svMike

Thanks Ian & whatnow. Didn't mean to threadjack, but I've been looking for ideas on how to get a pinion snubber on my short nose R200.

whatnow123, do you have a picture of your pinion snubber?

+1 on community college welding class. Don't buy a machine until you have some training. The class I took started us off with acetylene torches, then MIG, then TIG or stick, whichever you were interested in. Everyone says MIG is easier, but I disagree. TIG allows you fine control of the puddle so you can adjust as you go. MIG is easy in that it is point and shoot. Point is, you won't know what you want until you get some training and you can know what you prefer. Also, much cheaper to learn on someone's machine, metal and consumables. That's probably your best way to getting it right the first time. Good luck!

Logo looks like Prosport: http://prosportgauges.com/index.aspx

Those pics make me smile so much, my face hurts.

I had the same experience JohnC when I looked into this for my car: paint shops in my area suggested leaving it alone after soda blasting. They were equally empathic that soda needs to be fully neutralized before paint. BarryK of Southern Polyurethanes said the same thing when I asked him about how to prep.

Thanks Jon, I gave them a call yesterday and they were very helpful in figuring out what I needed. Great customer service. They also gave me some tips on cutting out the tower, which helps since their "instructions" look like they were photocopied from a lunchtime napkin doodle. GreenState has offered his template and I'm also using forrest280z' CAD template, which should hopefully make the install easier. Shooting for this weekend, again.

Thanks for the offer, you've got PM. I called GC yesterday and they sent me the bolt plate along with new bushings and new top bolts. Great customer service there.

Got my camber plates from GC today and I have a few questions. Is there a difference between the front plate and rear plate? All of my plates are identical, but GC website differentiates between front and rear plate. GC ships a bushing that fits over the shock's threaded top. The bushing then fits inside the spherical bearing. This bushing is supposed to fit the threaded body, right? It fits my front shock, but not my rear shock. It looks like I didn't get any of the bolts, nuts and washers that mount the plate the shock tower, I expected these to be included. The top nuts also only fit my rear shock, but not my front shock. Very annoying since I noted which shock I was using and the diameter of the shock threads, they called to confirm and they STILL got it wrong.

Dan - that thread (Ground Control camber plates) was what got me thinking about installing it on top to begin with. It looks much nicer, but I think I'll mount it under the tower for now. I can always reinforce the bottom and move it to the top if I ever change my mind. Thanks for the help folks.

Thanks Jon, I've already bought the GC plates. I guess I'm trying to figure out of adding a stud plate to the bottom and bolting the camber plate to the top will be better/stronger than the standard GC install.

I'm going to start installing GC camber plates on my 240Z next week and I wanted some opinions on how these can be installed. It looks like most people are doing it the way GC recommends, which is to slot the tower and install the plate underneath. I've also seen a couple (see Mongo's Z-Car Build) who cut the tower and install a stud plate, then install the GC plate under that. When I spoke to GC, they say that it is much stronger to install it their way, but I sort of agree with Mongo that slotting the tower weakens it. Looking to get some opinions from folks who have done this and their thoughts on either install method.

They seem to be popular among the drift/flush/JDM crowd. Can't say what they would be worth, but you should look around in that direction to see who else would be interested and give you an approximate worth. They look like they are in rough shape though...

They look like Golf MK2 Recaros. That orange gradient screams 80's

Thanks, I'll look through your pics. The G8 GXP crank pulley is part number 12635649. This interchanges with LS3 Corvettes, so my accessory drive is the closer block offset, not the F-body offset, I also laid the steering rack on the k-member and checked for clearance against the crank pulley. There was about 3" of clearance, but that will shrink when the engine weight sits on the k-member, but I think there is still enough room there. I looked at LS1tech for FEAD arrangements and I think it might be possible to make an extension bracket from the bottom of the alt bracket to the bottom of the alt. This will get the alt to sit like the attached picture. If that works, that belt arrangement should work.