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Zreddy

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About Zreddy

  • Birthday 10/29/1987

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    xicema17x

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    San Diego, CA

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  1. Hi Guys, This is a long shot, but anyone by any chance have the follow piece below lying around they'd like to sell? It's the stock recirculation tube that vents the stock BOV back in to the turbo inlets. I'm in need of the tube that connects both turbo inlets. Please let me know, thank you!
  2. I restored the wires to the tach to run a 6 cylinder application, however there is a note in the spec sheet Figure 3 - Note: The device that the green signal output wire is attached must be pro- grammed for four (4) cyl- inder operation. I guess I'll have to cut the orange/brown wires again and see if this works.
  3. Hi Team, I can't seem to find a precise way to install this pickup. A few questions I have... 1) My Autometer tach had the orange and brown loops wires cut, so I resoldered the orange to supposedly set it up for a 6 cylinder calibration, is this possible or is there no turning back once cut? 2) I've seen a few threads were the MSD pickup is connected to the white wire going to the injector solenoid, ECU pinout #7, and White wire going to the coil packs, what has work best for anyone used the MSD pickup? 3) If you do have the MSD pickup install, is your green signal wire connected directly to the Autometer's green signal wire? 4) Anyone with an R33 GTR engine swap? ECU Pinout# 7 wire seems to be yellow/red stripe for the R32 GTR, although my R33 GTR harness has a yellow/blue. Can anyone confirm the differences please? Many thanks!
  4. Got it running, I think I just need fuel.... LOL That's what happens when you haven't worked on the car in awhile... SMH. Thanks for the help bro!
  5. Plugs looked fine, weren't soaked. Thinking outside the box here, but when soldering wire, is there a possibly that wire could get damaged from heat?
  6. Haven't posted in a long time, for the reason I never had any problems. But recently, I put the car back together, and it ran without any trouble. Then weirdly enough, after starting the car again, the rear 3 cylinders were the only ones running?! Tested: *Compression 150psi all across *All spark plugs are firing *Fuel Injectors - the 3 rear cylinders are firing/running, so shouldn't the front 3 injectors/cylinders be firing also? I am so confused, any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated Sigh....
  7. I wasn't pleased with wiring specialties work.... I pretty much picked up a another used harness and just followed Chris Rummel's write-up, it now runs like a charm... P.S. I should of just did that in the first place. It's also good to know where and what all the wires are coming from the ECU in the long run... Lotus7 - Good luck and have fun with the project man! It took me 5 long years working on it off and on, but its all worth it in the end...!
  8. What year is your Z that you are looking to get mounts for?
  9. Nevermind.... I've figured it out. The beauty of the search engine... Lol. Although, if anyone else is wondering, here is the link that answered my question. http://www.turboneticsinc.com/install_instructions oil_drain_routing.jpg
  10. Its been awhile since i've touched the car, but I am in the final stages of getting the car started finally... Lol But, back to my dilemma about the bending of the oil return line. Here is a picture of how it turned out. I've read that the oil return line isn't pressurized, correct me if I am wrong, but I think I bent the pipe a bit too low where the oil will have a hard time returning to the block at an incline??? I feel that since the piping has a slight decline, that the oil will just sit at the lowest point and will have a hard time making it in to the block. Not sure if that makes sense, but please let me know on your thoughts on this picture. Thanks guys...
  11. Nevermind.... I figured it out. Mods, can you please close the thread... Thank you.
  12. Wondering if some of you with RB swaps have any recommendations on my push-type clutch dilemma in my 240z. So, I have followed every step in the RB/Z32 transmission swap and converted my setup to a push-type. Everything is installed, although the clutch fork seems to be stuck and the slave cylinder can't push the fork. The clutch I am using is a brand new ACT 300zx NA clutch kit. Also, I have verified that the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder work properly. Has anyone had this problem? Do people usually change the clutch master cylinder as well in these swaps? Can't think of anything else, but please chime in... Thanks
  13. I was having the same problem with my oil drain line hitting my mounts. I had to bend the oil drain pipe slightly and it now clears, although I cannot use the stock oil drain hose. What I am thinking of doing now is to use two new (oil line) hose ends or cut the stock 90 degree oil drain hose in half, and use a 90 degree double barb sided fitting to connect both. Not sure if it will work yet, but I was told it would be okay...
  14. +1 for Pat1 Makes a hell of a pan, for a bang for the buck. Better alternative to a 200zr pan.
  15. Johnc: will do if all else fails... Pat1: You're a lifesaver! Thanks again guys for your help.... She's almost finished... !
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