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jgkurz last won the day on June 12

jgkurz had the most liked content!

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About jgkurz

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    Slowest Indian
  • Birthday 11/17/1968

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  1. The car is on the street most of it's life. I occasionally participate in track days, autocross, and even drag racing on a rare occasion. If I find my self doing more track days I'll add more neg camber. The caster @ 3.5deg is already getting close to my front fender. I might be able to get to 4deg but that's probably the max. How much neg camber would you run for a car like mine that sees both street and track time? Just curious. This weekend I have been invited to a drift event which will be entirely new for me. I will probably be the oldest one there at 50. Ha! I don't plan on ragging on my car too much but I might enjoy sliding around a bit with some friends and family doing the same. I need new tires anyways so I figured why not give it a try.
  2. I upgraded to adjustable lower control arms and was able to fix the rear toe. Below are the new alignment specs. Drives and steers much better. Thank you for all the help on this one. Can't wait to get it to the track for some real testing.
  3. jgkurz

    240z BRE spoiler on 280z???

    Thanks for the info. I just ordered the carbon fiber spook spoiler for my 280z. Thanks for the BRE tip. I didn't even know they still existed.
  4. Hi all, I would like to add a chin spoiler to my 77 280z. I am looking at the BRE ducted style from various suppliers. These spoilers simply bolt on to the lower valence. What I am trying to understand is if lower part of a 240z valence is different than a 280z valence. I sure would like the carbon fiber version from MSA but I need to make sure it would bolt up before I buy. I know the description says 240z and 260z only, but visually I have never could see why it would not bolt to a 280z the lower valence . Are they really that different? 240Z Version 280Z Version
  5. I bit the bullet and ordered some Techno Toys rear arms and tie rod ends. I hope to have them installed so. I am also considering going back to stock steering knuckles. My car sees about 50% street duty so it might make the car more enjoyable to drive around town. Remind me, what rear toe should I put on the rear arms if I'm going with slight toe-in on the front?
  6. Do you have a link to the adjustable tie-rod ends you used?
  7. I have checked the car thoroughly but I could have missed something. If a better mount or bushing was available I have upgraded it. Back to the toe conversation. My understanding is the toe-out in the front would cause more dartiness but better turn-in at the track. Toe-in minimizes the dartiness/tramlining affect especially on the freeway. Is that not true? Regarding rear toe, any suggestions on reducing toe-in with stock lower control arms? I could loosen up the mounts and try to tighten the LCA's while prying on them.
  8. The bar should rotate smoothly in the frame bushings. It should not catch or have stiction at any point. I added shims to each mount so when I tightened the bolts, the urethane clamped the bar snuggly but no so tight the bar could not move. I also used a lubricant meant for sway bar bushings.
  9. Leon, thank you for the comments. I drove the car again tonight. The return to center is worse as well so that's another symptom. It's a little darty if that makes sense. It's slight but noticeable. I think the combination of additional steering effort + lack of RTC + dartyness make the car less fun to drive. It may be better at the track but it's a hotmess on the street. I may go back to stock caster and add a bit more toe-in and see if that helps. 1/40" toe-in is probably not enough. I can't fix the rear alignment until I get adj LCA's. I do have a 3/4" rear bar. I should have included that in my first post.
  10. Yeah, I need to get the rear alignment sorted out. I also should go to coil overs, stiffer springs, camber plates, 1in front sway, and adjustable rear LCA's. 😫 After reading all your responses and talking to some experts I think the car is acting properly. The additional steering effort is a combination of the quick ratio steering arms and the extra caster. The dull steering is probably because the suspension is actually working now and not artificially stiffened by the sway bar stiction. Below is the old alignment where the front sway bar was too tight.
  11. Good stuff Jon. Thank you. I agree that the elimination of stiction probably is now allowing my suspension to work properly. My car does occasional street duty which is why I only went with -1.3 camber in the front. The rear control arms are all stock and non-adjustable so I'm stuck with those specs until I upgrade. I probably now also need stiffer springs to dial in the car. For the rear sway bay, I use a 3/4" 240z style rear bar mounted to the uprights. My 280z bar rubbed my CV boots so I switched styles. What do you mean by "shim it back 1/2 to 1", whatever fits best."?
  12. Thank you LLave. I have read John Coffey's post which was the starting point for my alignment. I just didn't end up liking the end result. Certainly my car is the issue so I'm curious what to try if I modify the car and align again.
  13. Hi All, I need some perspective on my front end alignment. I recently installed adjustable lower control arms and TC rods and got the car aligned with specs I thought would be more suitable for track days at my local road racing venue. I don't think my specs are radical by any means, but after the alignment the steering is harder to turn and dull. I went with slight toe-in to avoiding tram-lining aka wandering on the freeway. 0.06 deg toe-in on each side = 1/38" so very slight. I have all the typical novice suspension upgrades including bump steer spacers, quick ratio steering arms, and urethane everywhere. My tires are 225/50-16 and 245/45-16. I also have lowering springs and Tokico adj struts that bring the car down about 1.5" from stock. My front sway bar is a Suspension Techniques 1-1/8" with the typical urethane bushings. Before the upgrade the two frame mounts for the sway bar were super tight and near locked. To resolve I shimmed the mounts so the bar moves freely now but without play. The previous alignment with the stock LCAs and TCs seemed to be sharper and more responsive which is disappointing considering the upgrades I just added. Maybe the sway bar moving properly softened up the suspension which caused my previous setup to be artificially stiff and more responsive albeit incorrectly? I'm just guessing at this point. My question. Is the more difficult and dull steering feel to be expected with the additional caster and neg camber? Are there any glaring issues that would be causing these symptoms?
  14. jgkurz

    Back on the road after 6 years

    The site seems to be working for me and other people I have asked to test. There is some security that might block access from outside the USA. From your signature it looks like you are in TX. PM me if you want to troubleshoot.
  15. jgkurz

    Back on the road after 6 years

    I agree. The pedestal adapter you mentioned was never may favorite. If anyone wants to buy my adapter they should talk to Kris @ KO Racing. http://www.koracing.net/. Mine was the prototype, but he could make more if the desire was there. Anyone looking at a project like this should know it's not cheap. Each build is different so I won't be providing my costs. I say this only to set the proper expectations. For me, the price was worth the results. If you want big power for a low price, best to look elsewhere.