keep detonation down. the timing i set at 2 degrees with the vacuum hose disconnected. i am also retarding the timing 1 degree for every pound of boost. i am jumping the cold start injector when i see 4 pounds or more of boost. i start to come down from running real rich around 16 pounds i just start hitting the red zone (lean) with the air fuel gauge at 20 pounds at 25 pounds i start to detonate. i am also running 108 octane gas as well to get this to work successfully. my next step hopefully is to convert over to the 300zx electronics. any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. it's just kind of odd it might be coincidence though from doing exhaust and now a stumble under acceleration until 1500 - 2000 rpm. i am considering dropping my fuel pressure from 42 psi at idle down to 30 or 35 but i am worried about high end fuel pressure and getting enough pressure when i run high boost levels. right now at 20 pounds boost i am seeing 68 psi fuel pressure.
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