blackwidow

If you are referring to the 20 psi quoted earlier, it should raise to what's needed when it has the pressure regulator in line.

Hey guys I just got a '97 Ford Expedition XLT AWD/4x4. It has 217,000 on the od and a dent on lower passenger side. Power everything, cloth interior, cruise, cd player. A/c and heater work great and has hook ups for third row sating but I don't have the bench for the third row. Has a tow hitch on the rear, the model for electric brakes, and seems to sit higher than a normal explorer. It's basically a good work What I am looking for is a 240z in original orange with a clean body very minimal rust. Will do trades plus cash or trades and you give me some cash depending on condition of your Z. Just hit me up with what you got. I am in lower Alabama and don't mind traveling. Have clean and clear title in hand. You can hit me up on here, my e-mail widomkr94t@yahoo.com, or text/call me at 334-596-6699...... Thanks

Delete please

Hello there, I have a 1989 Supra with a Chevy 350 motor with a th400 automatic transmission installed. The car is in great condition and runs excellently. The 350 is a TBI motor with clean oil and custom intake system. The transmission is a TH400 auto with a bump shifter, but the original clutch setup is still in the car if you wish to switch back to an manual tranny. The radiator is an aftermarket 3 row aluminum unit. I have had no problems with the car over heating with this installed. The interior is in excellent condition with the exception of the dash is cracked. The car was painted blue at some point and had the moldings removed and the filler is starting to show so it needs a little work on the outside. Has a custom exhaust that comes out the back through a flowmaster exhaust. The exhaust was professionally done and makes the car sound great. There are a couple things that don't work like the speedo, a/c and heater. The speedo needs and adapter linkage and the A/C needs a compressor and custom lines. The heater can be made to work no problem with a outlet on the water pump. The car has a nice pioneer CD player in it that works perfectly. Overall the car is in great shape and all the hard work has already been done with the motor swap, and it runs and drives great. I would like $3500 or trade possibly. Throw me some offers. If you would like to set up a time to look at the car or have any other questions you can contact me through the e-mail on here, or you can call or message me at 1-334-5 nine 6-six 6 nine 9 Thanks

Very aware the tranny is gonna have to come out rodger, but I am not sure when I would be able to get to it and was hoping to have the parts ready when I took it out so I could get it on the lift and back down the same day. Was just looking for some back-up since it's been a while since I have had to diagnose anything really. I stoped being a mechanic years ago in search of cleaner/greener pastures if you will. At any rate thanks for the replys and suggestions.

Ok I just wanted some quick back-up. I just bought a 85 300zx turbo. The guy told me that it won't shift while the car is running, and that if you do grind it into gear that it will konk out. Basically like the clutch will not disengage properly. So first things in my head are slave/master cylinder, or clutch. So I get under the car and the slave cylinder seems to be moving the fork the proper distance, plus when I shine a flashlight in the hole where the fork is I can see it moving and depressing the pressure plate tongs/springs. There is also what looks to be fiberglass shavings in there( which I'm guessing is from a worn out clutch) Now then I'm kinda just asking can a clutch wear out so bad that it won't disengage? Or is there anything that will cause this in the tranny? So here is the rundown Will shift when car is off. Won't shift when car is running. Hydraulic's all seem to be working fine. Clutch fork moves freely and presses down on pressure plate. I just don't want to buy clutch parts ahead of time only to not need them. Thanks

Have you seen mine? Will need a little work, but would make a great daily. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96591-alabama-1977-280z-needs-work-tons-of-extra-parts-1750/

I have a great condition P90a head and probably 3 or 4 different cams to choose from including one turbo cam. If you are interested I will take $150 plus shipping for the head and the cam of your choice. Currently the cam towers are off and will need to be reinstalled with the cam. I can probably ship it greyhound to save on shipping. Just let me know. Thanks

I either have a 3.3 or a 3.6 longnose R200. It's been recenly gone through and cleaned with a new cover gasket put on. I'll take $75 plus shipping, which will probably have to be greyhound or something to keep costs down. Let me know if you want me to check for you. Thanks

Sent you a message.

No offense, but you should probably start your own thread with these questions so as not to take over the op's thread.

I don't know how you plan to use your car, but I would want a lower 5th for the rear you just got.

If it was me I would go from the battery.

I just saw that page not to long ago in a search. from what I read if you guys could find some S15 output shafts or equivilent you could use the mm adapters cause i believe they are 6 bolts.

Not sure if you saw mine or not. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153258

Not sure if you saw mine, but it might be too far away for you. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153258

glad your up and running, good luck

did you even check to see if the injectors are firing? No need to replace them if they are fine. If they are not firing when you try to crank then take a 5 volt battery and jumper across the injector on and off, you should hear them firing or making a clicking noise. take the spark plugs out and do all the injectors one at a time while you have something like a rolled up peice of paper in the spark plug hole. If the paper is wet when you do the battery test then you have a wiring problem most likely. I believe that there are only a couple things that can make the injectors not fire in the system. also do what Pharao said to make sure everything is correct.

I am guessing you are using EFI. So check to see if your injectors are firing. You can use a test light or the screwdriver method. If fuel is getting to them but they are not pulsing you will get no fuel in the cyl. And just in case that is the problem check to make sure you have secured all ground points back where they should be, and they are clean so they have good contact.

You sure, and can you explain why for me?

Don't forget cams and valvetrain goodies.

I believe that would depend on if the piston forces on the end were working with the harmonics or against it. Same with the center. Maybe the combustion process in the center, in this case, was working with the harmonics to cause the problem.

Maybe you can get a custom one made for your app. Possibly Ati, fluidamper, or bhj dynamics. I think the latter carries rebello dampers. Good luck man:burnout: Hey helix I will send ya something if ya want. Pm me.

Well if I recall correctly torsional vibrations get worse as they move further away from the load, or flywheel end of the crank in this case. So I am guessing by removing 4mm off that end of the crank you just changed how bad the harmonics get at the blancer end of the crank. I can't really tell you how much that just helped or even if it changed the RPM at which the resonant harmonics happen(which i don't think it would because you havent changed one of the variables which matter to harmonics, cept maybe a little weight at the end), but I can tell you it was done for the right purpose. Hopefully? Either way a good damper is needed for sustained useage at those RPM's. Edit: just read the above posts again. What helix said. Also were the bearings like Josh's or pushed out on the sides?