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100dollarZ

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About 100dollarZ

  • Birthday 04/21/1989

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  1. Just a belt from any local parts store tell them your car and model and all that. Shouldnt be more than 15 bucks.
  2. My second thought is you have the wrong throw out bearing. The collars are different lengths for different models and maybe youre trying to over extend the slave cylinder to take up the slack caused by a shorter collar. Did your new throw out bearing come as a complete unit or did you have to press it on your old collar? Its possible they sent you the wrong bearing. I am using the 240SX transmission as well, and the only thing I can think of that *might* cause an issue is if you used the KA front bearing cover on the L bellhousing. Im not 100% surem but the pivots might be different heights? Just a thought. If you used the L series bearing retainer Im pretty sure this isnt a problem.
  3. That sounds alot like a carb problem since it goes away after it runs. however, Have you tried a vacuum gauge hooked up to a dedicated vacuum source? if its a nice steady reading at approx 17-21 in/hg then that should be OK assuming its a stock engine. Try a gauge and see if any of these symptoms are what youre getting: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Good luck.
  4. did you bleed the air out of the system? Ive replaced the clutch in a couple Z's and they needed to be re-bled after the install.
  5. Hey All, *disclaimer* I did search :0 just didnt find any CONCRETE info about the mount except "it has to be modified" and things like that.. I got my KA / L series gearbox all ready to go in the car. I used my original 76 4 speed bellhousing and I will add to the knowledge base that: -I had to ream out ALL 3 shift rod holes, The 1-2 to 16mm and the other 2 I just cleaned up, took off maybe .4mm because they would hang up. -I had to mill down the inside of the bellhousing -I did not have to modify the front bearing cover, shift rods have proper throw clearance (I noted a member had to do this) Heres my completed tranny (have to clean it up before it goes in, but thats a 60 dollar megan racing V1 short throw on it, it really feels nice for the price) Ok, So I think that I am going to modify my mount like Nigel's mount. I hope he doesnt get mad if I use this picture to show you how he did it and then use the L series trans mount on the KA tranny like so? Thanks all !
  6. It sees the oil pressure of the engine, probably not anything more than 70 PSI.
  7. yeah that looks like a botch repair job. I havent worked with Z's with squirter bars, so I dont know what material is used in the pieces. If its iron/steel, it can be brazed, but Im not sure about steel/aluminum... Experience metallurgists should chime in, but I would get that repaired.
  8. it looks like it is VERY corroded. This can be caused by bad coolant (acidic) and anything like that in the system. Dissimilar metals in an engine can do weird things when the coolant turns acidic. Id also check your upper thermostat housing because it cant be much better than that.... Oh yeah, and what do you mean by it stopped working? is it plugged? Im sure alot of members have that part on hand. Good luck
  9. thanks Aziza Z, that was a big help! That and the JY 1976 I sanpped pictures of I think I can get it all working now.
  10. Hey everyone, So heres the new powerplant for the 100 dollar Z. Got it at pick a part, freshly rebuilt, pulled the head, 0.5 mm over, new flattops, bearings are spotless and so is the crankcase. Im guesstimating 10k miles based on valve, bore and bearing condition. Fresh N47 head and a good exedy clutch...All for 120 Leakdown test gave less than 20% at 40psi in all cyls. So, here it is after a toothbrush detail and a spray bomb rebuild. (no...that mini filter on the back of the intake isnt going to stay there...) Ok, so now onto business. Heres some engine bits I need help with. First, the breather hole in the side of the block. Can I leave it open or plug it and use a PCV thru the valve cover? Second the doohickey on the bottom of the throttle body. Can I plug the hole so it wont leak? Or should I take the functioning control of my other TB and put it on? Third, does this piece go here, onto the big barb of the TB to the back of the air bypass? Fourth, I swear I remember a return spring being there...the tb spring alone is way too light.. Fifth, is this too corroded to use? of could I just block it off and bypass the heater if I block of the other line too? I took out the whole stock 1976 fuel injection to make room for a megasquirted turbo l28, but thats long past and I need to get her on the road. I put the harness back in, but here are some pictures of things Im not quite sure where they go. Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated..Id like to get her on the road this weekend. Is this the correct location for the FI power harness by the battery? These plugs were on a mini-harness by the coil. that beige plug is where it connects to on the other end. What are these for? Are these the water temp wires? these were by the coil bracket Thanks SO MUCH guys!
  11. Hey all, the Z project was on hold while I fixed up my 81 turbo Trans am. Ive been daily driving the TA, but the 13 mpg has really gotten to my head...so Im going to get the Z running again. Z had its engine and trans removed in place for a turbo, but sold the engine for some needed $. So, I just got an engine today at pickapart, a N47 headed L28 that was freshly rebuilt looks great. I had all my stock fuel injection left over from the old setup, and am going back to stock. First, can anyone give me DETAILED STOCK 1976 engine bay pics? top of the intake, sensors in the water outlet and starter wiring pics would be GREATLY appreciated. Ill post some pics up of the fresh motor after I drop it in tommorow Thanks in advance guys! James
  12. heres some more pictures Pete- yes its a draw through setup. The Martin kit was very well designed compared to other draw-thoughs of the same vintage (early 80's). it uses a 2 piece intake manifold, the upper section recieves fuel, then goes to the turbo inlet, then is pressurized and then fed to the lower manifold. However, there are flapper valves on the bottom of the upper manifold that are open when there is no boost, so the air/fuel charge can bypass the turbo, making the motor run like a N/A. These valves close when boost is made (pretty much eliminating lag). There is no wastegate, so boost is controlled by a recirculation valve inside the manifold. You can see the flapper valves in this pic: and some more of the car: the engine I started with:
  13. auxilary, I have a 1944 M44 mosin as well, its a DDR rifle though. just for fun, heres a link to a range video of my M44 http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e108/jamesbailey/?action=view&current=Range023.flv
  14. Thought some of you might be interested. This is the car I was building before the Z. Bought it when I was 15 for 1800 bucks as a plane jane 350/350 z28 for 1800 bucks and turned it into this monster. Rebuilt the motor, slapped a turbo on it and put a 4 speed behind it. Sold it because I couldnt afford 5-6 MPG. . It was a baaaaaaaaaddass car though. I miss it so much. not many people were used to seeing a turbo carbureted SB at my car show... Specs: 355 8:1 compression 282 degree 114 LSA .480" cam JET stage 2 custom Qjet Mallory 685 digital box Martin Turbo setup 9psi relief valve Rajay 301E10 turbo 4 speed and a 3.42 peg leg rear end made it a smoke machine enjoy : )
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