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JoeK last won the day on May 20

JoeK had the most liked content!

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About JoeK

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 02/17/69

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oakland, Ca
  • Interests
    Vintage Style, Vintage Trailers, Fine Woodworking, Random Odd Facts

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4958 profile views
  1. TTT are adjustable without removal. What flares are those?
  2. Anybody take the plunge on these yet?
  3. Very nice looking. My set up is very similar to your routing, though I don't think I would have space to put the steam vent fitting in that spot. Mine is curretly lower down, about halfway along the vertical portion of the upper hose. Not sure if its in the right spot, worried I may not be able to bleed it if its not at the top like yours.
  4. Weld in Camber Plates Cover

    Pics would be grea. I need to do this too
  5. I have the GTX2 control arms. The car isn't running yet, but I can say the for perfect, look nice and stout, have plenty of adjustment, and the ladies love them. Not so sure about that last bit, but they do look fancy and of great build quality.
  6. I'll be using the Braille B3121 for my LS swap. Its a little less costly at around $230.

    Well, I haven’t figured out how to post website pics from this iPad, but the most common power steering delete belt routing I see has very little belt contact at the crank pulley. And the belt is really close to the alternator bracket bolt. Too close for my comfort, when I set mine up like that anyway. I am planning switch to the Low Alternator Mount from these guys http://lsbrackets.com/category/alternator-only-brackets/ Another solution would be an upper right mounted A/C compressor like the one that JCI sells, but that doesn’t help much if you weren’t planning to run A/C🤡

    How are you routing it now?
  9. LS3 swaps

    http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/74-gen-iii-amp-iv-chevy-v8z-tech-board/ Try this section
  10. r230 swap questions

    I’ve done the TTT R230 swap, though my car isn’t running yet. Yes, I had to trim and box the rear crossmember. Wish they mentioned that on the website, the original design did not require the trim. Tyler said they changed the design for a better driveline angle. The rear mustache bar had to be spaced back, as it didn’t clear the rear cover on the diff. I was unable to get a rear sway bar to fit. I tried 2 types, the MSA and the ST. The MSA didn't fit because of the Bad Dog rear frame rails, and the ST wouldn't clear the dogbone. I’ve seen the same picture of the twisted front mount. Don’t know what caused it but it is the only failure I’ve heard of. The TTT piece does look kinda weak
  11. SOLD!

    This is exactly what I needed about a year ago. Looks like a good deal. But can you tell me about that cable mod to the adjusters on the fronts?
  12. Project Binkey

    New episode up a few days ago
  13. Replacing dash with dash cover

    I just finished restoring my dash using the Polyvance stuff. I got most of the stuff for maybe 30% less from a company called urethane supply products, or something like that. You can search google just using the part numbers from the Polyvance stuff and you'll find this other company. It is clearly the same product with a different label. I think they had everything but the flextex. I'm very happy with how it turned out, but only time will tell how long it lasts. If you take the repair route, check very carefully for other areas that are very brittle, or spider cracks. Repair these areas too, or they will surely crack soon.
  14. LS1 240Z AC

    Resurrecting this from the past. I just received a Vintage Air Compact unit. I didn't realize there is no fresh air supply. Looks like I might be able to install the OEM fresh make up air damper, if I take it off the old heater fan motor. It would be pretty hard to get it to plumb directly into the Vintage Air unit, but would at least supply a source of fresh air to draw from when open. Anyone else do anything else like this?