83turbo280zx

Willing to sell just the dizzy by itself?

UPDATE 08/01/2018 I have been through a few different machine shops trying to get these things made again, I have been out of them for a few months as my old machine shop went out of business. Currently in development with a new one, hoping to have something maybe by the end of the month. I do have some further research. It appears as stated above that the RB flywheel/350z clutch clears the T5 transmission without having to clearance the inside of the bellhousing. As far as non T5 transmissions go, I have found a solution. The RB26 is a 250mm surface area, and holds just as much power as the 350z clutch, and DOES NOT require bell housing clearancing to fit. I have verified this on my personal Z car. Another minor issue I have come across, I was told by a reputable source that the RB flywheel has an additional 1mm offset towards the front of the transmission compared to the L flywheel. I have not been able to verify this with any precise measuring equipment, HOWEVER, the gear mesh pattern on the ring gear shows the starter to be running about 1mm too shallow, which could possibly contribute to pre-mature ring gear wear. I just recently finished my engine build, and took the engine/transmission shield and lapped off the area where the starter mounts. It is approximately 1mm thick. I would advise any future purchasers of the spacer make this same modification to allow for better starter ring gear engagement. Anyways, here are some pics. I came across a chrome-moly 10lb RB flywheel, and coupled it with a Stage 4 Clutch for grins. We'll see how it does when trying to hold together E85 and big turbo Photos generously provided by Godzilla Raceworks

https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/shop/13lb-rb26-flywheel-kit-for-l-series-engines We run these on all of our build cars with the XTD Stage 3 clutch for the 350z. It requires some minor bell housing clearancing to clear the clutch cover. But you can run the 240mm 280zx turbo clutch with this flywheel, and it's fractions cheaper than the Fidanza

email sent

BUMP! Just got a new run of spacers in, 3 have been sold, have 7 remaining before submitting the next order. $40 shipped anywhere in the continental US. Will also ship international for additional cost.

It will be fine. i actually have a write up for the ZX, i also replied to your e-mail. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122445-240sx-5-speed-swap-in-280zx/?hl=%2B240sx+%2Bspeed+%2B280zx I will have to update the pictures for this thread

Looking to get some information from others who have done the GM waste spark setup. I'm trying to figured out if I can use the stock 280zx CAS wheel to control GM waste spark, the kind off the 3400s with 1 coil for 2 cylinders, so I will be adding extra BIP373s for spark B and spark C. Can i use the 280zx CAS wheel, or do I need either a Z31 CAS wheel or the DIYautotune wheel? Trying to find the simplest solution possible. I'm running MS2e 3.2.3 firmware, only have 3 wires from the stock CAS going to the MS, it appears if I did the DIYautotune wheel i would have to run the 4th wire back to the MS unit. Any insight would be greatly appreciated

Looking for a used set of turbo cv shafts, shipped to 76017 e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net, thanks

Nice! My old setup was dished pistons with a N42 head, I couldn't get more than 9 degrees timing at full boost (18psi), so once i got up to 26 degrees on this p90 i started to get nervous lol, no knock from what I can hear, motor is still together haha. I'm gonna push the boost to 25psi with water/meth and see how much more timing I can get, probably at that point a dyno will benefit hugely, only so much you can do on a street tune.

Just out of curiosity, how much timing advance are you running? I'm at 26 full advance, 18psi boost, ported, polised, deshrouded p90 with dished pistons.

Yea there is enough information within this thread for anyone toying the idea, anyone halfway competent with a drill and taps should be able to tackle this fairly easily. I might talk my buddy into doing this mod on his 240z turbo, if he does, i'll do a timing map before and after and see if it made any significant threshold increase.

For what it's worth, If anyone is uncomfortable drilling into their own head without proper measurements, and would like something as bolt in as possible, I have a spare junk cylinder head I can use to mock up and sort of produce these in small numbers if there is any interest. I could make a drilling template to tape to the head, provide a drilled and tapped rail and fittings, all you would have to do is drill the holes in the head, tap them, and put everything together.

Good point. I'm just happy to have this money pit running after 3 months down lol. I will more than likely make such a revision down the line

read through the first few pages of this thread and see if your application applies. I do alot of highway running with mine, hard highway running, it's not my daily, so when it's being used, its being abused. I saw it as a necessary modification, I also plan on using water/meth, running more boost and more timing, i figured for the cost factor it was a cheap investment. Are you going to be running carbs or megasquirt? You could see how much timing you can give it before you get spark knock, then do this mod, and see if it increases your threshold. I would imagine it would.

Yes it would be relatively easy to make on your own for anyone who would like to try this. you would obviously need a decent drill bit set, 1/4" NPT and a 1/8" NPT tap. 5 1/8"NPT to 3/8" barb fittings, a few pipe plugs, 4 1/4"npt to 1/8"npt adapter bushings, and 2 straight 1/8"npt to 3/8" barb fittings. From there, pipe thread sealant, EFI hose clamps and bulk hose I may also explore the idea of a higher pressure cap as some have done in this thread.

it's what i had in bulk at home, been using it for years with cooling system hoses, no issues. technically i said it seems to be doing it's job lol. in that aspect, coolant is consistently flowing into the rail and exiting to the t-stat housing. However, I do not have any dyno sheet to prove before and after results. I've ran 18psi consistently on my old N42 setup, but could never get more than 9 degrees max advance under full load with 93 pump gas before i would experience light spark knock. I'm sure a lot has to do with the fact that this is a p90 head with a better combustion chamber design for boost, also lower compression, and on top of that, i've lost about 3-4ccs per combustion chamber from the valve de-shroud, so according to my calculations, i should be around the 7:1 compression range. Given that i've read all 25 pages of this thread, in theory, it should make a noticeable difference compared to not doing this mod at all. Also, setting this entire thing up cost me under $50, so it was really just time, figured I would give it a try and see how it works out.

Thank you. I worried about this same dilemma, i initially mocked it up with the head on head stands on my work bench, when i installed it is when i realized just how high in the cooling system it is. The top of the rail has a port that I tapped for a pipe plug, it's originally for a FPR, so I opened that up, and bled the cooling system with a bleeding funnel and an extension which brought the funnel to the highest point in the cooling system. Once i did that, t-stat opened and all that, between the water movement from the water pump and the pressurized system, it continues to push coolant into the rail and through the thermostat housing. I have verified several times just for my own redundancy and it still pushes coolant out every time i crack the bleeder plug.

Reviving this thread to show what I came up with, So far 100 miles of testing, it seems to be doing it's job, have had zero spark knock so far, t3/t4, 440cc injectors, 26 degrees advancement at full boost so far

i have a few I can spare, $20 plus shipping costs, e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested

I have a P90 non-hydraulic cam for sale if interested, $100 plus shipping, paypal e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net if interested

I have a P90 non hydraulic cam if you're interested, they can be used with any head and solid lifters $100 plus shipping if you're interested e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

I have a t3/t4 internal wastegate flange (5 bolt),10psi actuator and v-band clamp if you're interested. Also have a 36" -4an oil feed line, let it all go for $25 plus shipping if interested, e-mail me @ sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net here is the Cl ad with pictures https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/6032416944.html

sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net

Willing to trade for that LD28 manifold you told me about? lol I have a T5 bell housing

Anyone have an LD28 intake manifold laying around? Toying some ideas in my head, have paypal, and/or turbo parts/porting services for trade. email me - sk84life1122@sbcglobal.net