elishallen

You can get by without the TPS. I ran my megasquirt without one until just recently. It really helps for datalogging and flood clear. Edit: Oh and the accel enrichment.

What material are you using to print it? I do not think anything will hold up against the heat and pressure.

I can not tell if the pins are but I tightened up the female ends of the blade connectors.

The ignition control module is also different.

Back Story: Car randomly started to lean out 16-20 Afr under (attempted) acceleration. 76 body w/ Stock 81 L28ET This morning I picked up some QD Electric Cleaner and sprayed all the connectors on the ecu harness. The results were instant and incredible. I drove the car around the neighbor hood and to get gas. Now pay attention to this next part: I turn off the car to fill my tank, and turn the car back on and go directly home. A storm then passed over and afterwards the car started to lean out the exact same way as before. I thought the ECU got some water in it so I took it out, opened it up, and let it sit inside for about an hour and a half to dry. The ECU the goes back in the car but nothing different happens. I then use the QD again and it runs just fine. I turn it off and let it sit for about ten minutes then get back in and its leaning out again. More contact cleaner goes on and it works. So now I can only get it to work by spraying the connection. In Summary: car ran great and was able to turn off and back on once while keeping performance. The rest of the time the ECU connectors must be cleaned if I want to go anywhere. Anyone have any ideas as to why this is making the car run but only for one time?

Head to your local hardware store with the original and new sensor. They should be able to give you a hand finding an adapter.

Thanks for the input guys!

I've been recommended to just go with an eBay intercooler (universal kit for about 100) by a local Z guy. What are your alls opinions?

I would like to see this video haha

Maybe a bent clutch fork is the culprit.

Barely any different. There was a bad startup but then it went back to normal (bad). So is the j pipe port for the blow by upper hose ONLY? I now see that the lower needs to be on the other side of the throttle. I am still missing where the air regulator is supposed to run to. Thanks for being so patient with me NewZed Edit: after staring for another few minutes I noticed the lower blow by hose needs to be before the turbo. Thanks. Edit again: Would it really change anything moving it before the turbo? It seems like that shouldnt matter, but im no expert by any means obviously.

My bad the pic didn't actually load in the previous post.

Alright so here's the new and improved setup. I put the old check valve in line and you can see it Inbetween the oem and one of the oversized hose clamps. Any comments and constructive criticism is appreciated.

Thanks, I take it that this is a very incorrect approach?

The dipstick is in it's hole, yes. Also i have hit boost.

So I just finished up swapping an 81 l28et into my 76 280z. Runs and drives but far from a smooth running car due to only having a downpipe haha. Using the n42 intake seemed like a good idea at first but I really didnt study up enough on it. Problem number one: the turbo blocks where the crankcase vent goes into the manifold. My solution to this problem was to just run it back into the J pipe, figured this was pretty much the same thing as before just without the little check valve and now it is behind the throttle. Problem number two: What to do with the other line I had running from the T connector, that was connected to the vent on the valve cover and airflow regulator, back to the j pipe. I ended up capping it off and didnt really see any change in performance. I guess my question here is how important is the airflow through everything? Does the air regulator actually need to be connected before and after the throttle? I think this will be much easier to diagnose after I get an exhaust on the car, but for now its just running poorly.

I decided to go with a new and simpler relay and eliminate the old one. Problem solved.

Hey guys! I followed bumblezee's guide to doing the 1981 l28et swap and made sure to cross my t's and dot my i's. I don't think he covered how to wire up the fuel pump. So far after studying some diagrams I think I can use the 4 pin connector under my drivers side dash that has a black and white switched 12 V from the ignition. Can I run the switched power into the relay and then back into the blue/green wire going to the fuel pump? And would now be the best time to install a fuel pump switch as an anti theft precaution?

The charge light will be on unless the car is running and the alternator is working. So if your car isn't running, then your alternator is not being spun enough and thus your light is going to be on. My 76 was having similar issues, you need to bust out the FSM and multimeter and trouble shoot the ignition problem. I kept talking to people online for about 3 days when mine wasnt starting. After only ten minutes of checking voltage and resistance, I found my pickup coil was bad.

Hey davek, I ran across this when I was trying to decide what head to choose for my build. You may want to read the part about the Hydraulic head and using high lift cams! http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/

I use them to hold my toolbox in place when I whip around turns

Does anyone have any idea where to get that LCD mirror/gps/radar setup?

Haha, this happened to me after an 800 mile road trip once. Just take it easy for a few weeks, maybe use some fuel system treatment like lucas injector cleaner. See if that helps any.

Looking for a pulley in decent shape. Im located in Knoxville Tennessee. Also considering just getting a rebuilt engine. Let me know what you all have!

I always wondered what mounted there. I bought my 76 without one of those attached.