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ericbauer

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About ericbauer

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  1. A similar engine build was used on my 1970 hakosuka - although this specific one is not rated for 400hp Seat of the pants would guesstimate mid 200s. Anyways, I thought I'd throw up a couple detailed pics to add to this thread The build was done by RHFactory in Nagoya - they were pretty well known for L6 builds but the financial meltdown of 2008 did them in - they are now out of business The PO of the car had all this done - I'm the first US owner of the car & have had it 3 years now. Very quickly early on I had to tear it down and refresh it with new rings / bearings - it's been faultless since. 3096cc N42 head & block 89mm bore 1.2mm thick headgasket with a 90.5mm bore V07 diesel crank L24 lightened rods Flat top cast pistons 2.7cc valve relief and 33.5mm pin height N42 cyl head heavily re-worked to 37cc with giant 42mm IN ports & match ported to intake manifold I had Rebello flow test it and he confirmed that in his opinion it was garbage until you got to really high revs - then it sang I never got a full print out / report from him Aftermarket cam I had the cam measured by Isky - I'll have to get you those specs at a later date as I don't remember them by heart. Power comes on after 4k rpm and runs strong up to 7500 - 7750rpm Mikuni 44PHH S5 triple carbs with unknown jet bodies, and 230 main air / 210 main jet / 62.5 pilots / and some hand ported venturis that were 34mm when new (Excessive, right? lol...) Ignition is an MSD7AL2 with an 8500rpm rev cut pill (Funny how the Japanese want US parts, and the rest of the world wants Japanese parts ... ) 12:1 CR by my math Mystery jet bodies 42mm IN ports OS Giken TS2- twin plate clutch Unknown mfg 6-2 stainless. The OD of each pipe at the bottom flange is 50mm. Exhaust is twin 50mm pipes running all the way back I removed PO header wrap and had it JetHot coated instead Kameari makes big port (41mm) IN/EX gaskets for this application The lightened L24 rods Work of art! Cast (Nissan bowtie) piston - looks A LOT like the Kameari street unit ... not sure if it is or not Everything balanced Anyways, hope that helps anyone looking to duplicate something similar ... It makes all the right noises - you can hear it sing here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LWWS4SsgaE https://vimeo.com/41685762
  2. That's too easy ... ok thx John -e
  3. Hi all Can someone post up a pic or a p/n of the right kind of plier I need for the stock S30 half shaft rubber boot metal straps? I'm not sure what they would look like or be called - thank you for your help -e
  4. Hi all Can someone confirm for me if the 8 bolts along the perimeter of the R180 diff cover case are M12 x 1.5 x 20mm long ? Or are they M12 x 1.25 ? Thanks in advance -e
  5. Hi ac240z - I don't need a whole new R180 Hi zguy240 - I just bought one from 88dangerdan, thank you though, sounds like you would have been very near to me ... -e
  6. Hi I am looking for an R180 diff cover. Do you have one for sale? Please email me - thank you -e
  7. Hi all What's the latest on the status of these headlight lenses? I broke one of my Nissan original ones yesterday ... &%$# ... Not happy about that... -e EDIT: Found a replacement set of lenses - so I'm good for now...
  8. I've got spark ! Well at the coil at least... I had forgotten you could test an MSD unit for spark the way it's described in the instructions Matt sent above Unplugged distributor, shorted green and purple wires together, touched the coil lead to ground = big meaty spark ! So it is the distributor after all, as I initially thought... bummer... getting a '80 ZX with the E12-80 module now. -e
  9. So here's where I am at: Original ignition that came with the car (and had been running prior to engine rebuild) is: Nissan p/n 22100-p8003 (80s R30 Skyline L20 Turbo) distributor that had been modded by prior owner with an optical trigger (three wires: switched power & two signal wires hooked up to green & purple signal wires on MSD7AL2) (It uses the same cap and rotor as 280ZX Turbo) MSD7AL2 - recently tested and cleared by MSD as fully functional HVC Pro Power coil specifically for MSD 7 boxes - I bought this new about a year ago I have constant 12V at the MSD box I have switched 12V at the MSD box when I turn the ignition key to the right point I have continuity between the MSD box and the coil + and coil - wires I have some voltage coming out of the blue and green wire connections at the MSD box (7.xV and 9.xV) I have switched 12V at the corresponding wire coming off the distributor the ground wires at the block (one on front cover below distributor, one on head by cyl 1 sparkplug) are nice and tight the neg wire off the battery is securely grounded to the sheetmetal The plugs are new The plug wires check out just fine When starting the car the engine turns freely, there is gas, but no spark When starting the car there is no voltage at the coil When I swap everything out to the alternate ignition from my track car (kameari distributor, new MSD coil, same plugs, same plug wires) - it fires I've tried swapping coils and it did not make a difference on the original ignition, still no spark. I'm guessing it has to be the distributor on the original ignition? Do you concur?
  10. I should add that mechanically I am certain that distributor driveshaft is right at cyl #1 on compression stroke absolutely positive about that... Let me also ask a different question if you don't mind... I'm thinking about just swapping in the ignition from my other Datsun onto this car. The ignition on the other car is aftermarket, it has its own distributor and ignition control module, it works with any coil. There's a simple plug from the distributor to the ignition control module, and there's two wires from the ignition control module that go to the coil (+ and -) If I just swap all those over, do I need any other stock wiring going to the coil for the car to work? I know I would need a wire coming off of coil neg to act as a signal for the tach, but i can drive without a tach if i have to is there anything else required to just get the engine running?
  11. Hi guys I got everything back together on the car. Mechanically everything checks out and I'm real happy with it. However I must admit that I am electrically challenged. Can someone please help me with a step - by - step of how and what to check? It's probably something hopelessly obvious but like I said I've never been good with engine electrical... Car has a MSD7AL2 Car was running before engine rebuild Out of curiosity I sent the MSD7AL2 to MSD while the engine was in pieces and they said it was A-Ok - nothing wrong with it Before engine rebuild car had a MSD Pro Power Coil that had a loose connection I replaced it before the engine rebuild with a Pro Power HVC Coil - car ran great with new coil Distributor is an electronic Nissan distributor from an 80s model car - no points MSD7AL2 connections are relatively simple +12V to the battery - I've checked there is battery voltage at the MSD7AL2 ground - checked that too an orange wire that goes to coil positive a black wire that goes to coil negative a wire that goes to switched ignition green and blue wires that go to distributor The wiring connections / colors are printed on the MSD7AL2 box so all these wires are in the right place Battery has voltage Starter spins the engine No spark I've pulled plugs, put one plug in the longest spark plug wire, balanced it on the shock tower bolt, no visible spark as I am cranking the engine Before I start pulling out this ignition and put in the one from the other car, what can i check? Thanks for your help guys! -e
  12. I believe TonyD was referring to the actual honing finish pattern on the cyliner walls, as in how they are sanded / in what overlapping directions - the FSM is pretty specific, so are ring manufacturers.
  13. Hi TonyD Maybe I wasn't clear, so I'll restate: When I bought the car it showed 150 across all six It seemed a low number at the time, and a leak down test was performed which showed rings were leaking Car came with no history so it was impossible to know how long or how recently the 12:1 high comp stroker had been built I enjoyed the car thoroughly until end of July last year, that's when it started to feel like it was losing power - redid comp test and found all six in the 95 - 110 psi that's when i decided to tear it apart... anyways yeah... moot point now! lol...
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